Has anyone attempted/succeeded in installing a keyless entry or remote door lock in a Series 1 XJ?

I am only interested in locking and unlocking the drivers door...

 

I didn't do it, Roger, but my car came to me with remote locking, a feature of the Viper that was installed in 1986.
Viper model 300.
Husband found it was still supported as of 2015.
https:Viper - Car Alarms | Remote Starters | SmartStart | Window Film and Tint | Vehicle Security | Keyless Entry
(';')

 

Should be a cakewalk, Roger.

Mount up an aftermarket solenoid/motor....dozens to chose from.... to actuate the lock linkage and then wire up an RKE system to operate it.

Bulldog makes a basic/fundamental RKE that works well. I've installed several. Of course, if you want 116 bell and whistles there are plenty to choose from.

Cheers
DD

 

I've just done this.
I bought two aftermarket systems. One included a nice remote with chrome buttons and
I bought high torque actuators because its an old car and i thought it would be necessary. They all seem about the same so a cheaper one should suffice. The high torque actuators were not necessary, so i just stuck with the one system rather than cobbling both together. I sprayed some lube on bits just to make things easier.

The package i got came with some brackets for mounting the actuators. The brackets were strips of metal about 10cm long that you bend to support the actuator where required. On the front doors i mounted them just above the inner door handle with 1 and 2cm spacers made from washers. On the back door i mounted it at the rear where the latch is. The door cards are still off in the hope i can find some electric window mechanisms, i'll try to take some photos tonight.

 

Photos would be appreciated... interesting to mount the solenoids so far forward from the lock?

I was considering HD solenoids, but guess I do not need them after all. Will continue this project after fixing my steering rack leak at the tower seals soon.

 

I am getting ready to install this in my car, although it already has the solenoids from factory, the wiring was cut out of the car.

 

Photos as promised.
its an aftermarket system so probably of no help for the factor version.
The controller i installed in the engine bay just behind the vacuum reservoir and ran the lines through a hole in the firewall behind the steering wheel.

I think the most important part is making sure the actuator is parallel with the locking mechanism.
On the front door you can only see the mounting screws (circled), no need for the brackets, just screws straight into the actuator. there isnt space anywhere else in the door for it.
The rear door is easier to work on.

 

Thanks, the photos will be helpful.. it is third on my To Do List.

 

The no-frills RKE system I've used (several times) is a Bulldog KE1702, about $35-$40 on Ebay

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks Doug but that model does not come with actuators? My older Jag does not have power door locks = YET!

 

Right, but you can buy aftermarket (or OEM replacements) actuators all over the place....giving you dozens of choices rather than being limited to what comes in a kit.


Cheers
DD

 

Hi Doug,.. I ordered the Bulldog KE1702 from Ebay. After receiving it, I went to their website for the wiring diagram and they didn't have the 86 XJ6 listed.
Tried to email their tech and customer service addresses and both got returned un-deliverable. Tried to call and got an answering machine.
Googled their business status and found "out of business" notices.
Can Ya help me out?
Thanks,

 

Too bad, as they have the smallest remote fobs... buying a kit would get me enough spares to last my lifetime...

 

my car dont have any door handles, so had to go remote FOB opener!

22yrs ago, i know ahead of the curve! notice round door edge rear of door.

 

On a mid-85 and newer Series III things get tricky when adding RKE. You'll need to add an additional lock solenoid/motor to operate the driver's door lock linkage. This emulates turning the key in the lock and activates the 'controller' in the drivers door. The controller sends a lock/unlock signal to the lock motors in the other 3 doors.

The RKE system you install (Bulldog in this case) will be used to operate only the additional lock solenoid/motor that you added on.

Mid-85 and earlier cars use a different system with relays. On those cars the RKE system simply triggers the existing lock and unlock relays.

I'll try to find some old postings and/or notes on the subject ...which will give more info.

Cheers
DD

 

Here's are postings (from January 2002!) on Jag-lovers re: RKE on a late car with the Kiekert lock motors (as opposed to earlier Lucas lock solenoids)

Unfortunately it appears that I never mentioned what RKE kit I used!

I still have (I think) some old instruction sheets from my previous Bulldog installations. I find them, take a peek, and try to help you with the wiring

(I can't help but notice that I was much more loquacious 15 years ago!)

