As much as I know I do have cats, but maybe it's a good idea to check as I never did before. Actually plums is right - I do drive around 15'000km per year so it would be about 15-20l of engine oil which is much cheaper than fixing the problem. I guess there is nothing terrible to happen because of driving the car like that (refilling engine oil from time to time like a typical owner of BMW )

Yes the car is running on LPG and it's one of the first nikesil engines... thanks God - I don't have or at least I didn't had problems with compression. Nevertheless I have problems with the idle (car shaking slightly when stopped) and unstable work of the engine on cold weather (below -15C) which I believe is related to an air leak problem... but I'm still looking to find it.

Well I believe that in about an year I'll change the car... this was my first jag and I had a lot things to learn about buying, owning and driving a cat I'm 99% confident that my next car will be XJR from the latest models in 2002-2003 so there is no sence to invest more money in this one.

 

Is this what I need: JAGUAR V8 1997-2007 ,VALVE STEM OIL SEAL SET (32) | eBay

Because if it is, the price is more than acceptable - US $40.00 for the entire set of 32 seals. The part number the seller has given is: NCE2528AC

My concern is that in the description it says "1998-2007 XJ8 4.0L & 4.2L"... first of all - I don't see my 3.2V8... and most of all - is there a 4.2 engine for this years?!

 

The 3.2, 4.0 and 4.2 are members of the same engine family. The 4.2 debuted in 2003/2004.

Best to check part numbers carefully though.

 

Unfortunately after checking deeply in the JTIS I found this (my VIN is 8367**):



But again - is there an actual difference between this two items? Because I can't find any information online for EAZ1314??!

 

Guys, still need your help with the valve seals... Any idea over my previous question:

Is there an actual difference between NCE2528AC and EAZ1314? Because I can't find any information online for EAZ1314 and based on the information from the JTIS I need exactly them... Worst - when searching on Google there are only 6 results, one of which is my current thread

 

Sorry for being so annoying with repeating the same question, but this morning I tried to ask at my local Jaguar dealer for this valve seals and they couldn't answer my question... they checked the JTIS (the same I have installed on my PC) and the told my I need the EAZ1314 based on VIN. When I asked them for price they told that this part doesn't exist in their registry and they can't help me! SO F***CKIN UNBELIEVABLE!!! (excuse me)

I asked everywhere I could about this valve seals and nobody seems to know if NCE2528AC and EAZ1314 are different parts (if they do have any differences in size or whatever else) or just different part numbers of one and the same part!

So - please... if anyone can find information about this - I'll be most grateful because the problem with the oil burning is getting worst...

 

At this point, your best bet might be to contact one of the more reliable UK based suppliers, tell them exactly what vehicle you have, and ask them what part number they would supply. Superceded part numbers are common in the business and only the suppliers have ready access to the information.

Knowing that you are located in a country where shipping and returns are difficult, very few people are likely to step forward and propose a part number as being authoritatively correct for your engine. Additionally, the 3.2L was not sold in North American markets so most of the members will not have seen one.

 

Plums, that's exactly what I did... I contacted a UK Jag dealer and he confirmed what I expected - it's one and the same part, it's just that the old part number was based on some old Daimler designation and around 1999 they decided to unify all part numbers. That's why both NCE2528AC and EAZ1314 means one and the same part.

Yesterday I ordered a set of valve seals from US and I expect them to arrive in two weeks. Hope this will fix the problem, because it's getting worst with every day... This morning the smoke behind the car was so much and so dense that I couldn't even see a car in any of the mirrors when accelerating with more than 2500 RPM.

Another thing that bothers me is that two days ago, when I changed oil and filters I noticed a huge amount of oil on the bottom of the throttle body. I wanted to clean the entire tube for the air from the filter up to the throttle, to check for cracks and to renew the rubber seals of the tube (I was worry that there could be air leaks) and then I noticed all this oil... I'm sure that it didn't came from the air tube because there wasn't so much oil residues inside. Besides - the air filter was clean - no oil spots on it.

Then I decided to check if there are other pipes that could bring oil on the bottom of the throttle and found out that the pipe of the part load breather is just on the right position. I'm still not sure if this is the case, but can it be?! An year ago I enlarged a little bit the whole because I had oil on the air filter... but now it seems that it's "bleeding" oil from there... Any suggestions?

 

There is a metal gauze oil trap under the holes on the valve covers. Sometimes owners mistakenly remove them. Additionally, perhaps you have enlarged the hole a bit too much and need to put in a restrictor.

 

I'm absolutely sure - there is nothing under the hole on the left bank (where the part load breather is) - if I light it I can see the interior under the covers. When the new valve seals arrive I'll have to remove the covers so I'll be able to check this gauze oil trap and rebuild it if necessary...

Do you have any idea on how to temporary restrict the oil to pass through it?

 

The hole is only supposed to be the size of a small drill .. other threads contain the exact size. How is it that you can see the interior then? Maybe you dropped the restrictor altogether in the last while and that is why it is suddenly even worse. During your trip it would have been coming loose, and it has finally dropped out of the cover and is flopping around somewhere.

 

While waiting for my new seals (tracking number is showing that they are in Chicago right now) I decided to do something with the part load breather. So Friday last week I disconnected the hose and plugged it with a plastic screw to ensure that there won't be any air leak into the throttle body. At the other end - the plastic nozzle I installed a handmade filter (two crossed sheets of paper from a new broken oil filter) to check if there will be oil coming out.

The result is unbelievable - the car started to work as smooth as never before! After 100km of driving now the car doesn't smoke at all - neither on drive or at cold start. RPM are stable, the old shaking on idle disappeared... It seems that I even didn't need to change the valve seals but I'll do it anyway as I already have ordered them.

The only side effect of what I did with the breather is something very strange. While staying in position (car doesn't move) holding the brake at either D or R the RPM are stable. When I switch to Neutral or Parking the RPM are dropping immediately instead of increasing a little bit and occasionally the engine stalls. Any suggestions?

 

Maybe a hard reset?

 

The part load breather is designed to introduce *some* air into the intake.

When in "D" or "R", the ECM knows to increase the fueling and air slightly to keep the engine from bogging. But, with the part load breather plugged it does not do it properly.

The orifice in the part load breather is a calibrated size. You should really look at the orifice and see whether it is the proper size.

You could possibly drill a very small hole in your "plastic screw" that you are using to plug the hose to reintroduce the air lost from the part load breather as an experiment to see if it improves. If it does, then you are back at figuring out the orifice in the part load breather at the valve cover.

 

+1 on that to reset the trims
Sounds as if Plums was plum on!
On another post Brutal said
Thats why you use a small drill bit 3/32nds by hand to cut through deposits, and yes they do totally plug, and yes there is a metal plate inside the cam cover to keep oil splash from getting to the orifice and really causing oil consumption issues
so it really is a small hole AND you should be seeing the metal plate not any 'works'
3/32" is just over 2 mm - you could probably make your own orifice if the plate is present.

 

Thanks for the advices. I'll try to make a small whole to insert little air through the whose. Nevertheless I expect the new valve seals to arrive next week so as soon as I open the cam covers I'll inspect the case with the part load breather and if it's necessary - I'll remake the whole and the shield inside.

I'll keep you guys in touch + some photos to help other people...