1986 XJ6 - New to me.
#41
Also, if you had a Shop Manual, you would have read that the fuel system needs to be de-pressurized whenever you are disconnecting any fuel components because the fuel system is under pressure.
Cool beer not fuel!
Last edited by Jose; 08-09-2012 at 01:40 PM.
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Ahabiam (08-10-2012)
#42
HOW TO DE-PRESSURIZE THE JAGUAR SERIES 3 XJ FUEL SYSTEM:
1) disconnect the wiring plug at the INERTIA FUEL CUTOFF SWITCH, (located on the passenger side, below and near bottom corner of dash). This switch will normally tripp if the car flips over itself but it is also a cause of no-start symptoms sometimes if for unexplained reasons, the switch tripps. There is a push-buttom at the top of the switch, use it to reset this IFCS, for example if the car has sat for years, when you try to start it, the switch might tripp preventing fuel from reaching the engine.
2) start and run the engine until it starves from lack of fuel,
3) system is now de-pressurized. Disconnect the fuel lines to your heart's delight!
HOW TO PRESSURIZE FUEL SYSTEM:
1) reconnect the IFCS wiring plug, and press the reset button on top of the switch to make sure the switch has not tripped.
2) start to crank the engine, (you'll need a fully charged battery since it might take a while for the fuel pump to charge the system with fuel). Keep cranking until engine starts.
fuel system is now pressurized.
NOTE: this procedure is in the Factory Service Manual.
1) disconnect the wiring plug at the INERTIA FUEL CUTOFF SWITCH, (located on the passenger side, below and near bottom corner of dash). This switch will normally tripp if the car flips over itself but it is also a cause of no-start symptoms sometimes if for unexplained reasons, the switch tripps. There is a push-buttom at the top of the switch, use it to reset this IFCS, for example if the car has sat for years, when you try to start it, the switch might tripp preventing fuel from reaching the engine.
2) start and run the engine until it starves from lack of fuel,
3) system is now de-pressurized. Disconnect the fuel lines to your heart's delight!
HOW TO PRESSURIZE FUEL SYSTEM:
1) reconnect the IFCS wiring plug, and press the reset button on top of the switch to make sure the switch has not tripped.
2) start to crank the engine, (you'll need a fully charged battery since it might take a while for the fuel pump to charge the system with fuel). Keep cranking until engine starts.
fuel system is now pressurized.
NOTE: this procedure is in the Factory Service Manual.
Last edited by Jose; 08-10-2012 at 05:43 PM.
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Ahabiam (08-10-2012)
#44
Last edited by Jose; 08-09-2012 at 07:58 PM.
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Ahabiam (08-10-2012)
#45
#46
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#49
I made some more progress this weekend, and learned much. Removed the fuel rail with no issues, I plan to send the injectors out for cleaning and testing. I was able to remove the intake. Only one bolt snapped, and there is enough left over for me to get it out before its time to reinstall. All the accesories are off, and the only thing remaining is to remove the exhaust. Depending on how much time I have before the "Donor" engine is ready - I might try to pull the head. We will see how much trouble the exhaust gives me first. I plan to really clean, scrub, and debris the engine bay first too. This was one dirty pig of an engine. I cant tell where all this oil came from, there is too much of it everywhere. It seems obvious the power steering pump was one of the culprits. But the other side, the A/C, alternator, are also completely infused with years of oil. Not sure what to look for there.
#50
The engine wiring harness needs attention as well. I already posted pictures of the hack job somebody did on the sensors. I also found the harness coming across the front of the engine, by the fuel line was crimped under the water pump. It was in there so tight the wire was actually flattened out and cut. I have not looked at what this section of the harness controls - whatever it does - it has not done it since this waterpump was changed out.
#52
do you mean removing the hood? yes, you'll have to remove it to remove the engine, (two person job to lift it), but not the a/c condenser, or the transmission cooler, or the fenders, but you need to remove the radiator to get it cleaned and tested anyway.
BTW: there is a mod to get the hood to open a full 80 degrees and lock in place, as opposed to the 45 degrees factory spec. It entails fabricating a new locking bracket. After a while, hiting your head with the safety hooks can get pretty painful!
BTW: there is a mod to get the hood to open a full 80 degrees and lock in place, as opposed to the 45 degrees factory spec. It entails fabricating a new locking bracket. After a while, hiting your head with the safety hooks can get pretty painful!
Last edited by Jose; 08-14-2012 at 04:58 AM.
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Ahabiam (08-13-2012)
#53
Pretty excited to pull this guy out and get one that runs in!
My donor is lined up, I'm hoping I can pick it up this weekend. I got the cat and the exhaust manifolds off tonight. All that remains are the mounts and the bell housing. And much cleaning.
Jose - I Like that Mod for the hood, is there someplace I can get a kit or instructions?
Thanks for mentioning it.
My donor is lined up, I'm hoping I can pick it up this weekend. I got the cat and the exhaust manifolds off tonight. All that remains are the mounts and the bell housing. And much cleaning.
Jose - I Like that Mod for the hood, is there someplace I can get a kit or instructions?
Thanks for mentioning it.
#54
Hood Mod: there's only a drawing of the bracket and a picture of the installed bracket/latch see below. while you're at it, make one latch for me, (I'll pay you of course).
Last edited by Jose; 08-14-2012 at 04:59 AM.
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#55
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Mark Scotton (08-24-2012)
#56
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Mark Scotton (08-24-2012)
#57
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Mark Scotton (08-24-2012)
#58
The star of the show is the donor engine waiting on transplant. Dave tell me it is a strong runner. I cant wait to hear it.
Any suggestions on what I "Must" do to this powerplant while it is on the engine stand? I figure while its out - now is the time. Dave gave me an oil pan to swap out, as the original has some bad threads on the oil plug. (Jiffy Lube "In training" probably.) I will get a good look at the bottom end. I am planning on the standard stuff, plugs, cap, wires, rotor, new oil, coolant flush. I want to remove the cam covers and jazz them up some. I will clean everything up nice.
What else?
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Mark Scotton (08-24-2012)
#59
he told me you went crazy taking pictures of everything !! detail the motor and engine compartment nicely, that should do it.
Last edited by Jose; 08-21-2012 at 05:24 AM.
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Ahabiam (08-23-2012)