ATP AT205: Anyone used it on XK engines to seal a crankshaft oil leak?
#1
ATP AT205: Anyone used it on XK engines to seal a crankshaft oil leak?
Has anyone tried this product on their Series I-III (or any XK engine with the rope seal) and was wondering if it worked for them? The only proper way to replace the seal is engine off the car and crankshaft out. I want to avoid that with my Mark 10 if I can get away with it.
ATP AT-205
ATP AT-205
#2
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Location: Walnut Creek, California
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I'm not much of a fan of these sealers. I am not familiar with that product. I think most are designed to swell rubber type seals.
Rope is another thing. Rope seals will work but, eventually fail. The fitting is so critical.
I've three thoughts:
1. Find the maker of the product and consult with the tech support, if any.
2. In past years, tools existed. One a twisted wire to push through the upper and allow it to be pulled out. Reverse the procedure to pull a new rope back in. Fiddly and could and did work sometimes. But, f not, oh h.. !!
3. A similar device was pushed through and expanded the rope enough to reduce or stop the leak. Much less risky, of course.
4. Replace the rope seal in the main cap only and hope for a reduction of the leak to a tolerable level.
5. If it isn't just way gone, use a drip pan and live with it.
Caveat. Lots of lube on the installation is imperative.
Caveat II. If the bearings are way loose, getting a seal is not
probable.
Caveat III. A less than perfect seal surface on the crankshaft will eat any seal, quick.
Caveat IV. messing with it may make a slight or moderate leak, a gusher....
Carl
Rope is another thing. Rope seals will work but, eventually fail. The fitting is so critical.
I've three thoughts:
1. Find the maker of the product and consult with the tech support, if any.
2. In past years, tools existed. One a twisted wire to push through the upper and allow it to be pulled out. Reverse the procedure to pull a new rope back in. Fiddly and could and did work sometimes. But, f not, oh h.. !!
3. A similar device was pushed through and expanded the rope enough to reduce or stop the leak. Much less risky, of course.
4. Replace the rope seal in the main cap only and hope for a reduction of the leak to a tolerable level.
5. If it isn't just way gone, use a drip pan and live with it.
Caveat. Lots of lube on the installation is imperative.
Caveat II. If the bearings are way loose, getting a seal is not
probable.
Caveat III. A less than perfect seal surface on the crankshaft will eat any seal, quick.
Caveat IV. messing with it may make a slight or moderate leak, a gusher....
Carl
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Lagonia (09-02-2016)
#3
Very nice! Caveat emptor.
The pan gasket leaks heavily too. Not opposed to pulling the engine and tranny and doing it the right way but that is a multi-weekend endeavor. I will end up dropping the front sub-frame and doing the pan gasket, try the "snake oil" (there are good reviews but not necessarily on rope seals) and if it does not work I'll pull the engine during Christmas break and do it the right way.
The pan gasket leaks heavily too. Not opposed to pulling the engine and tranny and doing it the right way but that is a multi-weekend endeavor. I will end up dropping the front sub-frame and doing the pan gasket, try the "snake oil" (there are good reviews but not necessarily on rope seals) and if it does not work I'll pull the engine during Christmas break and do it the right way.
I'm not much of a fan of these sealers. I am not familiar with that product. I think most are designed to swell rubber type seals.
Rope is another thing. Rope seals will work but, eventually fail. The fitting is so critical.
I've three thoughts:
1. Find the maker of the product and consult with the tech support, if any.
2. In past years, tools existed. One a twisted wire to push through the upper and allow it to be pulled out. Reverse the procedure to pull a new rope back in. Fiddly and could and did work sometimes. But, f not, oh h.. !!
3. A similar device was pushed through and expanded the rope enough to reduce or stop the leak. Much less risky, of course.
4. Replace the rope seal in the main cap only and hope for a reduction of the leak to a tolerable level.
5. If it isn't just way gone, use a drip pan and live with it.
Caveat. Lots of lube on the installation is imperative.
Caveat II. If the bearings are way loose, getting a seal is not
probable.
Caveat III. A less than perfect seal surface on the crankshaft will eat any seal, quick.
Caveat IV. messing with it may make a slight or moderate leak, a gusher....
Carl
Rope is another thing. Rope seals will work but, eventually fail. The fitting is so critical.
I've three thoughts:
1. Find the maker of the product and consult with the tech support, if any.
2. In past years, tools existed. One a twisted wire to push through the upper and allow it to be pulled out. Reverse the procedure to pull a new rope back in. Fiddly and could and did work sometimes. But, f not, oh h.. !!
3. A similar device was pushed through and expanded the rope enough to reduce or stop the leak. Much less risky, of course.
4. Replace the rope seal in the main cap only and hope for a reduction of the leak to a tolerable level.
5. If it isn't just way gone, use a drip pan and live with it.
Caveat. Lots of lube on the installation is imperative.
Caveat II. If the bearings are way loose, getting a seal is not
probable.
Caveat III. A less than perfect seal surface on the crankshaft will eat any seal, quick.
Caveat IV. messing with it may make a slight or moderate leak, a gusher....
Carl
#5
I am not sure! I am aware of rubber type seal and I am hoping that is the culprit. I shall find out by the end of this weekend. Replacing the pan gasket and that rubber seal you are referring to.
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