Hi all
I know there is currently a massive thread on rebuilding a power steering rack but as that is mainly a debate on to rebuild it or buy a new one I thought I’d create this thread to log my journey in this project.
first let me say if you have the money to spare and don’t want to get your hands dirty and just want a fun car to drive go get a new rack and have it installed it truly isn’t that hard.
I on the other hand enjoy filling my time with projects especially ones that’ll save me a good chunk of cash!
so after my power steering rack leak went from bad to worse I figured it was finally time to drop it.
Im making this thread after I’ve reinstalled it so pictures of the first drop I do not have.
i will say that if you’re attempting this and want a general idea of what’s required to get this thing out, go on YouTube and search “living with a classic power steering rack” this video is on the v12 but it’s essentially the same as an xj6 S3 furthermore these “pow-a-racks” which is distinctly stamped into the main tower assembly are the same as the triumph stag rack to which there are plenty of videos out there for you to enjoy.
anyways after a little research I decided it was time to drop it (note at this point I was not only ready to replace the seals but also upgrade the bushings to poly ones especially after seeing the state of my old ones) so with parts in hand I disconnected every o and brought it to the bench.
often when reading these threads I see people speak of struggles to get new seals over the splines, In this instance I was lucky the leak had come from the outer housing far from the tower so after removing the lock ring as well as inner tie rod I got to see the leak was actually due to that outer housing seal being shot, simple enough replacement put it all back together, new bushings in, and under the car we went, this, this is where I made a critical error, I knew I should’ve replaced ALL seals but I couldn’t help but think if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, haha well after several hours struggling to get the new tight bushings in and finally getting things in order, I felt a test drive was necessary, this drive was great let me tell you those poly bushings are no joke you can FEEL the difference in handling without much vibration being brought into the cabin aswell, the second day is where the nightmare begins as I nothice my pump is bone dry and theres a Nice large pool of liquid on THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RACK *sigh* back to square one I guess, my only fear is that this is the infamous seal people struggle so often with and that I do not have the seal already from the kit as I’ve heard numerous times a certain seal is not included in many of these kits.(any info on this would be greatly appreciated before I drop this rack again) well I guess this time I’ll upload some pics and hope someone somewhere learns from my mistakes.
much love everyone!!!
-Mikey C

 

Hi Mikey,

I am nearly done with my rebuild and found that I had a serious rack leak the other day while I was priming the system. Turned out to be the end housing seal, just as you had. I had cut a chunk out of it while putting it back together. I had to order a bunch of the square-rings (no one here had them) and found out this afternoon that it is just a guess whether you've cut the new one when you put it together. I ruined (3) of the new rings, lucky I bought 10, and on the fourth try it felt good going on. I rounded and polished the sharp edge of the main tube and especially the inside of the two locating notches, I think that is what cuts the rings when they sag into that notch and then are sliced when the notch comes to an end.

I didn't do a right-up on mine, but there are a few pictures and comments in my rebuilding thread. Post 65 and 66.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...j6-lt1-211881/

Dave

 

Hi Dave!
I hadent known this at the time of writing but I gave the boot next to the end housing a squeeze just to see if there was any fluid in there and sure enough there was, I did Nick the polished rod a tiny bit in trying to remove the inner tie rod end (which was very stuck) I thought maybe I’d be able to get away with it but am almost certain that it sliced the seal!
At this point I’m looking at possibly getting it rebuilt in a shop as a friend of my dad works with the shop often and gets a good price from them, plus it wouldn’t be too bad since I’d be able to deliver them the rack itself and wouldnt be paying for the time spent in getting it out. Although if I’m gonna be taking it out anyways I’ll definitely have a look at this!
and I can’t believe I hadn’t thought to prime the system and check for leaks prior to hooking it all up, as I just filled the pump before first start up and let it fill up with the start!

too bad they don’t sell a seal kit that expects you to mess up haha!
Getting it rebuilt in the shop is also looking like the better option for that reason aswell would probably be done quicker than I could get a new seal kit over here and would rather put whatever money into a proper rebuild than another botched attempt!
this was definitely a fun learning experience though and perhaps during a period of time when I’m not in need of my daily driver (like this coming week!) I’ll be able to spend some more time really learning to do it properly.
owning an old jag may be a pain but at the very least you can do most of any needed work yourself with enough time research and care, on a new car? Forget it! With all the codes and specific electronics what a nightmare!!!

seeing as your name is LT 1 jag I gotta assume you’re a lumper!!
this is something I hope to do to my baby far enough down the line but have been very very on the fence about it as an xk engine with only 20k miles on it is something of a marvel in it of itself honestly the big problems come from things like this rubber that’s rotted away from years and years of just sitting and no use!

 

Yes, as I came to find out when I started this project, I'm a lumper. I was specifically looking for something that I could turn into a performance car, yet keep it looking "stock". This one had the original engine removed (seized) and the extra LT1 engine to boot. I hope to start it this weekend. From what I've read here in the Forum, the XK engine is a pretty good engine and if you have one with only 20,000 miles, I would wear it out first.

Dave

 

I solved the rack leak for good just follow my story under shtekler that's my name on the forum

 

My 77 XJC needed a rack rebuild, and I upgraded to late Series 3 version.
‘Very pleased with quicker ratio,better turn in and feel.
Vendor had no issue taking an earlier rack as a core.

 

I will buy rack that was rebuild only by BBB

 

4CATSTUDIO - I have a 1975 XJ6C. Did the Series III rack and pinion just drop in with no modifications on your 77 XJ6C? And are all Series III racks the same (assuming left hand drive).

 

The S3 rack has a shorter tower for the pinion, so you have to change the lower steering column as well to the same series.
‘The hoses have to be changed, a different fit as well. I have read the old can be bent to fit, but why put old hoses on a hydraulic system being repaired for leaks?
The physical mounting is the same.