I am trying to remove the Bumper Impact Strut to no avail.
I can turn the 17mm nut that holds it in place for maybe about 5 turns, then the complete strut turns as I turn the nut.
Since the nut turns the whole strut,I locked the wrench in place on the nut and
and turned the strut about 50 turns but the nut does not come off.
It's as if the inner part of the strut where the stud is located is turning as I turn the nut.
Any ideas on how to remove the impact strut?
Can I drill a hole through the area where the strut is located to lock it in place and see if that helps?
Anyone had the same issue as me? and what did you do to remove the strut?

 

I don't know. but, I do have a couple of ideas. Caveat, I may not have understood the processes you tried that failed.


1. Yes, indeed, I did miss one method. Hold the nut and twist the strut.


2. Check David Boger's posts on Jaguar necropsy. It just might absorbers architecture. And perhaps, his web site.


3. A generic search. Google impact absorbing dampeners. Just a guess there.


4. Folks have drilled them to remove the absorbent material and force them back to present a smoother front end. So, Can't hurt, might even help.


4. Final desperate move. Get pout the blue wrench and cut one or both off.


Carl

 

OK. So holding the nut with a wrench, the strut turns inside the cavity where it is located.
I am assuming that the strut is made up of two pieces, the smaller of which projects to the front of the car. The larger diameter piece i would also assume is where the absorbent material is and also the stud to which the nut is screwed on.
I am also assuming that this larger diameter portion is turning but the stud is not or only the smaller(visible) portion is turning within the larger piece. Not sure.
The reason I want to remove them is that I am stripping down the car to repaint and the right strut is about 1/4 inch shorter than the left so the bumper looks off kilter.

 

one thing is certain, those things were not born there! There must be a way to remove the darned things!

 

I know for a fact that the rear ones are held by a counter nut on the inside.
Maybe that's also applies to the front ones?

 

SUCCESS! I removed the impact struts today.
Since every thing was turning with the nut, I drilled a hole through the bottom of the cavity but not through the strut. I bought a 1/4 inch bit that has a flat tip.
I carefully drilled it then placed a bolt in the hole and used my floor jack to push the bolt to lock the strut in place. I was then able to remove the nut.

 

DONE. One of my favorite words.


Going to modify them to move the shiny part inwards?


My chipper issue is slowly progressing. Bit at a time. Hot out there !!!!


Carl

 

More than likely a modification is in the cards.
I went to remove the ones in the rear, but my exhaust pipe is welded to the rear muffler.
I will wait until the car is painted before I tackle that. I will go to the exhaust shop and have them modify the welded connection then proceed.

 

what? Jaguar exhaust parts are never welded, they are clamped.

welding exhaust parts creates the kind of problems you have now.

 

@ Jose: That's for sure. I actually gave the muffler shop 4 flanges to weld to the exhaust pipe and rear muffler. I knew some day I would be needing to disconnect that and that time has come.
Went to the muffler shop this morning with my receipt and the tech who did my exhaust work is no longer employed there. The receipt clearly stated that he welded on four flanges. The manager said he would make good on the repair, so I can go ahead and cut the pipe to remove the rear mufflers. After the car is repainted, I will take it back to them to reinstall the muffler the correct way.
BTW, those were the flanges for the over axle pipes.

 

Jose:


Never is a very long time !!!


A PO welded or had welded the rearmost parts of the exhaust in my car.
welding shops usually go that way.


Small glass packs and tips welded in place after the before the cage mufflers.


The rest, I'll not report on at this time.


Carl

 

Sanchez & Carl, your exhausts were officially butchered by the muffler shop.

in my XJ, I got the car up on concrete blocks, high enough to roll on my back on the trolley,

then I removed everything from the manifolds to the stainless steel S tips. Since it was the original system, it wasn't that hard to separate the parts, no welding or saw saw.

after I recovered from that, I redid the entire exhaust, everything new, from the manifolds to the tips using Rolls Royce Band clamps and Exhaust Adhesive, (Permatex). at every join. Also eliminated the cats and the engine sounds better and less restricted.

In other words, this is not a job for the muffler shop, all they can do is weld pipes together, they don't have the finesse of the factory. Sorry but that is my story and I'm sticking with it.

Sanchez, I have 7 stainless steel U clamps that came with the new exhaust system for my '65 S type, from England.

I didn't use them, I used Band clamps and Exhaust Adhesive too. But if you don't care about crimping your exhaust parts together so that you cannot separate and remove them later, then you will love these. Made by Bell Exhausts UK.

 

Jose:


Yes and no! Is the original more elegant? Yes. Is yours better yet ? Yes.


Does the weld system work ? Mine does, just fine.


Have I welded pipes in place. Definitely. Gas, not the "classy" MIG of a talented pro.


My lump's pipes were done in part by a local "'talented" pro.


Down pipes with O3 sensor bungs. They came bare. I drilled them and gas welded in bungs. Came out quite nice.


The shop used the flange joint up front. The two cats. Then an "H" pipe. the welded to the Jaguar front mufflers. Beautiful MIG welds. If need be, the assembly can be unbolted and dropped. It sounds nice, does not clank or leak.


When time came to swap out a bad Cat in my Jeep, that is where I went.
Old cat's bolt in removed. New cat MIG welded in place. No leak or rattle issues,. To a shop, that's good. Come back, not a good thing, for either shop or client.


Carl .