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _________


Well, it's all done and working ! Here's the low-down:
Door lock motor:
As we know, an additional motor must be added to the driver's door. I bought
one (a "DS2SQ" ) from this outfit for $20.00US
Alarms, keyless, starters, remotes and Transmitters: Alarm Systems
The beauty of this motor is that it is very compact, about 2�" x 3�" x 1�"
and has flat sides. I mounted it to the Jaguar Kiekert switch assembly
using, don't laugh, epoxy. It is a wonderful fit right alongside the Kiekert
unit and keeps the angle of the actuator rod acceptable.
First I removed the Kierkert unit. After removing the door trim, carefully
peel away enough of the plastic water shield membrane to gain access to the
rear half of the door. Just push it forward inside the door....you'll want
to put it back in place when all done. Reaching inside, with your hand
reaching forward, you'll be able to feel (and see) the Kiekert unit and it's
harness and the wire tie which holds the harness to the side impact beam.
Using snips, cut the tie. The kiekert unit is held to the door with two
bolts from underneath. Undo the bolts, and undo the actuator rod at the door
lock cylinder (the little clip just pushes away from the rod). The Kierkert
unit can now be "maneuvered" (tee hee hee) easily out of position and there
is extra harness length which comes along with it, allowing easy unplugging
of the 4-pin connector.
I then cleaned the Kiekert unit and smeared a dollop of GP epoxy on the side
(the side which faces inboard, towards the cabin) and set the new motor atop
it. The two mounting bolts will foul your new motor if you place it's lower
edge in line with the bottom edge of the Kiekert. Mount the new mount so
that's it's bottom is about a �" higher than the bottom of the Kiekert.
Using long wire ties I tightly cinched the two together and set the assembly
aside to dry. I left the wire ties on permanently, BTW. Can't hurt
Also I this point I roughed out the geometry of the motor's actuator rod,
relative to the Kiekert rod, and found it about 1�" too long so I trimmed
it to size----stronger than it looks, BTW !
Reinstallation was easy enough but there a couple fiddly moments getting the
new, wider assembly properly in place. To keep things in check I hooked up
the Kiekert unit sans the operating rod of the new motor. I did this so I
could adjust the Kiekert unit back to correct specs without fussing with two
rods. The unit slides and it's a simple matter to slide it back-forth to
reach that "sweet spot" while simultaneously operating the door lock flapper
then cinch down the two mounting bolts. (Note: if the door latch is in the
"open" position you won't be able to do this. Here's a trick: using a
screwdriver roll the latch plate over to the "closed" position and you've
now made the linkages fall into the "closed door" position and can work the
lock to your heart's content with the driver's door open. Just don't for to
reset the latch plate when your done by lifting the outside door handle and
rolling the latch plate in the opposite direction----all of this is very
evident when you are actually looking at the door latch at the end of the
door.)
At this point install the actuator rod for the motor and lightly clamp
(clamp provided with motor) it to the Kierkert actuator rod----don't tighten
it yet.
Wiring in Part 2





Once the lock motor was installed I could move on to the wiring. Rather than
tie the new motor's wiring into the Kiekert harness I took the cowards way
out and ran new wiring into the door. I wasn't looking forward to this but
it simplified the technical aspect of the wiring to some degree. The new
motor and control system would be entirely independent of the car's own
Kiekert system.
Remove the door speaker and pull the rubber door-to-body wiring conduits out
of their holes at each end. You'll note that the conduit is actually two
pieces, overlapping in the middle.
Take an 18" piece of thin-but-stiff wire (I used 18ga copper hook-up wire)
and solder about a foot of 16 ga wire to it. Now, to that piece solder two
pieces of 16 ga wire.These two wires will be what you ultimately hook up to
the new lock motor. The idea here is to start off with a thin, easy to
handle wire and move up to the bigger stuff, easing the pull-thru.
Separate the sections of the rubber conduit in the middle---just push them
away from each other. Using some silicone spray give the inside of the
conduit a good lube job----you'll be glad you did. Now, starting at the
separated conduit, run your thin wire in and push it past the 90� bend.
You'll see it come out the other end. Pull a few inches and then start
working it into the door. With one hand working through the speaker opening
and the other pushing the wire you'll eventually be able to pass it thru. Be
patient.
When you've got in thru the door, lube up about 3 or 4 feet of the wiring
and pull it thru---carefully, of course. The lubrication really helps,
though. You'll want to have enough wiring in the door to reach the new motor
and be routed well clear of any window mechanisms, etc.
Cut off the soldered-on sections and go to work on the other end of the
wiring---through the body of the car. Using the same idea as before,
prepare the other end of the wiring. Push it through the other section of
the conduit (remember, at this point you are working from the middle of the
conduit, where the two sections join) and, for the moment, leave it
hanging. Don't try to put it through the body yet.
Remove the driver's kick panel and you'll see a large grommet in the body.
Remove the grommet. Find a thin coat hanger and straighten it out. Run it
through the hole where the grommet was and towards the hole in the door
jamb. Your going across a vacant cavity about 5 inches wide here. Removing
the door jamb light switch will let you see inside and where your heading
with your coat hanger. When you get the coat hanger thru the other side,
attach it to your wiring---which is fully thru the rubber conduit and just
waiting for you. I used a small solderless wiring connecter to attach the
wire to the coat hanger.....I knew anything else (like a twist or a knot)
would just come undone or jam up the works.
Pull your coat hanger thru and, voila, you've now run wiring from the cabin
to the innards of the door ! Spray some more lube and slide the wires a bit
to make sure they are not snagged. Lubricate and reinstall both ends of the
conduit and the inside grommet.



