I also noticed that every engine swap I have seen on line has the trans attached. So, I assume that is the way to go? Or can you just break the powerplant free?

 

Either the engine or the trans can be removed individually. The Jaguar repair manual shows removing them together but it isn't *required* that you remove them together

Cheers
DD

 

In my view its easier to take the whole shebang out then split, if you're swapping the engine, however, each to his own.

 

Just looking for knowledge here... What makes it easier to pull them together?
Going by a Haynes manual, and an excerpt I downloaded, there is no clarification. Pull the bell housing bolts, or the Trans support. I wonder if there is a clearance issue Seperating the block and the Trans with the Trans still in place? There must be. Why else pull them together?

 

that's Jaguar, if you look at old Jaguar Service Manuals from the 1950's on, they always show them being pulled or installed together.

just a thought, if you are going to replace the engine, you might consider installing a 4-speed automatic. The original BorgWarner 66 tranny in these cars is dated and being only three speeds, it is inneficient. The Series 1, 2, and 3 XJ have many GM parts in them. William Lyons, the founder of Jaguar, used to shop for parts at Studebaker, Ford, GM, and even at Packard from the 1940's through the 1980's. For example, my '65 S type has a Ford Power Steering pump system, a Studebaker transmission, and a Packard Heater Valve.

many replace the BW66 with a 4-speed GM transmission. There is a company called John's Cars which sells a conversion kit and other improvements for the XJ, like a rack & pinion Bushing Kit which eliminates the side-to-side play caused by the factory bushings. I have those bushings in my car since 1992 and they make a giant difference in handling.

Jaguar conversions, swaps, parts, service and advice - from John's Cars in Dallas.

 

Thanks Jose. I had already noticed the kit they sell for the rack and was going to ask about that. I see they also have pretty much all the front end bushings in poly. I just want to be sure I do not modify the "Ride" on the Jag by changing them all out.

As far as the trans - I did not even think about that, and I am very interested. Your right - since I am more than likely pulling the entire drivetrain anyway, it would make sence to make a change at this time. I will look into it.

 

There is no cutting required to remove the front clip, but it is a lot of work. Nothing comes off as a complete "unit". All has to be taken off a piece at a time. I recently did this with my 1987 "Donor" car that I'm using for the drive-train and suspension for in my 1950 Mark V. If you have any questions about doing it, let me know. I found the hardest part is getting access to the fender bolts closest to the front of the wheel well. Only a LOT of cussing and patience got them off, because almost no wrench I could find could get a grip on them. Also, if you need any parts other than drive-train or suspension let me know. I have this thing almost completely dis-assembled now. Here is a shot when I was about half what through the process;



BTW, this is the "before" shot;

 

Thats what I was looking for! Actually seeing the way this can be done, helps - you cant quite visualize it. Thank You. This weekend I begin...

 

BTW, the way I finally accessed those impossible bolts in the wheel well is using a "U-Joint" attachment on a socket. Also, you need to remove the carbon canister and overflow tanks first to get to those bolts. I ended up breaking my radiator fan cowl to remove it. There was probably a way to save it, but since it wasn't important to save for me, I just broke it off. Just so you know, removing all the connecting nuts from the radiator will allow it to be lifted off the mounts. At first it seems it won't come, but it is just wedged in the mounts. You have to lift the unit straight up to free it (if that makes any sense anyway! lol)

 

One other thing, there is no need to remove the front doors for this process. I found this out the hard way after removing the passenger front door without need.

 

If you're gonna remove the engine only I'm pretty sure it'll come straight up and out. Remove fan, radiator, and hood. Unbolt from trans, etc. Lift straight up.

I'd hate to see you remove the valance, bumper, a/c condenser, oil cooler, aux fan, etc if it really isn't required.

Cheers
DD

 

I dunno. I never pull an engine and trans together if I can avoid it.

Cheers
DD

 

Yeah, very good point. I forgot about the condensor issue. The high pressure hoses got stuck at the connections and were impossible to remove. I had to chop the hoses. IF there is anyway to do this without, I would suggest it, but I found there was no other way to do it. Also, watch the gas line that goes into the bottom of the compressor/cooler area. It appears Jaguar is using it as a fuel cooler, and it sprayed petrol all over me when I unhooked it. It was very pressurized, and burned my eyes quite adequately!

 

Looking for more info on the rack and pinion bushing kit mentioned above. I didn't see it on JC's site. Is that where it is?

Thanks,

Eric

 

You may have to call. Not everything they sell is shown on the web page, as I recall.

Other Jag vendors sell similar bushing kits as well

Cheers
DD

 

yes, you need to call them for it. you will notice that their kit includes a steel Bracket/Shield and complete instructions. Some people have installed the kit without the bracket/shield because they thought it was for shipping purposes only! hahaa! (they bought a copy kit from another vendor which comes without instructions).

make sure you follow John's instructions including the bracket/shield (goes on the driver's side rack "ear" mount), and also install the Spacers which are also included.

it's not a very easy job, but I did it myself one afternoon. you do not have to disconnect any power steering lines but you need to support the rack at the center so it doesn't stress the tie rods or fluid lines, all you have to do is remove the two rack bolts, lower the rack just enough to remove the old bushings and if I recall correctly, you might have to disconnect it from the steering joint. (don't hold me to that, I did mine in 1992).

this mod is like installing a K & N air filter, you do it once and never again.

 

During the week I am taking my time and removing various items getting ready to pull the engine. Jose had mentioned a trans swap option that I am interested in. But for now, I am going to change the fluid and filter in Borg and see if it works. I would like to experience the "Stock" ride and will consider what to do from there. I will however pursue the rack kit, as mine is leaking fluid from the boots - I assume I will pulling it anyway at some point. When I get the engine out, I think I will have a good view to determine what is going on.

 

I know I am pulling the engine anyway, and will have access to the throttle body, but is there a way to get it off while installed?

 

Also - found a sweet deal on Craig's list on a 3 ton engine hoist.

 

if the rack is leaking, you'll need to get a replacement rack, the bushing kit does not resolve leaks, only side-to-side "play" of the rack unit itself. Don't try to bother rebuilding it, it's not worth it. Check with Autozone to see if they have a lifetime warranty replacement rack, that way you only have to spend the money once. (you'll have to give them yours as a core). And if you're replacing the rack, replace the Outer Tie Rods too, they're probably worn anyway. I am not 100% sure but I think the rack is a GM unit used in many cars; The Power Steering Pump is a GM Saginaw unit. The power window motors are also GM from Pontiac and Buick. The door mirrors and the Fog lights are from the Jeep Grand Wagoneer of the 1980's. (picture below). Almost forgot: the one-way check valve in the Fuel Evaporative System (near the charcoal canister), is also a GM part.

as you can see, there's a lot of USA parts in these cars, piece o' cake. Of course the engine is the fabulous Jaguar XK Twin Cam engine developed in the 1940's.