XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Break Stuck - 1985 XJ6

 
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Old 05-24-2019, 06:36 PM
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Default Front Break Stuck - 1985 XJ6

Hello colleagues,

I am having trouble with my 1985 XJ6, the front passenger side tire break stuck, it has been removed and repair for 3x times but still no improvement.

Could you pls tell me what could be the possible cause and how it could fixed?

Whilst driving, the break becomes very hot and sticks to the disk drum.

Please help.

Mike
 

Last edited by mikega; 05-24-2019 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 05-24-2019, 06:56 PM
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have you tried replacing the entire caliper? obviously it was not repaired.
 
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Old 05-24-2019, 07:01 PM
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Hi Mike,

I'm hoping it is your choice of words "brake drum" as these cars were fitted with disc brakes all round.

Two totally different systems.

That heat you describe is caused by friction.

If you do have drums, then some PO has fitted something that shouldn't be there, and so you could have a sticking / trailing brake shoe.

If you do have disc brakes then it sounds like your caliper isn't releasing the brake pad from the disc after you apply your bakes.

You may have too large brake pads fitted so that they are always resting / rubbing against the disc?

A longer shot is a badly warped brake disc, but you would have an inkling of this by a pulsing of the brake pedal when you push down on it.

I would suggest taking off your offending caliper and have it inspected and or rebuilt by a brake specialist.

Cheers,

Nigel
 
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Old 05-24-2019, 07:10 PM
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Hi, A similar thing happened to me. Turned out to be corrosion from a break line bracket crimped the line to the caliper. Causing the fluid to be restricted when you let off the break petal. This made the pads stay engaged to the rotor. At first it would release after a bit, not without some break burn however, it only got worse. So, in a nut shell, check the lines to that caliber. Good luck.
 
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Old 05-25-2019, 07:03 AM
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I had the same issue of a corroded brake line on a Nissan Maxima. I assumed it was the caliper and replaced it only to find it made no difference. Ended up replacing the line, when I could not bleed the system properly. From then on, I always replace the flex hoses whenever I do a brake job. Im already in the area and the hoses are cheap.
 
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Old 05-25-2019, 05:36 PM
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Hi, I second the advice to change the flexible / rubber brake hose connecting the caliper to the body hard lines ( check those for damage / kinks / crushing too, especially if the car has even been towed / hauled. The hooks / chains can crush them ). I had a number of customers with similar problems almost all due to the inside of the rubber hoses swelling shut and preventing the brake fluid from returning to the master cylinder. Given that the are USUALLY not too expensive, it's a good idea to replace them when changing a caliper.

Cheers,
Brian
 
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Old 05-25-2019, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by kudzu View Post
Hi, I second the advice to change the flexible / rubber brake hose connecting the caliper to the body hard lines ( check those for damage / kinks / crushing too, especially if the car has even been towed / hauled. The hooks / chains can crush them ). I had a number of customers with similar problems almost all due to the inside of the rubber hoses swelling shut and preventing the brake fluid from returning to the master cylinder. Given that the are USUALLY not too expensive, it's a good idea to replace them when changing a caliper.

Cheers,
Brian
I second that. Rubber brake hoses definitely swell. If you've rebuilt the calipers that's definitely the most likely cause.
 
 
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