Hi
my battery was dead flat from lack of use ( forgot to disconnect it) and I connected a battery charger to charge it still connected in the car.
Before this I tried to jump start it with those hand held portable units which did not crank.
After charging the car still would not crank even after load testing the battery was fine.
I have tested all the power cable locations and checked for blown fuses and swapped relays to no avail.
i have been able to crank the engine by jumping the starter relay so starter is not the problem. Will not start with key on.
All dash lights are normal with no fault codes on dash or code reader.
I have reset the fob as per procedure and works fine as before.
Battery has been replaced and cranks the best it has ever cranked.
I get a faint click from under the passenger dash when activating the starter by the key.
It appears that the BCM is not accepting the key code to allow a start.
looking on the forums people have not had any luck in resolving some of these start issues and have elected to part with there cars.
looking forward to any advice on getting this resolved
regards
Jim

 

If your car has PATS and is choosing not to start then it will use the PATS light to flash a code. Would also log a (non-emissions) code I expect.

 

If your key code wasn't being accepted, I don't believe it would allow the motor to turn over. This sounds like what JagV8 says or a bad CPS?

Have you tried reading to see if there are any codes?

 

No codes present with my scanner.
it only cranks when you remove the start relay and use a jump wire. This at least proves the starter is ok

 

Ahhh, ok, I misread that then about the new battery. So then yes, I'd be suspect of the the key code.

Just off hand, have you tried starting it in neutral? I'm wondering if the park switch may have an issue.

 

Charging the battery while connected to the car poses a risk of damage to some of the car's electronics, especially if a powerful unregulated quick charger is used. What kind of charger did you use? Does your charger have an ammeter and a voltmeter and, if it does, what were the readings during the charge?

 

Battery was charged with a small two amp unit.
Took the car to a repair shop who can read the codes and reset them today.
code P1260 security input up and cannot be reset.
securty led flashes when car is locked with the fob and does not flash when unlocked with the fob.
Looks like a visit to a jaguar specialist to see if they can reset the code.

 

This is another risk that I read about - if the battery is charged while still connected, there is a risk of the key (not the fob) transponder code stored in the key module being corrupted. This is especially a risk if a totally discharged battery, still connected to the car, is charged. Ordinary battery chargers do not have a smooth filtered DC output but an output with a lot of "ripples". This is not so much of a problem if the battery has some charge as it will filter out the ripples but, if the battery is totally dead, the ripples will reach the modules and screw-up something, like the memories. Hopefully, a Jag workshop which has the VCM/IDS tool will be able to fix it.

 

I see P1260 as a security input malfunction code.

See workshop manual...

 

As JagV8 states.... P1260 Vehicle immobilized Invalid ignition key, immobilizer system fault
So you'll have to get it reprogrammed. If you do a site search just using P1260, you'll get quite a list to review and most have reprogrammed.

 

I agree about not charging a dead flat battery insitu regardless of what is said to the contrary in some of the forums.
Local jaguar dealer cannot help as they don’t have the tools for the older jaguars which is a poor response and they suggest a independent jaguar specialist in older cars.
I will update the final fix after I can get a specialist to see if they can reprogram the car.

 

Sorry I did not answer your question on the gear selector switch.
I have tried to start in both neutral and park and jiggling without success and I just get a boop boop sound

 

Depending where you are, it might be easier to switch out the SCLM or security locking module, but you will need a model year/regional programmed like for like exact part to replace it.
Even then I'm not even sure this would get the car started, someone else more knowledgeable on the subject could clarify.
The SCLM is located in the trunk fusebox and it's program code is located on the VCATS list taped to the rim of the spare wheel well.

 

How can it be a poor response if you didn't read the responses stating they used a local lock smith with the tools?

 

The poor response I was referring to was that a main dealer could no provide any help other than referring to an independent. Not sure what you are getting at with the locksmith comment as the dealer did it say this. I arranged for a lock smith to check the key and he could read the key in his shop which he said was ok. When he came out to put his tool on it would not read back to my model jaguar so he could not check the key transponder on the steering column

 

What most probably happened was that the recognition (code, memory), of the transponder inside the key, by the Security and Locking Control Module (SLCM) was corrupted in the module. This module is located under the fuse box in the boot. What is at the key switch inside the steering column is just a simple loop antenna (nothing to go bad there) that enables transmission of signals between the key transponder and the SLCM.

The only way to try to fix the problem in the SLCM is to reconfigure it to your key(s) using the VCM/IDS software. Try contacting Mr. Cameron at cambo@oldjaguar.com (he is in Sidney), he will certainly be able to help (the only problem could be how far you are from Sidney).

 

My apologies, I took that as I had somehow given you a poor response.

 

I am not over the line it is a security issue with the module in the boot. My reasoning here is that the security system works with the key or the fob. The led does flash normally when locked and is not on when unlocked.
I have booked in to a specialist in Melbourne tomorrow (3 hr tow).
They can reset the security input code but also don’t feel it is the module if all the other security functions are working.
The last thing I am going to try is the wiring is fragile in the steering column and may have a break due to the movement of the column every time you get in.

 

UPDATE:
Well it has been with a quality independent jaguar specialist and his auto electrician for 4 weeks with no knowledge of what needs to be done to rectify the no crank issue. I just wonder how many of these cars just get junked as the fault cannot be found cost effectively.

 

Update 25-7-19
picking up my car from the well respected jaguar independent out of Melbourne that cannot resolve my no crank issue.
I have purchased my own jaguar IDS and SDD system and will have another go myself starting with internal inspection of the ECU.
The lack of feedback on others in a similar situation leads me to believe that these cars just get junked in other locations around the globe which I can understand when they are so cheap overseas compared to Australia.
I will continue to update this post as I go.