Tensioner metal I was led to believe they were replaced with nylon or something if that's original weren't they a problem?
so I have to bring the flats to the top level with the angle of the head?
and still struggling to get the drivers side off

 

Upper (secondary) tensioner pads are plastic, the tensioner cylinders were initially made of plastic but replaced with aluminium as the plastic ones were cracking.

As you rotate the crankshaft, you should bring the flats of the two camshafts on one side to be in the same line and parallel to the surface of the cylinder head where the cam cover gasket seats. Then look at the other head - the camshaft flats should be in the same position in relation to their cylinder head.

 

I think that fillips was put there by whomever did your tensioners....mine is 10mm....but it could be a 3.2 thing?

 

Here's the link to the coil pack check (I'll need to read this myself!) :
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-specs-72540/

You quite can't tell a bad coil pack by looking at it (asides from potential oil down the wells etc) but they do seem to go bad if put under stress. My method of checking (with a running engine) is to pry off the coil pack connecting plug and listen if the engine gets lumpy. If it does, then that coil is OK. If it doesn't, that coil isn't running. If there's only one bad coil, you can try swapping it with another one and seeing if the problem follows it. I don't know if this method puts them under more stress though!
After running through my own maintenance activities, cleaning the cylinders but blocking the cat , I managed to kill four coil packs. When I tried to repeatedly start the engine, I might have killed them through overstressing. But then again, maybe I killed them with the blocked cat? If all four were dead because of that, it would have been VERY difficult to start it too.
Ps, the borescope camera is about £10 on ebay, it attaches to your phone and you use "Camera USB" app to photograph and video with it.

 

Ran across this gentleman's great post on Jag tensioners, the types, description and very good picture so you know what your looking at... Some Jaguar photos

 

This alarms me as I brought and put in BKR5EIX-11 and have an aj26
also pictures of the cams, I had to use the starter motor to turn it over eventhough I had removed the plugs
the cams on the top are lower than the bottom ones both sides ( I think unless I got mixed up)


I think Jim must have meant BKR6EIX-11, which are the Iridium equivalents of the OE Platinum plugs for the AJ26 engines. BKR5EIX-11 is the Iridium equivalent for the AJ27 engines.
Note that until gtjoey's post this thread had had no activity since 2011.
Cheers,
Don

the red slides are plastic

 

Camera angles can be deceiving, but in the top pic, it looks like your a tooth off? The secondary chain doesn't seem to be as tight at the other one in the lower pic either? Could be a stretched chain and/or a failed tensioner?

If you have the plugs out, you should easily be able to turn the motor over at the crank bolt (turning clockwise) with a medium ratchet socket set (1/2 in. we call it in the US). Take the serpentine belt off the tensioner pulley also, it will make it easier.

 

I see what you mean in the first pick I did notice the bottom camshaft (for exhaust I would think) it was no go turning with a 1/2 solid righ angle slide t bar the socket is not a perfect fit either what size is the nut on the crank
also, the serpentine belt is still on
the second photo 2 bank (passengers side) which is which primary/secondary
I'll check tomorrow with a quick video
also, the small level isn't small enough so will get a flat piece of steel
and is that correct the lower (exhaust) cam is a different height which stops you putting a flat across both.
and I think to pull the tensioners out soon.

 

When the camshafts are correctly timed, you should be able to, by turning the crankshaft clockwise (only), find a position at which you should be able to put a suitable flat piece (or a short ruler) across the flattened portions at the fronts of the camshafts (seen on your pictures) with no gaps, on both banks at the same time.

Using the starter motor will not work as, when you stop the starter, there may be a bit of backlash of the crankshaft which will screw-up the alignment crankshaft-camshafts. You have to turn the crankshaft slowly using a socket on the crank pulley bolt.

 

ok got that but I am sure one cam on both outer sides sits lower but still should be able to get the side of a steel ruler to sit on them
what size is the crank bolt on the pully pls

Don
This is the screen I get from your link no search/go/ button after the car info has been done
but the main thing is to identify the BKR6 and BKR5 which belongs to the AJ26 3.2 not the 4.0
thas why I found the plug9082 champion to try and cross-reference, all The info I have is telling me I got the wrong plugs but M.S might know if it makes any difference or is to do with temp or something

 

The crank bolt socket is 24, i was able to turn my crankshaft with the plugs in, albeit very hard and only a bit at the time, with the 22 and the ratchet only. only clockwise as M.S. said

 

It may be hard to accomplish without crankshaft locking peg but you should have crankshaft locked or at least stopped in correct position while checking camshaft flats.
Mine were perfectly parallel to each other but after locking crankshaft i found out they were all off by quite few degree, perhaps the last guy there tried to time the engine at TDC or primary chain stretched with the same result

 

