Xj40 88 base & xj40 88 vanden plas
 

Wassup jaggers!!! Jaguar dre here. It's been a minute since i been on but i hope everyone is in good spirits. I finally found what i think i need to fully restore my 88 xj6 base model jag. I recently found a 88 vanden plas model that i want to to part out. The question i have is can i successfully part out the interior and mechanical parts from the 88 vanden plas model to my 88xj6 base model before i make my purchase? Need to know asap suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.......jaguar dre

J. Dre: my gut feel is that you should be able to swap out pretty much everything because you are doing an '88 to '88 swap. The VDP was really just a trim upgrade. You might lose, as an example, the heated seat feature on vdp seats as the xj6 did not have them but all other functions will work on the seats. Ren

Hi Dre,
Depending on condition of the body and mechanicals, I would definitely consider going the other way for your swap..Or ( check my pic) Make them both work! Just my 2 cents, good luck!

Yeah...I Did it Anyway. Lol 😂
 

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Yeah I went ahead and bought the 88 VANDEN PLAS and I'm excited to get started. As you can see in the pictures I have it jacked up because it wasn't running when I purchased and that I knew. But this car is so great and clean I want to get it running and keep it all original INSTEAD OF SWAPPING OUT LIKE I MENTIONED IN THE BEGINNING. Engine has 91,000 miles. interior originally fully loaded. Body in good condition with minor rust spots. it looks a whole lot better than my 88 xj6 but my xj6 is running strong.lol.I think I'm going to just keep them and do them both. On the VANDEN PLAS At first it wasn't getting any fire...I could turn the key over and the radio and some lights would come on but no start. I have gotten it to get a fire from a mechanic but then I noticed I didn't hear the the fuel pump operating. So I changed fuel filter and fuel pump still no sound of the fuel pump and still no crank. Then I looked at the wiring and remembered the original owner did mention mice or squirrels living under the hood when it was sitting and happened to chew through a lot of the wires shown in pics. I do not have any wiring knowledge at all...but I am always willing to learn or pay. I have checked all of the fuses before replacing these parts but after I realized majority all of the wires are damaged Im sure this is the problem. No I'm not a mechanic by far but I have been working on my 88 xj6 just fine as far as replacing parts. But with this wiring...HELP ME PLEASE!!!!! I WANT TO GET THIS BABY ON THE ROAD. I do have diagrams and original wiring manuals that I'm learning to understand but I'm having a time with that.

Hi Jaguar Dre,

Congratulations! That looks like a worthy project car.

Repairing wiring can be tedious but it's not rocket science. For the best, long-lasting repairs, soldering the damaged wires together and insulating the repair with heat shrink tubing is often best. In some instances, crimped connectors may be acceptable. In other instances, replacing all or part of a wire may be the only option. I would suggest asking a local auto electric specialist if, for a modest fee, he or she would be willing to demonstrate some of these repair methods so you can learn how to do them yourself. Good guitar stores and electronic repair shops also employ technicians who possess these skills.

The materials required are not too expensive. A basic pencil-type soldering iron of around 25 watts is fine. I prefer a 1/8 inch wide flat "screwdriver" tip as opposed to a tapered point. This allows you to heat the wire or circuit board pad and component lead more quickly, reducing the risk of damaging insulation or surrounding circuit board components. High-wattage soldering guns are unsuitable for most electronic wiring and circuit boards because they generate too much heat and will melt wiring insulation and damage circuit board traces and components, plus, their tips are typically too large for most electronic work.

For solder, a good choice is rosin-core solder that is 60% tin and 40% lead and thin in diameter, around 1/16 inch or 1.5 mm. This is easier to melt and reduces the amount of time you have to heat the area being soldered. Thick solder is difficult to use and requires too much heat. Acid-core plumbing solder is never suitable for electrical and electronic repairs.

Add a selection of heat shrink tubing in various diameters, Liquid Tape, electrician's tape, and split-loom tubing if any of your damaged harnesses were originally so protected.

Cheers,

Don

Thanks Don. You're The Man....I haven't begin to start but I will get started Asap. I have to find a loyal and trustworthy electrical technician and solder to show and teach me the ropes. Another question I have is if i can provide good quality pics of those wires and harness that are disconnected can you give me knowledge of what part the wires and harness connects to? I am still learning the parts as I repair and replace them but I don't know exactly what wires connects to what part so I can purchase and change them completely. I kinda have pictures of all those disconnected wires in the original pictures before the interior pics. But I can take more to get a better idea of what I'm looking at in reality. I do have the original wiring diagram manuals and have been studying . It's a big help but I also need more of a reality guidanceas well. It will greatly be appreciated

Jaguar Dre

J Dre: I regularly go to one of the greatest teaching institutions in the country to learn how something comes apart and goes back together. Of course I'm speaking of the local junk yard. Give it a try if you haven't already. Great place to learn and score good, hard to find parts for cheap prices. The u-pick-u-pull are the best places as you are left alone with the car to do whatever you want. Nice vdp by the way. Ren