I question whether this is an issue of too high a fuel pressure. Something is leading the ECU to believe the engine needs enrichment (choking) on start up. Try disconnecting the MAF sensor (pull the plug off); this will disconnect the temperature sensor. If the ECT is bad, the system may think it is cold out and enriches the hell of startup. Pretty sure it is really hot right now in Oz!

Another thought, maybe uncap the fuel cap . . .

 

Yep, my older jag would flood and not start with bad coolant sensor/harness, **worth checking

 

The PART C2N3866 keeps popping up I don't think it is for my xj8
The part E2157 I think is compatible with my car
so below is what I originally brought last November

Purchased from Partsgp-888 $39.65 Aud

New Fuel Pump Install Kit For JAGUAR VANDEN PLAS XJ8 L XJR XK8 XKR 100 8A
Brand New Intank Electric Fuel Pump & Install Kit
OEM Replacement, Direct Fit!
Fit above compatible vehicles, with gasoline engines only. (not for diesel or FFV model).

Item Description:
1). Fuel Pump: Same performance as your original pump!
2). Fuel Strainer: Neat nylon material;
3). Universal connector;
4). Rubber hose included!
5). Stainless Steel Clamps: 2pcs.

Performance:
Operating Pressure: 15-90 PSI - final fuel pressure set by the regulator
Flow: 140-160 Liter Per Hour, at 3.0Bar/13.5V
Voltage: 12V min.

Dimensions:
Overall Length (tip to tip): 4 1/2" (11.5cm)
Length of Pump Body Metal Case: 2 5/8" (6.6cm)
Pump Body Diameter: 1 1/2" (3.8cm)
Inlet Diameter: 5/16" (0.8cm)
Outlet Diameter: 5/16" (0.8cm)

New Premium High-Performance Fuel Pump
Part comes Ready to install with Upgraded Strainer, which Features a multi-layer filtration design to ensure long life.
Condition: 100% Brand New
Strainer Included: Yes
Warranty: Lifetime (how long is that your's, mine hummmm?)

OEM FORD Part Number:
1W1Z9H307BC F7AZ9350AA F7AZ9350AB F7RZ9H307GA F8AZ9H307AC F8PZ9350HA F8RZ9H307AB XC2Z9H307AA XC2Z9H307BA XC2Z9H307CA XL3Z9H307AA
XL3Z9H307BA XL3Z9H307CA XL3Z9H307DA XL3Z9H307EA XL3Z9H307FA
XW1Z9H307AB
AC Delco Part Number :19237648
Airtex Part Number : E2157
Bosh Part Number : 580453401 69069 69072
Delphi Part Number :FE0296 FE0298 FE0299 FE0300 FE0319FE0299
Denso Part Number :951-0008 951-0016
Kem Parts Part Number : EFP708 EFP720 EFP721
Master Part Number : E2157
Walbro : GCA3379,GCA740,GCA741,GCA742,GCA745,TCA708,TCA721, WEP708,WEP721

 

Xjack do you mean the sensor that fits into the bottom of what I would call a header tank
and the wiring associated with it
that I know the sensor keeps falling out and the low it comes on so I just push it back, I'll get round to that later
I will check the harness thanks

 

OK so unplugged the MAF sensor wire off, opened the fill cap (slight pressure. temp today 25deg C
put back on the fpr vacuum hose
checked the coolant plug cable disappears under the firewall
check any other connections all over the top of the engine just in case
cranked it kicked to start then cut out as per usual
tried again WOT nothing cranking only
took foot off cranking only
so sure didn't like removing the MAF wire plug
now cranks only

 

Removing the MAF plug sends the ECU into a default for fuel regulation. It should balance your air/fuel so it can start. If you have a code reader, read your codes, one will be for the MAF. Those codes can be quite helpful to us.
Be sure your battery is charged completely again, as DonB stated earlier, low battery voltage can prevent the ECM from triggering.

 

Sorry I do not own a code reader
I was unsure which one to buy
if disconnecting the MAF do I crank with WOT or 1/2 or none?
and how many times cranking 15sec per go x 10 times?
Code Readers
https://drive.google.com/open?id=17D...aybacrhvNyeY7U

 

Is your fuel pump branded or chinese copy?
Coolant temperature sensor is fitted to the thermostat rail pipe on the front engine,

I've got bluetooth obd2 scanner and installed torque on the mobile / head unit, works magic, however i don't think it will help much unless you've got check engine light

 

When you remove the connection for the MAF, the default mode is almost immediate, so you should be able to do a normal startup procedure.

If you have a smart phone, the general consensus on site here tends to lean toward the ELM 327 bluetooth (I tried the wifi version with poor results). You can get them off Amazon for about $8 US. Then download the Torque app, the Pro version is like $2-3.
Here is the one I bought 4 yrs ago... ...so do your due diligence a shop them. I leave mine plugged in because you can use the app and do live time monitoring.
You may find some auto parts stores will do a loner program on such things (the hand held). You literally buy it and return it when done...or you could straight out buy one from there.
To look up the codes in a search, be sure to put Jaguar P****, by putting Jaguar in front, it will tend to get your more specific results for the car.

