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Decided it was time for new rotors and pads. This by far is the easiest car to do that on of anything I've ever owned. It was even quicker to do than on my trusty Corvette. And the parts were ridiculously cheap compared to my MBZ.
I did this hose improvement over the OEM corrugated plastic hoses to chase and eliminate elusive those vacuum leaks... but posted it in a more relevant section of the forum ...
Took my 270# son and his 250# Master Chief using -- sometimes two at once -- BFHs to get them off . . and that was after soaking everything in Blaster . . . but an easy install.
Replaced my SC to V8 plate gasket, thinking it was the source of a hissing noise I was getting in that area. Nope. After replacing that, i tried pulling the part load breather connector from the valve cover and blocking that off with my finger... When I blocked off the hose with my finger with the engine running, the hissing stopped. Guess it's just a part load breather hose noise I never noticed before, or the hairline cracks in the driver's side valve cover are getting worse and letting some air in (may explain the slightly high LTFT). Still not sure if that's related to the hissing I sometimes notice at moderate speed, moderate throttle sometimes...
At least that SC duct seal will likely outlast the car now.
Run a smoke test and see if there any vacuum leaks? On my car, bought and installed new tires on it. Toyo Proxes T1 Sport. Tried hard to find wheels, but no dice. Found some xjr100 wheels, but guy didn't want to come down from $3k. Figured i'd try and put new wheels at the same time.
Hi,
I had a pm from a member asking if I still had my Jag and if I was still on here. The answer to both is yes, however I've not really had much reason to post lately and I've been busy over the summer.
My X308 is currently parked up and out of action temporarily with a huge crack in the windscreen. Two weeks ago on our drive down to the British Motor Heritage Museum at Gaydon, I got hit by some debris and got a small 1/2 inch crack in the screen. By the time I got home it had grown to nearly 10 inches and its gotten bigger whilst the car has been parked. So unfortunately I'm stuck waiting for payday to arrange a replacement. However I'll be taking the Jag into the workshop in September for a service and to address a few things before winter comes. She's going to Belgium over Christmas so needs to be in fine fettle.
I've also been playing with my other cars too, my Triumph has just got a fresh MOT and she's running well. I'll be carrying out a timing service on that car this week as soon as my new parts arrive.
I fitted a new gas cap today, wasn't getting any errors, but the original one was looking a little worn inside so I thought I should err on the safe side. Ended up getting it from Partsgeek for $30 bucks (plus shipping). (up to $54.00 + shipping other places)
Seems there are at least three different part numbers NNG5942AG,(to Vin F31537 and has a tether) NNE5942AE (from Vin 31538, no tether but not available), and NNG5942BB, (no tether and touted as fitting 1998-2008 XJ8s)
Anyway, mine ended up being a NNG5942BB, and looks exactly like my old one!
A genuine Jaguar OEM part.......made in the Czech Republic!
.
Last edited by Carnival Kid; 08-17-2018 at 08:27 PM.
Reason: typos
Hmmmm, I have owned the "Duchess" (2003 Vanden Plas) for almost 5 years (18500 miles)and the only repair I have had to make was
the fuel pump which, from an automotive engineering point of view, is strategically placed to cause ire, irritation and many hours of needless
work just to get to it. To disparage the X308 line for a single vehicle that is obviously having more than a few issues is rather unseemingly.
Beside the XKE, the X308 line is the most beautiful Jaguar to come out of Coventry. We never fail to get appreciative looks and nods whenever
we are on the road, or parked. The lines are timeless, and the power and agility is far more than adequate. Nothing else comes close in my mind.
Carnival Kid, have you found any replacement tether for your fuel cap? I've not had one since acquiring the car and I think I'll lose it one day The fuel cap, not my mind through fixing quite a few things, yet :-)
Decided that it was high time that I attempted the oil change in the transmission.
I've been getting noises coming from that area during acceleration. Hard to describe but along the lines of a whoosh, or swirling sound. I found a reference to this in the forum that mentioned it may well be due to dirty transmission oil struggling to get through a dirty filter, so I bought a replacement filter plus 7 litres of mobil LT71141 fluid. I only needed 4 litres in the end though.
After changing it, the whooshing noises have gone from all but the first gear shift from a standstill. I'm hoping it'll go completely with a few more miles.
Does anyone know why the old oil is red (or nearly brown in this case) but my new oil is amber?
There's a lot of oil left after draining it, so take care. It's also quite tricky trying to get it out from between the exhausts!
Muddy brown transmission oil. At least the pan torx bolts came out very easily after cleaning the heads out.
The gasket was brittle and snapped easily. I think it had cracked already too. Doesn't look too dirty in there though.
Old transmission oil. I think it was high time for a change
in general my impression is that these auto boxes of ours really need a proper flush job, rather than just an oil change. From the looks of things, yours was definitely due. But with the new oil in, more debris and grime might come loose. So you might want to redo it soon again.
