testing the central lock actuators
 

I'm sure its been posted on this forum and I will continue to search, but I'm removing all 4 actuators from my 1990 VDP and will test to see if they are seized or what, but the car sat for at least a dozen yrs or more (only 32k orig. miles) and I'm sure that's the source of the problem. I just need to know which wires to hook up the battery on the front drivers actuator, the rear ones have only 2 wires so it should be fairly easy. By the way, I couldn't find an actuator for the filler cap, mine is operated via cable that I pull from the handle located on the floor next to the driver's seat, what am I missing? Thanks in advance guys. Cheers.

Walt

Hi Walt,

The wiring diagram for the actuators are on pdf page 38 of the Electrical Guide, which you can download at the link below. The wire color codes are given on pdf page 8.

Jaguar XJ40 Electrical Guide 1990

According to the parts catalog at jaguarclassicparts.com, the cable release was used at least through VIN 594575:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...244d1e2b36.png



Cheers,

Don

Hi Don,

thanks my friend, I've also reviewed my owner's manual again and it also references the cable (which I have) and no mention of an actuator for the filler cap. Just as you suggested it was only used on later models, I don't know why Jag used an actuator for the filler cap anyway, its so much simpler and easier with the cable. Btw, as mentioned earlier I'm in the process of testing my door lock actuators and will report back to the forum what I find. So far, I suspect the linkage (because of years of non-use) being the culprit because of lack of lubrication causing them to stick and creating too much effort for the actuators to move freely. They may have simply burned out the motors in the actuators, or the actuator motors are stuck or both. I will know more very shortly. Thanks again.

Walt

Walt,

I forgot to mention that years ago a member of the Jag-Lovers forum posted a photo album showing the disassembly of the door lock actuators. If I recall correctly, he was able to resuscitate at least one of the motors by lubricating and exercising it, but for a motor that could not be saved he was able to find a replacement (from a Japanese company, I think). Search the photo albums at jag-lovers.org to see if the photo album is still online.

Cheers,

Don

Hi vandenplas90, I was given a 1991 XJ40 a few weeks ago. The actuator on the left rear door was not working. I opened up the door and removed the complete door lock which I cleaned up and lubricated. The actuator, which is a sealed plastic housing, I carefully opened up along each side until the two halves were separated.

With the little motor out I filed away the two tabs holding the rear plastic end in place. Inside I found one of the brushes bent away from the commutator, and the slip ring badly worn down from old age.

I tried to get a new motor from an electronics shop in Pretoria but the one they had in stock looked the same but was a little smaller. I decided to file away the groove on the commutator and straighten the bent brush arm and bend both arms to increase the brush pressure. I cut a strip of plastic to fit in the slot in the brush end to hold the brushes out the way and oiled the front and rear bushes before putting the motor back together and removing the brush separator.

I tested it on a battery and it worked perfectly in both directions.The motor fits exactly into the actuator plastic housing so I just refitted it without crimping or glueing and oiled all the other parts in the actuator before putting the two halves together. I tested on a battery again and the actuator arm wound up and down as it should. I used insulation tape to hold the two halves together and fitted it back on the door lock. The two fastening screws also hold the actuator together. I left the actuator just taped together just in case the I have to open everything up again but so far it works perfectly, but I don't know for how long.

I wish I had taken some pictures of what I did but will remember next time. I hope this explanation helps you to get your actuators repaired.

Hi bobwatt,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.

Thank you for your helpful post. I added some line breaks to make it easier to read because large unbroken blocks of text are hard on the eyes.

Please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST and post a required introduction so we can learn something about you and give you a proper welcome.

Cheers,

Don

Hi Bob,

wow, congrats you've gone all out in repairing the actuator motors. My motors are shot, most likely due to the sticking linkages. I'm replacing the rear actuators with aftermarket universal actuators(2-wires) that work and fit perfectly, and they are cheap. I will store my originals in case I want to tinker with them later. I still have a lot more testing to do and will update you guys when I know more. Thanks again bob and welcome to the forum.

Walt

Thanks Don,
yep, I opened up one rear actuator and the motor was shot, I'm sure the other rear is the same. I'm simply going to replace the rears with aftermarket actuators that work and fit perfectly. Only 4 bucks apiece. I may work on the originals later but see no need to do them now. My front driver side may be an even bigger issue, will know more after more testing. Thanks a bunch and have a good day.

Walt

Thanks vandenplas90, aftermarket actuators may be available here in South Africa but, because don't have money to spend on parts and living 30km out of Pretoria I decided to try and fix it. All my spare cash I need for petrol.

Being retired allows me the time to attempt repairs that, as a qualified aviation tech. and self employed motor mechanic, I would not normally bother with, and certainly not for a paying customer. Necessity is the mother of invention in my situation.

Last night I found that the harmonic balancer has sheared so I am busy removing it and will make a plan to fix it also.

Hi Bob, just curious on how the harmonic balancer got sheared, did you hit a curb or something?

Here's one for you Don, I'm noticing that when I turn the doorlock key to "lock" the doors, the keybarrel seems to make direct contact with the linkage to force the actuator arm down and lock the door. However, there is no "direct" contact from the keybarrel to the linkage (from what I can tell) when trying to "unlock" the doors or "lift" the actuator arm turning the key the opposite way, is that because the keybarrel switch is activated sending only a signal to unlock? So when I pull up on the inside knob, the actuator unlocks, but that's because there is "direct" contact with the linkage "pulling" up the actuator arm. Does this make sense? Thanks in advance my friend.

Walt

vandenplas90, I probably used the wrong word there. The outer part of the pulley where the belt runs is loose on the inner part of the pulley. It appears that it has been like that for a long time. the previous owner had problems with overheating and the right side plastic header tank has a crack where the top hose goes on. This is probably why they gave me the car for nothing.

The viscous fan coupling has also been leaking and probably will not function properly. I am making a puller to get the pulley off and then I will braze the two parts together making it a solid pulley. I did this on a Land Cruiser about 10 years ago and it worked like a charm.

I went to the only scrapyard in Pretoria that specializes in Jaguar for a pulley but they only stock newer models. The guy I spoke to there jokingly suggested I try the museum.

@ vandenplas90:
Where did you find the aftermarket door lock actuators? and do you have a part #?
I am in the process of looking at why my actuators don't work.

Hi Sanchez,

I bought them off of ebay I don't know if you can still find them there because I bought a total of 3 from to 2 different sellers and it was the last ones they had. They were probably phasing them out. Keep looking, you may be able to come up with something similar. Here's the link.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Central...53.m1438.l2649

good luck,

Walt

Sanchez I notice you have a 1990 xj40, is this the one you're having problems with the actuators? Thanks.

Amazon has them

Larry

@ vandenplas90.
No. The 1990 is fine everything works on that one.

All queries here will be regarding a 1992 Sovereign. I have a post titled " Power steering pump leaking"
I picked up a non running 1992 XJ40 Sovereign last week (California car). I haven't added it to my profile as yet.
I got it fired up but I still have to get it running right. It backfires through the intake and poor acceleration when cold. Once it warms up its OK.
Has a burnt harness at the transmission NS switch and the shifter cable is also burnt. (FIXED)
Leaking PAS pump and frozen AC compressor, among the many things to attend to.
I will post some pics of the 1992 soon.