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Any tips on mounting XJ12C to rotisserie?
I am getting ready to strip my XJ12C down and replace the rotten floor sections. I would like to use a rotisserie to make this easier. I am concerned the B-pillar(less) design will not be rigid enough by itself to not deform. Does anyone have any experience doing this? Any BTDT on how to properly brace the body shell to ensure it keeps its shape once the floor is cut out? Trying not to turn my car into a pretzel.
Thanks Eric |
I have experience. I done 2 coupe floors and thankfully ,my latest coupe didn't need floors. Word of caution, be prepared to replace more than just the floors, thats usually just the beginning. Rust tends to walk up the A pillar, the forward torque box and transmission tunnel seam.
I wouldn't put a coupe with soft floors on a rotisserie. Floors are important to the over all shape of a coupe. It's best to do the floor pans with the car on jack stand at the jack points with a bare shell. Important that the floor is level too. The engine, both suspension assemblies, hood, glass boot lid all out of the car to reduce the stress of end weight. Leave the doors and wings in place so you can verify alignment. Do one pan at time and consider adding some bracing a bit before and after the under seat rib. Coupes are super flexible compared to modern cars and small errors can show up as poor shut lines for the hood and front fenders. |
I'll be putting my xjc on rotisserie this winter, haven't done this before so follow icsamerica's advice as he's done it.
I have made two rotisserie mounts that bolt into the area where the bumpers/rams fit at front and rear. I also have two steel box section braces that run under the bodyshell I will bolt up to the two mounting points to help with rigidity. I'll be removing everything off the car - trunk lid/boot, doors etc. I am going to bolt and weld braces in the car with doors off on ground before mounting to help retain shape and rigidity also, using the door hinge mounts and seat belt anchor area. My floors are intact but dented up due to an off road excursion by previous owner. I hope to straighten this out as they are in good shape - as icsamerica says they are an important structural component |
Thanks for the advice guys. Copy all on using jack stands to replace the floor. Once that is done, I do want to put it on a rotisserie to finish the rest of the body work. I do have one issue because the rear lower corner of the driver's door sticks out a bit. I am hoping this is due to deformation of the rotten cross beam under the seats. I am still stripping the car, so don't know the full extent of the rust damage. I plan to take it to a bare shell and work my way back from there.
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Originally Posted by hartene
(Post 1994045)
Thanks for the advice guys. Copy all on using jack stands to replace the floor. Once that is done, I do want to put it on a rotisserie to finish the rest of the body work. I do have one issue because the rear lower corner of the driver's door sticks out a bit. I am hoping this is due to deformation of the rotten cross beam under the seats. I am still stripping the car, so don't know the full extent of the rust damage. I plan to take it to a bare shell and work my way back from there.
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I usually am not thrilled with the XJ-S's, but wow to you. What a lovely looker. Congratulations on your project - I love the colour - what is it?
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paint is called Champagne Silver, slight pink color!,, DUPONT bests, base/clear!
of interest when i was doing the body shell work ! i rotated car upside down , for a progress check of trying to keep shell straight, car never had any heavy accidents,so figured it was straight!, i tied 2 long pieces of nylon fish line crossed in center barely touching, from the front subframe mounting brackets thru bolt holes, then back to the rear radius mount bolts,left front side crossed to right rear side , tied to the bolts run in so i could adjust them up or down with the line attached and measure where they cross each other, during at least 1 1/2 year of work, also i did one side floor /rocker panel replacement before doing other side ! it will help to monitor straightness during progress! ron |
If you are just replacing the floors then you wont need a rotisserie but if you need to do any other work or completely rebuild your car then they are invaluable.
You need to make an assessment of the "rustiness of your car first. Check the major areas of rust and any repairs that have been done. Once you have done that and think it's OK to put on a rotisserie the first thing to do is to check, repair the mounting points for the rotisserie. I had to completely rebuild the front to get mine on. Then add some brace across the doors. I put a couple of braces on the pillars before jacking up. As I saw further how rusty it was I added another couple of braces to the door gaps and a couple of braces going across the car at the front and back of the doors creating a square at the top of the doors. I then welded a diagonal (a piece of scaffolding pole as I was running out of metal!) At the bottom I put in another brace from each inner A pillar to the inner rail supporting the floor pan. I also put in a brace from the corner of the top square to the bottom of the rear wheel arch area and another brace inside the rear window motor area. Then I remove the outer sill and saw the horrors inside and was glad I'd done so!!! As I go along I will be adding bits from stainless steel, strengthening plates and improving the drainage to stop the car rusting again. I have purchased some 3" 14 gauge (76mm, 1.6mm thick) to use a s a brace inside the sill and will reinforce it's mounting to the A pillar, central seat mounting channel and both the front and rear of the C pillar. |
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