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That's really bad luck the sort I get
Just for the knowelge, this question is based.
It seems strange that you would actually get restricted performance as one would think there is enough fuel and pressure using 1 pump.
Could it be that the electrical system picks up on the faulty current and activates a restricted performance mode?
when in actual fact there is no sound mechanical reason that the engine should not run to its full potential?
It seems strange that you would actually get restricted performance as one would think there is enough fuel and pressure using 1 pump. Could it be that the electrical system picks up on the faulty current and activates a restricted performance mode? when in actual fact there is no sound mechanical reason that the engine should not run to its full potential?
One (standard) pump is not enough when SC engine has higher demand for fuel. In the case one pump fails, the ECU is programmed to restrict the engine performance up to the fuel demand that one pump can cover. If the restriction was not imposed, there would be a risk of running lean which could cause serious engine damage.
If one installed a higher flow primary pump (would have to be almost twice the flow of the standard pump, a minimum 1.7 times I should think), one could somehow try to full the ECU that the second "pump" is running and avoid the restricted performance. But what is the point? Having two pumps is much better as you will not be stranded if one fails; you can still drive the car at reasonable speeds (140-160 km/h I think) and get home.
One pump is enough to run a 6.3 litre mercedes and you can have it supercharged just seams like a potential flaw in design
other than being able to have limp mode, how often does a fuel pump fail plus there is the addition monoring ,electronis assoated with that
Xjack
Changed the Tensioners today here are 2 Photos
when you press the crook side gets stick then push harder and the piston goes down
it doesn't look very work so the timing guides might be ok I will put a camera down and have a look while I am here
soon as gaskets arrive we will give it another go
They doesn't look too used, mine were 2nd generation and shown same wear as yours when pulled and same apply for primaries, they were all in surprisingly good state
just don't mistake left with right tensioner when putting them back in (they have the mark L and R) one side does as guide other tensions on the slack side of the chain and don't forget to crank engine for quite long time with fuel pump relay out to build up pressure in them especially that your car stand for long and all oil drained!!
This is from the quick links page produced by Racing Green
I have been using 94 Octain with 10% Ethanol
My Vin # SAJJJALG3CR820012
Replacement Eng # 980217-1611
Where Nikasil was not fully tested, however, was in relation to cheaper fuels where the relatively high sulfur
content allied to short periods of use of the engine caused the surface coating to break down. This breakdown in
the Nikasil coating was due to acids being created through the combination of sulfur and water in the combustion
process and was exacerbated if the engine did not achieve normal operating temperature. In severe examples, the
compression is lowered through leakage past the piston rings to the point that the engine will not start.
The Jaguar test to diagnose this problem involves measuring the combined blow-by of all 8 cylinders and should the
blow-by be greater than 50 litres per minute with the engine at idle and correct temperatures then the engine will
require replacing.
Once the problem became apparent Jaguar instigated dealer tests and replacement of the badly affected engines
under warranty subject to service history and mileage. From 2000 model year on cars came equipped with
the more traditional solution to bore construction and cast iron liners have again deemed the answer. This is
the practical solution to the problem but the loss of the Nikasil lined engine and its clear advantages over the
conventional approach is a great shame. Current fuels would probably have meant that this problem would never
have become apparent.
The vehicles and chassis ranges that have Nikasil lined bores that may suffer from this problem are:-
XK series VIN range 001036-042775
XJ V8 series VIN 812256-878717 Mine 820012
Not sure about Australia, but i think they dropped sulfur in gas quite some time ago, generally it is believed that nikasil is safe now with the low sulfur petrol
I think I'd better take out the E10 in the tank and put in some Premium Fuel Here In Australia
E10
> Octane rating: 94-95 RON
> Sulfur content: up to 150 parts per million
> What is it: Regular (91 RON) unleaded petrol which has been blended with up to 10% ethanol, a form of alcohol.
> When to use it: E10 should only be used if your car is driven regularly, as the alcohol can combine with water and then settle in your fuel tank which may damage your engine. Regular travel prevents this process.
> Will it damage my car: E10 is for use in newer model cars. Follow the vehicle manufacturer’s instructions as it may cause damage to some older engines, particularly rubber components.
> E10 should not be used as a substitute for premium unleaded fuel unless it is recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
Regular Unleaded Petrol
> Octane rating: 91 RON
> Sulfur content: up to 150 parts per million
> What is it: Regular unleaded petrol – the standard fuel for vehicles in Australia since the 1980s.
> When to use it: All the time if the fuel is suitable for your vehicle – check your handbook.
> When not to use it: If your vehicle requires higher octane fuel.
> Will it damage my car: It shouldn’t if your vehicle manufacturer specifies it to run on 91 octane fuel.
Premium Unleaded Petrol (PULP)
> Octane rating: 95 RON
> Sulfur content: up to 50 parts per million
> What is it: This is the ‘standard’ premium petrol available in Australia. It is also the minimum unleaded petrol available in many European countries.
> When to use it: If your vehicle requires it – many European and performance cars require this fuel as a minimum.
> When not to use it: If your vehicle does not require this fuel.
> Some vehicles are technically able to improve performance or fuel consumption using this fuel but it is unlikely this will offset the increased cost.
> Will it damage my car: It shouldn’t, unless your vehicle requires 98 octane fuel.
