1994 XJ6 Fuel pump removal help
 

Hello everyone,
I am in the process of removing the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump on my 1994 XJ6 4.0
There are 2 wires going to a 4 prong connector on the top of the tank. I unplugged it and checked if there is power to the pump when the key is turned ON, and there is. The relay by the passenger tail light works fine. I removed battery tray, tank straps, all carpet and other misc items in the way, and I am ready to pull the tank out. The only thing that is left, I think, is the fuel lines. I looked online and saw that one guy was able to tilt the tank and replace the pump, but I was not successful doing it that way. Anyone knows a good reference that walks you through the steps of replacing the fuel pump without a bunch of bad shortcuts?

Thank you,

There are 2 lines going into the trunk under the tank. They are held in by "quick release" clips which, when positioned properly will allow the lines to pull off. They are "D" shaped. Due to their location above the differential housing care must be taken not to lose them if you decide to just take them off. I had a thread going about this last summer when I was replacing my collapsed tank. Search this forum, it shouldn't be hard to find. Good luck!

Hi Sam1980,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.

You have probably correctly condemned your fuel pump, but before you go to the effort of pulling the fuel tank and replacing the pump, it would be worth following this test procedure created by Bryan N of the Jag-Lovers forum:

Bryan N's Fuel Pump Circuit Test Procedure

XJ40 - '93 / '94 Fuel Pump Circuit Test Procedure

With ignition OFF
Remove fuel pump relay (black base, right rear corner
trunk above BFM)
Do you get 12 volts at pin 30 (Brown/yellow) of the fuel
pump relay base from fuse C6 in right fuse box?
If yes, jump pin 30 (Brown/yellow) and pin 87 (Blue/red)
in fuel pump relay base - does the pump run continuously?
If pump does not run, fault is in the wiring / connector
between fuel pump relay and pump
If pump runs, suspect fuel pump relay is defective.
Replace / re-fit fuel pump relay
Remove oxy sensor heater relay (yellow base on firewall)
Do you get 12 volts at pin 30 (Brown/pink) of the oxy
sensor heater relay base from fuse C4 in right fuse box?
If yes, jump pin 30 (Brown/pink) and pin 87 (Blue/purple)
in oxygen sensor heater relay base - does the pump run
continuously?
If pump runs, suspect oxygen sensor heater relay is defective
Replace / refit oxygen sensor heater relay
Remove EMS main relay (black base on firewall)
Do you get 12 volts at pin 30 (Brown/yellow) of the EMS
main relay base from fuse C1 in the left fuse box?
If yes, jump pin 30 (Brown/yellow) and pin 87
(White/brown) in EMS main relay base
Turn ignition ON
Do you hear the fuel pump give its half-second priming
burst? [You can repeat this many times and you (or an
assistant listening at the open filler neck) should hear the
half-second 'whirr' of the pump every time you switch the
ignition ON]
If yes, suspect the EMS main relay OR the EMS ECU is
defective (the latter, very unlikely but possible)
Turn ignition OFF
Replace / re-fit EMS main relay
Remove Ignition 'ON' relay (on a '94 it may be in a
white base on the firewall or it may be buried under the
dash behind the radio, which may make the following rather
difficult!)
Do you have battery voltage at pin 30(Brown) of the
Ignition 'ON' relay base?
If yes, temporarily jump pin 30 (Brown) and pin 87
(White/pink) in the Ignition 'ON' relay base
Do you hear the half-second priming burst from the pump
each time you jump those pins in the Ignition 'ON' relay base?
If yes, suspect the Ignition 'ON' relay is defective or
even fuse A5 in the left side fuse box - but if either is
defective, you will get NO dash lights when you turn on the
ignition, so you should have already noticed that. :)

If you have to replace your pump, there are wire "D" clips on the ends of each fuel line that connects to the underside of the tank. One method of releasing the clips is to use a long screwdriver or long needle nose pliers to engage the "loops" extending from each clip and rotate the clip 90 degrees, which ramps the wire outward so the fuel line fitting can be worked free. Another method is to fish a length of strong thread through the loop on each clip, tie a half-hitch knot to help prevent the clip from flying somewhere never to be found again, then grasp both ends of your strong thread and pull the clip sideward and off of the hose fitting.

Cheers,

Don