Also, putting the box in manual gear and driving it like that for some 20-30 seconds in a fixed gear, then onto the next gear etc, will ensure you flush out as much as possible any remaining dirt and contamination.
Jeroen,
I have to say I think you're right about flushing, but having not found somewhere that I trust to properly do this, I think I'll just drain it again quite soon. It was only the noises that prompted me to go anywhere near the transmission to begin with so that's quite lucky considering. I think there's another 4 litres sitting in there?
I didn't know about using the manual gears either, so I'll try that too. Many thanks for the advice.
The worst bit about this job is the inevitable mess, but otherwise it's relatively easy.
Btw, This volvo video seems like the right idea for home flushing: https://youtu.be/EAb9p8Wph-M
Been spending all my time w/ the newly acquired Infiniti, it's now time to finally sort the rear end whine out on the trusty X308. She will be sitting pretty come Sept.
Took the Jag for it's yearly WOF (Warrant of Fitness, similar to MOT for those in the UK).
Passed with mostly flying colours... Front tyres are nearly due for replacement, which I knew, but apparently there is play in the steering rack, and it is non-adjustable, so this is going to need some attention.
I had a quick search but couldn't find much useful information about the steering racks in these. Anyone have any useful info? Hoping they're either being pedantic about nothing, or that it might just need a simple refresh (bushes etc?). Fingers crossed it doesn't actually need replacing, based on the price I found for a new one on SNG Barratt
Carnival Kid, have you found any replacement tether for your fuel cap? I've not had one since acquiring the car and I think I'll lose it one day The fuel cap, not my mind through fixing quite a few things, yet :-)
Chris, my original fuel cap does not have a tether, and neither does the replacement I got. The fuel filler compartment lid has a purpose built "slot" in it that the protrusion on the filler cap neatly fits into for temporary storage when filling.
The fuel cap with part number NNG5942AG is listed as having a tether though, and seems to be readily available.
Took the Jag for it's yearly WOF (Warrant of Fitness, similar to MOT for those in the UK).
Passed with mostly flying colours... Front tyres are nearly due for replacement, which I knew, but apparently there is play in the steering rack, and it is non-adjustable, so this is going to need some attention.
I had a quick search but couldn't find much useful information about the steering racks in these. Anyone have any useful info? Hoping they're either being pedantic about nothing, or that it might just need a simple refresh (bushes etc?). Fingers crossed it doesn't actually need replacing, based on the price I found for a new one on SNG Barratt
There's many possible sources of play... It could be outer tie rods (easily replaceable), inner tie rods (not so easy, may not be available separately), play in the steering column (if you have the old style with a bellow on the lower half, they develop play often, there's a TSB on it, 211-06), if it's the steering gear itself having play you can try to adjust the gear preload (there's a thread somewhere, think Daim wrote the post detailing adjustment).
Took the Jag for it's yearly WOF (Warrant of Fitness, similar to MOT for those in the UK).
Passed with mostly flying colours... Front tyres are nearly due for replacement, which I knew, but apparently there is play in the steering rack, and it is non-adjustable, so this is going to need some attention.
I had a quick search but couldn't find much useful information about the steering racks in these. Anyone have any useful info? Hoping they're either being pedantic about nothing, or that it might just need a simple refresh (bushes etc?). Fingers crossed it doesn't actually need replacing, based on the price I found for a new one on SNG Barratt
As already mentioned first thing is to pinpoint where the atual play comes from. I dont khave any experience (yet) with the steering on my Jlagua. But I have had penty of experience on my other classic cars. If it does turn out to be the actual steering box yuou might want try and get it overhauled by a supecialist. I have had several boxes overhauled over the years. I dont like o replace with second hand stuff. You never know and you might just buy somebody elses qprobem. Not worth the bother for smethingls critical as a steering box.
Although it wilk depend on the box I recall paying about Euro450-600 for a full overhaul. Which isnt cheap, although usually much cheaper than a new one.
Took the Jag for it's yearly WOF (Warrant of Fitness, similar to MOT for those in the UK).
Passed with mostly flying colours... Front tyres are nearly due for replacement, which I knew, but apparently there is play in the steering rack, and it is non-adjustable, so this is going to need some attention.
I had a quick search but couldn't find much useful information about the steering racks in these. Anyone have any useful info? Hoping they're either being pedantic about nothing, or that it might just need a simple refresh (bushes etc?). Fingers crossed it doesn't actually need replacing, based on the price I found for a new one on SNG Barratt
The four bolts that hold the steering rack to the sub frame can be hard to get out. Probably because the open end faces direction of travel. It does come off very easily though asides from that. Lots of penetrating spray helps as ever. Actually the really difficult bit for me was the connection to the steering column. That was seriously hard work in my case. I had the original column.
Steering rack connection to lower steering column
Steering rack jaguar x308. Gold colour bolt is a replacement.
Lower steering column jaguar x308 Original top, latest version bottom.
08-03-2018, 09:52 PM
Rubber coated and Silicone Vulcanizing Tape wrapped - XJ8 Vacuum hoses
