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-   -   abs light on (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj40-xj81-25/abs-light-144769/)

kayla1972 06-17-2015 02:03 PM

abs light on
 
hi i have a 1992 xj40 soverign
i have had an abs light on for a couple of months now.
i have had an auto electrician look at it and everything is fine electrical wise.
i have done the blink test and the only code i get is 21.
i have flushed the system with new brake fluid and bled the brakes as per manual. i have also changed master cylinder and main valve.
but the abs light is still on. i am also getting very small air bubbles out of the rear brakes.
when i turn the car on and touch the brake pedal the pump starts running for about thirty seconds and goes of if i touch the brake pedal again the pump starts again instantly.
please can anyone help

MidwestJag 06-17-2015 03:11 PM

Has the accumulator sphere been replaced? Also, do you ever get the red "brake" light coming on and off or staying just on?

Scott

kayla1972 06-18-2015 01:50 PM


Originally Posted by MidwestJag (Post 1249422)
Has the accumulator sphere been replaced? Also, do you ever get the red "brake" light coming on and off or staying just on?

Scott

hi thanks for reply.
no red brake light doesnt come on and no the accumaltor sphere has not been changed. do you think this could be the problem and do you know if you do the blink code test does it give a result for sphere cheers stuart

MidwestJag 06-19-2015 07:51 PM

Stuart:
I'm no kind of expert, but… The "brake" light tends to indicate a failing accumulator. I finally changed mine out when the ABS light also was intermittently illuminated. Funny, once replaced the ABS light was resolved and the brake light continues. I'm soon to swap out the combined pressure switch--which MAY be something you should consider, but only after more research because the thing comes with a hefty price tag. (Might try used?) But again, I'm no diagnostician.

I did a little searching of my own, and saw that the Venerable Bryan N offered advice on your problem a while back on Jag-Lovers. He's the expert, and I would say that if you haven't yet followed his suggestions fully, that's the best place to start. :)

Best of luck!
Scott

Don B 06-19-2015 11:35 PM


Originally Posted by MidwestJag (Post 1251122)
I did a little searching of my own, and saw that the Venerable Bryan N offered advice on your problem a while back on Jag-Lovers. He's the expert, and I would say that if you haven't yet followed his suggestions fully, that's the best place to start.


Stuart,

While you're searching the Jag-Lovers forum and archive, you might also search for "ABS overvoltage relay" and "ABS Module." I can't recall where the relay is mounted, but it's probably in Haynes. And if I remember correctly, some owners have had problems due to corrosion on the pins of the electrical connector for that module, which is mounted in the rear left inner fender near the fuel filler neck, where water leaking through the fuel filler neck gaiter can cause problems.

Also, in addition to the blink test, have you used the VCM to check for any stored DTCs?

Please keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don

kayla1972 06-20-2015 09:31 AM


Originally Posted by Don B (Post 1251206)
Stuart,

While you're searching the Jag-Lovers forum and archive, you might also search for "ABS overvoltage relay" and "ABS Module." I can't recall where the relay is mounted, but it's probably in Haynes. And if I remember correctly, some owners have had problems due to corrosion on the pins of the electrical connector for that module, which is mounted in the rear left inner fender near the fuel filler neck, where water leaking through the fuel filler neck gaiter can cause problems.

Also, in addition to the blink test, have you used the VCM to check for any stored DTCs?

Please keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don

hi thanks to everyone for reply.
i have had auto electrician looking at car and he finds no problems.
i have changed the abs ecu and the relays but still no joy.
the abs light does not go off.
the red brake warning light comes on after about nine pumps of the pedal.
and the vcm displays " fail "
it is all pointing to the accumalater or the low pressure switch. but these were working fine i think before i changed the mastercylinder and main valve.
does anyone know if it is worth pressure bleeding the system?
cheers stuart


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