I cannot get the front left side of the bonnet/hood of my “new” 85 XJ6 to go further enough down to line up with the fender. It’s awful when I raise the hood and lower it down normally. It’s about an inch too high. If I push down hard on that that left corner, it will down to maybe to 1/2 inch from being lined up with the fender. It will NOT go down further. The metal plate where the 3 bolts go through is perfect metal with no rust. I just can’t figure out how to get it to align up as I don’t see how there can more adjustment. The right side is good. Looking under the car, there seems to be no adjustment to “arm” that holds the hood (and the attachment bolts).

HELP!

Richard

 

These can be a real PITA sometimes ! Were the hood hinges removed at all ? It's a very long time since I lined the hood on my 1980 XJ, (in around 1992 I think, after a repaint !!), but as I recall, you first need to remove the hood latch pins so you can align the hood flat on the engine compartment, then adjust the hinge bolts and maybe also the hinge-hood screws. You'll probably need the bumper to come off for that. Then having done that, you raise the hood, replace the latch pins without the springs, loosen off the latch plate and lower the hood gently to see how the pins engage. Move the latch plate to ensure the pins engage centrally and re-tighten the latch plates. Remove the latch pins and replace with the springs in place. Finally check the locking/unlocking action.

However, the above may not be fully correct, my memory is not as good as it was, so proceed carefully !

 

I am currently in the midst of that same project myself - gapping the newly painted hood to the newly painted fenders. It's a heck of a job! And I've spent many hours trying to get it right. And right in my eyes may be a little more stringent than the typical body shop, but not any more or less than you guys and gals on this forum. We ALL seem to be a bit more attention to details than most.

I've been using a piece of masking tape over the holes of the latches to see where the pins poke them through, but it's still quite a job to get both the proper gapping alignment AND be able to get those pins to line up perfectly in the center of the latching hole. Maybe it's not the center I should be looking for??? I'm open to suggestions.

 

Welcome to the show!
I spent over a month to align my hood after engine replacement. I marked the position of the hinges prior to removal but did not verify the hood alignment, which I should have done.
I ended up with the same issue as benzjag but mine was only a half inch too high on the driver side. I ended up elongating the holes on the hinge about 1/8".That finally got the hood to sit flat but when driving the car the driver side would unlatch on it's own and when I tried to close the hood, the passenger side would latch but not the driver side.
I ended up removing the hood for the umpteenth time. I removed the bumper, grill to access the hinges from the front of the car.
I also removed the the spring from the hood latches and taped them in the open position. I also removed the spring from the hood pins and started all over.
I placed some tape over the hood latches and with a helper, placed the hood on and used a paint stick to align the gap on the sides and the rear of the hood. Only then did I attach the hinges at which time I realized that the elongation I made on the hinge holes were unnecessary.
With the hinges now affixed to the car, I opened the hood, replaced the tape at the hood latches, put some grease on the hood pins and carefully brought the hood down to the tape. I then adjusted the hood latches until they were centered with the hood pin. When I was satisfied with the fit, I marked and removed the hood latches, to put back the springs and the hood pins to do the same.
Now, I close the hood by pushing the front center of the grill so the hood falls on to the latches evenly. ( I was told that this is the proper way to close the hood). If I try to close the hood by grabbing the driver side or passenger side to push it down, sometimes, one side may latch and the other wouldn't.

 

Then there's light at the end of the tunnel. I only have 27 more days till I get it right!

 

I removed the latch pins altogether, got the hood aligned and tightened and then worked on getting the hood latches to work properly. I filed the holes in the latch mounting brackets (sheet metal) to get them to line up.

Also, the latch pin springs are very strong. 20 lbs per inch. You notice when you pull the release lever the hood explodes up violently. I replaced them with 10 lbs per inch and now it always stays latched on both sides and it opens without any problems when I pull the lever. If you have problems with one side or the other popping open when you go over a bump I highly recommend changing the latch springs to the weaker ones.

I am sure you know this, but you can remove the grill, loosen the hinge bolts, close the hood and get it centered and adjusted, then reach in through the hole where the grill goes and tighten the hinge bolts.

 

@Yellow Series 3. My hood works well except for the violent motion when I pull the hood lever. Where did you purchase the weaker hood pin springs? Part #?

 

@yatchmanbuttson: Sorry. only 26 more days lol. It's hard to do the hood alignment without having a helper. However, based on what you posted, you seem to be on the right track.
Next week I am heading down to Boynton Beach to look at an XJS and an XJ6. If you don't have it completed by then, I can swing by if you need some assistance.

 

Jeff & Sanchez - none of the grillwork or headlights are in, so that makes it much easier. And yes I have a set of the lighter springs. I eliminated the radiator cross piece and replaced it with aluminum to clean things up when the hood was off. So now that I'm getting closer to proper tapping, I find some interference that I now need to file down. I'll get it. Thanks for being my corner team. I know I'm not alone working... even when I am.

 

Here is a link to the springs at Grainger -> Link to the springs

Jeff
P.S. Sanchez, please check the PM I sent you

 

I have seen other posts in addition to those here that cuss the bonnet alignment on the S3. I bought mine without engine and the bonnet unbolted, but laying in place. I can see there is a latch on both sides, but if the bonnet fit well before it came off, why is it so hard to put it back on? This step in my rebuild is still months away, but now you're just scaring me.
Dave

 

Dave - my advice is that you probably have the radiator and condenser out by what you say. While they are out you have great access to the forward hood hinges that attach to the frame. If I had it to do over again I would have taken the two bolts out of each one and pulled them out of the frame, cleaned them up, conditioned them and put them back in. That way they would move around for adjustment easily, without banging the heck out of them for adjustment as I had to do.

 

Sanchez - I would welcome your visit even if I did get it ironed out by then. Love to show you my new garage and the WIP on my car. And would love to see your interior again.

 

Yes, I've removed everything at the front end, including the bumper. I will clean the hinges as you say and pretend the bonnet will go back as easy as a '56 chevy.
Dave