Hi Guys!

This is my first time here and first of all thanks for lots of helpful answer in the past few years!

My new project Jaguar is a XJ8 2001 non supercharged model, I bought with knocing engine.
I changed the engine few weeks ago from a running driving same jag after lots of test drive.
Anyway I put the replace engine in my car really careful but when i finished, lots of things come on on my dashboard after the first start;

TRACK NOT AVAILABLE
ASC NOT AVAILABLE
GEAR BOX FAULT
ABS LIGHT
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
RESTRICED PERFORMANCE
ENGINE STALLED

The engine max rpm is 3000 no more
The car drivable only safe mode (so slow)

Anybody can help me what's that or what's the problem with the car?
May vacuum leak or throttle body?

Thank you!

John

 

John,

Welcome to the Forums.

When time permits, please do an Intro in the New Members Area.

I suggest a re-ask in the XJ8/X308 section, where people will have the answers.

 

Hi, First i would say make sure you have a good battery, and all earths (ground) are clean.

 

Welcome to the forum John,

I've moved your question from General Tech Help to X308 forum. This is the place to post technical questions about your model.

Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some information about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

Hello!

So my battery is brand new, but before that I tried to start and playing with old battery, so the question is if I fix somehow the problems, needs to remove the battery or clear out the fault codes, or just fade away from the dashboard?!
I checked few connection and ground but I'm not find the wrong one except I find one lose connector side of the thermostat housing, and I push together stronger and the RPM is go full way up after that, around 5000 or more I can't remember.

But still I have lots of fault;

TRACK NOT AVAILABLE
ASC NOT AVAILABLE
GEAR BOX FAULT
ABS LIGHT
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
RESTRICED PERFORMANCE
ENGINE STALLED

Thank you again!

 

That's a CAN-BUS issue, and more than likely something not connected, go back over the connections. The main areas are ABS module, Trans connections and engine harness.

 

Can you take a picture of the connector in question and how you are physically changing it to give you positive results . Someone may be able to identify it by name to be able to go to the wiring schematic , otherwise you can follow the wires with your eyes to see what it is connected to say TPS , Engine Coolant Temp , Crankshaft Position Sensor just as an example .

Once you resolve the changing state connector might try a Hard Reset

After the hard reset the engine will need to be exercised to hit certain targets like time and RPM to relearn some things like best idle speed , long term fuel trim and such so it will be underperforming until it relearns some things .

Notice the priority of not looking at anything else but the engine at this point

Is the donor engine in the same year as the engine ECU model number may not match .

The currently installed ECU may need to be reorientated to the currently installed engine's sensor package

There are 2 Jaguar TSB's with engine regulation troubleshooting trees that my guide you . Notice that this pertains to the AJ26 engine and yours should be I believe the AJ27 but the engine regulation principles should be the same .

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...0Diagnosis.pdf

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...Flowcharts.pdf

Once you get the above engine foundation items squared away might look at a ELM327 reader to see what the sensor values are but not before hand as this would cloud up and confuse the path to solution in my opinion

 

Do a slight tug on each wire on both halves of the connector to see if the pins or sockets have become unlocked migrating apart missing connection .

 

An overlooked connection that will cause a lot of engine management problems is the engine to chassis ground strap on the right side just a foot or so behind the right front wheel. It runs from the engine/transmission joint to the chassis. If by chance you didn't reconnect during the engine swap it may be creating your problem.

As a few have suggested recheck all of your connections. The disconnected plug by the thermostat was the knock sensor and will throw and engine fault warning on instrument panel. I know because i forgot to plug one in tight when I did valley heater hoses.

 

Which ECM are you using?

These faults need to be addressed one at a time.

This sounds like an ECM connector problem/fault.

The restricted performance will not let the engine rev more than 3000 rpm, so don’t be alarmed.

Use the ECM from the car the engine came from.

Replug all the connectors. Use a conductivity spray to ensure good contact.

This is a problem that will take patience to fix.

Trace all your steps. The trace them again.

It sounds like you have only 2 separate issues here. Not bad for an engine swap. There are usually more.

 

Ok Guys, so first thanks again for lots of idea or help!!

I trying to answer everything!

So looks like this lots of fault/problem coming from three different things!

First;
- I find one connector, side of the thermostat house (that's wires goes between the engine block and TB for sensor, may knock sensor) which one is loose, so I pushed together stronger, that's fix the next problems:

RPM after that is go full way up
ENGINE STALLED
RESTRICED PERFORMANCE

Second;
I find one broken (not connected) wire next to one connector, top of the transmission where is the car has five connector four for oxygen sensor, and fifth one is little bit different like the other four, I think goes to transmission, I fixed the little white wire, and the following problems;

GEARBOX FAULT
No more safe mode ( runs like beast, hurry!!!)

Third;
ASC NOT AVAILABLE
TRACK NOT AVAILABLE
ABS light on
check engine light on (may that's different thing)

I thing this is some other thing, I needs to work on it! Maybe ABS module or some other lose connection.

I changed the ECU from the donor car but my car won't start with it
I checked the engine code before I buy the donor car both AJ27
And yes defenietly wire harness, connector or some electric problem, no vacuum leak or TB problem, because don't need to start the car for showing the faults on dashboard, so the car finding the probelms before the TB or vacuum lanes starting to work.
Oh yes and I don't know what's mean the hard reset!?

Thank you for everybody!

 

 

Hard Reset :

1 . Fully charge battery

2 . Turn key to on position not run

3 . Remove both battery terminals wires

4 . Touch and hold both battery terminals wires together , the longer the better

5 . Turn key to off position

6 . Reinstall both terminals to battery

Drive the car faster then 12.5 MPH and the brake faults my reset

Engine will run underperformance until the ECU relearns it's perameters

My work is done

 

Jani, interesting wheels and a smart looking car! Have you had a look at the issues that surround the ABS module?
You get these warnings when the battery isn't at full strength and prior/on cranking, so ensure your battery is fully charged and carry out the hard reset after this, then see if they go away.
If they're still there after a battery top up and hard reset, then it could well be the solder points on the ABS module board have fractured, a very common problem that posts a C1095 code. The answer is to remove the module, cut it open, re-solder the 2 pump pickups and bond the module case back together.
Hope this helps!

 

Important point Sean B brings about the full battery charge as you tinker around as the ECU's don't operate correctly .

Brake faults may resolve themselves as you let them play out as you drive . Brakes are safe to drive with . True on the common C1905 code but before you go down that path there are easier paths to check out being one of the 4 wheel speed sensors being out will cause all the brake faults . You can read the sensor wire pairs in a fundamental electrical sence with a common meter to see if one is out . The way they work electrically is different but this fundamental way will give you some information . Just pull the ABS connector and read if the resistance is the same for each wiring pair ( 1300 ohms for the X300 ) .

You won't have to concern yourself with this as they may correct themselves .

Fuses ?

 

Have you got a code reader? If you have C1175 (should be that) then you need to resolder your ABS control unit... They do commonly fail on these cars.<br /><br />Just a question: why did you make life so hard by not removing the engine and transmission together? That is the way it should(!) be done to avoid exactly this kind of problem. Especially since the engine has one huge plug on the back bolted to the body. Undo that and no other connections apart from water, fuel, vacume and throttle cable need to be undone...