More wiring. I won't go into too much detail as wiring will vary from
system-to-system. But here's the basic idea:
The control unit sends a "lock" and an "unlock" signal on two separate
wires. On my system this is a "negative" signal. Others are positive, or
switchable. Anyhow, each of these two wires are used to trigger a relay
which, in turn operates the reverse-polarity motor.
You'll need a 5 terminal, common automotive relay---the type with both "87"
and "87A" terminals. Here's the hook-ups I used...virtually identical to he
diagram Larry provided a few days ago.
Term 86 both relays 12 volts (from the control unit on my system)
Term 87 both relays 12 volts (fused battery voltage on my system)
Term 87A both relays ground
Term 30 both relays wires from lock motor, one per relay
Term 85 both relays trigger wires from the control unit, one per
relay
Since, at rest, 87A and 30 of each relay are connected internally, both
wires to the lock motor are grounded. When "unlock" is used, one trigger
wire from the control energizes one relay. Now 87A is open, and 87 and 30
are connected, sending voltage to the motor via the wire on term 30.
However, the other relay remains non-energized, so the motor wire to that
relay remains grounded via 30 and 87A. When "lock" is used, the exact
opposite happens.
Note that this system works if the motor wiring is kept independent of the
Kiekert wiring. What I'm hearing from others is diodes are required to wire
directly into the Kiekert system.
Well, that's the trigger system. The balance of the system should be hooked
up as per instructions in the kit.
I mounted the control unit behind the driver's kick panel----there's a nice
cavity there. On my car, though, it's getting pretty crowded: remote lock
control and relays, headlamp buzzer, interior lamp delay timer, and fuel
pump priming relay. If I add anything else I'll need to go to the other side
of the car

 

I ordered the Bulldog stuff today and two actuators from another source.

 

I think you'll be happy. I've found the Bulldog systems to be very durable and reliable. I've used them on 6 or 7 cars, including three Jags.

Cheers
DD

 

Itchyback

Do you have a better picture or explanation on how you made the connection piece for the actuator to the Jaguar rod? Looks
very nice and compact.. would rather copy yours than reinvent the wheel!

Will go ahead and mount the Bulldog receiver and run the wires... looks like that will be the easy part... will try to fit it behind
drivers side outside kick panel.

 

Doug

It worked out fine, except for connecting the actuator to the actual rod that opens and locks the door. Waiting for a reply as I do not want to reinvent the wheel unless I have to... S1 has no room anywhere so duplicating the one itchyback has done would be easier.

I had to reverse the wire colors to the actuator to get the open and close to go according to the remote fob... there was barely room for the Bulldog receiver inside the left hand kick panel area.. it is laying on top of the window control unit. One of the large wires to the window control was hot all the time so I used it.

Of course one of the plastic rod connectors broke for the rod that actually open/closes the door and I do not have any spares, ordered some from David Boger. Will put all back together except for the door panel card and the door handle (need the plastic clip).

Thanks for all the help... like the small remote Bulldog fob!