 

the pump is from the land of everything (China)
the spec's 7 messages up.

I do like theJDIAG JD316 reader $49.99. There is a video of 2 faulty ELM 327 1 blew up the guys ECU looks to me like he plugs it in and out with ignition on something I don't think you should do.

I will check the temp sensor

The battery never falls below 12.3V when cranking

I don't understand how the MAF can control fuel or pressure when the regulator is a mechanical device controlled by vacuum, unless it controls the fuel relay cycling it on and off
Let me know about buying the code reader pls thanks.

 

Not that Chinese are unable to do things right but ebay is repleted with unbranded kind of cheap fuel pumps (not always shipped from china) i doubt they are worth the time and effort, if yours is branded it should be right
I have sent you private message

 

XJack got your parts today, thanks heaps
will fit them tomorrow. hope for fire up fingers crossed

 

Thanks Xjack the fpr arrived
the pressure is 48 psi ignition on
and
38 when cranking
it is much less erratic
but I am getting so disapointed and lost
as I dont understand why it pulled up in the drive way ok, and only coughed and spluttered the next day?
only to find the fuel pump died.
I am so frustrated now, could be crank sensor and this and that, really this engine is so over engennered. its really looking at get out of my driveway loose the money and watch a catapillar squash it.

 

Dutchy i hope you have got second car so fixing jag is not live or death situation
Take the good coil and try it on each cylinder if it starts coil was bad, replace coolant temperature sensor, you have tried to disconnect maf but you could give it some cleaning (read first how to do it correctly it is delicate) compression test wouldn't hurt
At this point i would look to hang obd and see if there is anything pending there, you will also be able to log the data like air flow throttle position and see if they are correct
I would hesitate to touch the fuel pump which is new, it is not easy job

 

Before the engine starts, there will be no difference in the rail pressure whether the vacuum hose is connected or not to the FPR. The difference only shows when the engine is running and there is vacuum. You can test the FPR if you disconnect the vacuum hose from it and connect another hose to which you apply external vacuum. The fuel pressure should drop to about 38 psi with vacuum present, depending on how much vacuum is applied. You might be able to see some pressure drop if you pull vacuum, as much as you can, with your mouth.

Otherwise, the rail pressure does not depend on what pressure the pump can deliver but on the pressure setting that the FPR has. If the pump "tries" to deliver higher pressure, the FPR will automatically just open its bypass more and still maintain the pressure for which the FPR is set (calibrated).

The pressure of 48 psi you read while the engine was not running is fairly close to the specified 44 psi. This difference could also be due to some inaccuracy of the gauge you used. It seems to me that your problem is elsewhere, not in the fuel pressure. Possibly injectors (did you check the injector relay?) or in the ignition - check for good spark.

 

Well, I have walked away for a while.
And No, I haven't done anything about injectors, as the car was running fine until the pump died.
Xjack I will keep all parts you sent when / if it goes again someone might need them
I have ordered a liquid filled pressure gauge, hose fitting, and extension to check pressure correctly
The car runs on 5 or 6 plugs in and remove 2 plugs, it is noisy but it does run.

if I put in 7 but it gets worse if I put in 8 no go again.
I have thought about the crank sensor but haven't even tried to find it
as to the temp sender it is plugged in fine and so are all other connections.


I haven't put the one in Xjack sent me


as for spark I have tested all coils using the new plugs it is a not a white or blue spark more yellow in colour

have ordered another new fuel filter, but it has fresh fuel twice I have changed it totally empty

and saving for the Foxwell NT650 scanner, expensive but I have 2 other cars it can be used on

So we wait for parts

Regards and thank for all the help everyone (Dutchy)

 

M.S
can you tell me where the injector relay is located please
waiting for the new gauge to arrive to test
but I don't think it is a fuel issue
and the location of the crank angle sensor
maybe a replacement would not hurt.
Thanks John (Dutchy)

 

The injectors relay is next to the engine ECU (under the plastic cover in the engine compartment corner near the windscreen).



The crank sensor is right at the bottom of the bellhousing, seen when looking from the transmission side towards the engine - you will see wires connected to the sensor.

 

Highhorse
How many times without any throttle would you do this procedure, I have tried only 3 times in a row giving the starter rest, the initial first revolution of the engine it nearly fires, then it's just a dead cranking with no signs of life.

Today I replaced the temp sensor with a known working one from another member it does seem better. (maybe it's me after a break)
I have also tried 1/2 throttle, the only real close fire up is with WOT, then it goes dead. So again with WOT again fire and again a continual cycle for 20sec of cranking.
I do now have Engine Lt and ABS Lt on the dash the whole time, which I did not before.

1. I have not checked spark using each coil and spark plug from each cylinder
2. haven't looked at the crank sensor
3. I have ordered a Foxwell NT650 reader

pls if you can look at the Link it's the latest video on starting, it does sound promising.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/192T...ew?usp=sharing

 

Do you mean it starts with the 7th and 8th spark plug removed or just disconnected?
Lets see what the scanner says i hope that check engine light hides some good tip.