I didn't rotate it a couple of times the belt is off much easier now
photos Drivers side Perfect

perfect Drivers 01

perfect Drivers 02

perfect drivers 03
I will do passenger side later it is out by 1-2mm

 

You should not do the passenger side alignment check separately. Once you have aligned the driver's side cam flats as shown on your pictures, just check whether, at the same time, the flats on the passenger side cams are also aligned. Then check whether the triangle sign on the flexplate sits as shown on the picture (opening next to the crank sensor):

 

This afternoon I rotated the crank so the cams did 3 revolutions
the bank A (RHD) drivers side was perfect as in the pictures no light can be seen getting under the straight edge between the cam flat

However Bank B Passengers I check did not move the crank has a small gap on the top cam now it only looks like 0.5 mm to1mm
now I will leave it there and look for that triangle tomorrow
see photos of passenger side thats the side with the dip stick and I call that bank B


Passenger side 01 Top Cam

Passenger side 01 Top cam Gap

Bringing them around

 

I doubt the timing is your issue. It doesn't look as if it's jumped. The 'red flag' are coil pack codes flagged on one bank (the one that's skipped a tooth).

 

Now I understand what you meant when you said that one camshaft sits lower. According to your pictures, it appears that, at the passenger side of your RHD car, the camshaft flats are also parallel but the flat on one camshaft is slightly below the straight edge. This is quite strange and it could only be a result of a repair in the past to damaged camshaft bearings. The cam bearings re-boring is normally done by first cutting the cam bearing caps shorter (lower), bolting them onto the head and then line-boring all bearings to the specified diameter. The line-boring eats a bit into the bottom halves of the cam bearings (part of the head casting) and this results in the camshaft sitting a bit lower.

As the flat on this camshaft, even though sitting slightly lower, appears to be parallel with the flat on the other camshaft, just leave it as it is and, as you said, only check the triangle.

With regard to your writing on the spark plugs, don't bother getting the exact plugs for your engine for the time being. Whatever spark plugs you have (as long as they are new) the engine will run fine with them once you find and fix the actual reason for no-start. Once you get the engine running, you can put the correct spark plugs in.

As you may have to move to the ECU next, I suggest that, before trying with another ECU, you unplug all ECU connectors, inspect the pins and sockets for any dirt/corrosion and plug them back in again. You may also do the unplugs and plug-ins a few times which will rub off any corrosion on the pins or sockets and reinstate a good contact. Then give the engine starting a try.

 

Hi Dutchy,

Here's the page from the Vehicle Specifications booklet that gives the Jaguar spark plug part numbers, where you can see that the ROW plug specification is the same for the 3.2L and 4.0L engines.



I'm traveling and don't have access to all of my references to find the OE manufacturer of Jaguar part number NCA385OFA 1, but since your AJ26 probably uses the Denso 16-bit Engine Management System, I believe your original spark plugs should be NGKs, not Champions.

Searching as I am from the U.S., the NGK Part Finder only gives me the 4.0L engine as an option. But if I use the Europe-Middle East-Africa part finder (ngkntk.com/part-finder), the part finder states that the actual OE plug for the early 3.2L engine is PFR5G-13E / 2761:

https://www.ngkntk.com/part-finder/p...FR5G-13E/6681/



According to the U.S. part finder, the same plug is also the actual OE part for the 4.0L engines, and the Iridium equivalent is BKR5EIX-11 / 5464:




Cheers,

Don

 

yes Don
That info looks conclusive
I could not see why there would be a difference between 3.2 & 4.0 N/A engine
you have jogged my memory the plug I pulled out was a PFR5G-13E

I think that we all agree that the timing (pending the crank/flywheel check)
that all is well
yes MS this engine was rebuilt I tracked the 2nd owner through the log book and got some receipts as to repairs
transmission and motor had some major work at low KLm's I was surprised

and yes let's move on to the ECU which I gather checks and receives all the sensor info and manages the motor when running
as I think (after the final check) timing is ok
I also think the tensioners look like gen 3 that Highorse sent a photo of, and as the motor was rebuilt they should have replaced the guides too!
I would really like to have a look at the tensioners to avoid a future failure until I rebuild another engine.
is it possible to get them out from the top?
Thanks to all
O! nearly forgot
Sean mentioned about the coil
I think the spark was better the second time after resetting the gap properly and all about the same
xjack has sent me a spare coil to try but haven't as yet
I don't remember getting a coil fault code have to go back to the past
Regards Dutchy
Happy mothers day if not for them this would not be happening

 

You can kind of see the primary tensioners from the top with a bright light (or torch). A bore scope or similar would be a better way.

I think your tensioner is fine....as I said earlier, pictures can be deceiving and you only look off by a mm or so in the later pics.

Agreed the spark was better the second go around.

Checking for codes as you go along isn't a bad thing, it can help hone in on the issue.