Ultra Premium Unleaded Petrol
> Octane rating: 98 RON
> Sulfur content: up to 50 parts per million
> What is it: This is the flagship fuel for most retailers and is the most heavily marketed petrol. It typically has more detergents and additives in it than other petrol.
> When to use it: If your vehicle requires 98 octane fuel – this is only the case for some high performance cars.
> When not to use it: If your vehicle does not require this fuel. Although this fuel may lower your fuel consumption it is unlikely t his will offset the increased cost.
> Will it damage my car: It shouldn’t.
Evolution of sulfur content in petrol in Spain, i expect similar numbers worldwide
But of course for peace of mind you can fill the tank with the better quality gas,
Officially, just clearing Dutchy doubts about effects of current gas quality on nikasil engine and probability of failure of his due to sulfur but secretly collecting information for the new bestseller "Resurrecting stubborn V8s, Zen and how to not loose the patience"
Maybe? But our friend from Oz is beginning to remind me of my very favorite TV character -- from New South Wales, barrister Cleaver Green (on Netflix: RAKE) -- who keeps digging no matter how deep his hole.
Frustrated -- as I am sure he is -- to see the car running. Many times a day, I check this thread hoping to see it firing off successfully -- but no, another system taken apart . . . before anything is correctly and carefully reassembled and tested. With most of the systems being examined or ensuing research having little to do with the base issue!
Love the Rants keep em coming
when the gaskets arrive it will be together
and you know what.!
I think the whole problem was that sticky butterfly causing flooding.
I wonder if you have a combination of repeated flooding and bore wash. Try adding more oil to cure bore wash, as well as disconnecting fuel pump relay to ensure it is disabled when cranking to mix oil into the cylinder (my throttle shows 90% when to the floor on scan tool). The engine sounds very different once it gets compression.
I had to use almost an ounce of oil to each cylinder and let it sit overnight with oil in the cylinders before it finally fired up again once I reconnected the fuel pump relay. These cylinders are angled so that maybe the top part doesn't get oiled well with just a teaspoon of oil.
Assume 5 minutes of very thick white smoke when it does fire up, but it is glorious!
This is from fresh experience...I just spent yesterday doing this multiple times and adding increasing amounts of oil... I almost gave up. And of course, keep a charger on the battery.
Yes Madijag
I think a procedure like that would be a good idea on first, as Xjack pointed out I have to crank the engine quiet a bit to get oil into the Tensioners with out the fuel pump in so.
may as well add oil 1 ounce you reckon about 30 mils
when I did it before I put only 10mil in about 1/3 rd ounce
it seems a bit of a job to get a 1/4" copper pipe or something in to get to the top of the cylinders, I'll work something out
so I will kill 2 birds with 1 stone the compression and the tensioners
at the moment waiting for cam gaskets to arrive then I will do a compression test
the throttle body highhorse works well now it has been cleaned can't do any more than replace temp & CPS so as far as pulling apart and not servicing bits is not true.
I wonder if you have a combination of repeated flooding and bore wash. Try adding more oil to cure bore wash, as well as disconnecting fuel pump relay to ensure it is disabled when cranking to mix oil into the cylinder (my throttle shows 90% when to the floor on scan tool). The engine sounds very different once it gets compression.
I had to use almost an ounce of oil to each cylinder and let it sit overnight with oil in the cylinders before it finally fired up again once I reconnected the fuel pump relay. These cylinders are angled so that maybe the top part doesn't get oiled well with just a teaspoon of oil.
Assume 5 minutes of very thick white smoke when it does fire up, but it is glorious!
This is from fresh experience...I just spent yesterday doing this multiple times and adding increasing amounts of oil... I almost gave up. And of course, keep a charger on the battery.
If you read back on post #185 and the big money receipts, the new motor got new liners (at least that's how I read the paperwork), so there should be no nikasil to cause bore wash. Not saying it can't happen, but it is far less likely.
I am betting on a stuck throttle plate (good lord, that was ugly!); unless, you screwed something up changing out the fuel pump . . . it starts to start but won't keep running (a fuel filter issue?). We know it wasn't the CPS (plugs fired correctly!), wasn't timing; wasn't lack of bright, timely spark -- leaves compression or fuel, ne? Same gauge (a professional one) will read compression (once cylinders are oiled) and will later read fuel pressure while cranking and running, ne?
Let's stick to the problem and get this sorted, please.
But go slow and reassemble carefully. Turkey baster can put oil down the cylinders; and few turns on the starter will pump up tensioners and spread the oil along he walls and rings. Load the plugs and go.
I am reminded that one of the earlier members would tell us that the most important tool in our toolbox is patience. Go slow and review everything you have done. Best of luck.
Hey Jim, I'll be in Norfolk this weekend...plan on heading to the Military Aviation Museum and maybe the Wisconsin. I get entailed in history, so I may be at the Aviation Museum for awhile. I've been on the Wisconsin a few times, never been to the Aviation Museum.
Great place. Not sure what's still there -- been twelve years! Weather should be great (maybe hot Sunday).
In Filthadelphia this weekend for wedding.
D: Can't see why you need to do a compression test. Put some oil into the cylinders, pull the relay; just let it spin a few times to get the oil into the tensioners and spread along the rings. Load the plugs, load the relay and fire it up normally. Don't see a need for WOT.
If it doesn't start, we start over in trying to figure it out.
05-17-2019, 05:55 AM
