Wondering where I can find the round after market climate control amplifier for series 3 xj6 thanks

 

D Manners may have one, but Jag Aire sell their own very good version, USA made and VERY helpful guy too.
https://www.jag-aire.com/

 

Would be good to know if the Jag-Aire amplifier lasts beyond the 180 day Warranty.

I don't want to spend $329.00 on a product that only has a 180 day warranty.

Here's the Jag-Aire Warranty if anybody cares to decipher the wording:

"The Warranty Period for Products purchased from Jag-Aire, LLC is 180 days from date of purchase. A replacement Product or part assumes the remaining warranty of the original Product; or 180 days from the date of replacement or repair, whichever is longer."

I sure don't get it.

 

Jose,

Warranty policy changed as of June 1st. 2017. It now more closely matches other consumer automotive electronics warranties. But please realise...we are dealing with 30+ year old components in the hvac system, and some of those other components when they fail, can / will destroy a working amp. The warranty is not only the faith in the product, but the risk that other components will destroy it.

If you have any concerns with the products that I produce, I would be more than happy to discuss with you. Feel free to reach out to me...my contact information is on my website.

Kindest Regards,

Jag-Aire,LLC
Gary Crosby, Owner

 

Gary,

that is good news and thanks for letting me know.

yes I understand the 30 year old system in these cars, but it seems that the only two a/c system components that go bad inside the Series 2 and 3 XJ are the Blowers Relay and the Amplifier. Maybe the Ranco thermostat in second place, though I've rarely heard of one being replaced.

Regardless, you are showing the mark of a good business, and I support your effort.

 

Jose,

While I agree..I have given up amp sales after working with customers to diagnose their system, to find a faulty feedback pot. I have been seeing an increased number of feedback potentiometer failures. This is an often overlooked component and many are suffering from corrosion or wear damage to the wire wound resistor. Unfortunately, I have been unable to source a direct replacement for this obsolete value potentiometer.

Cheers

 

what do you mean "given up on amp sales" ??

 

Simple...I was contacted by individuals who wanted to purchase replacement ac amplifiers.
After a brief conversation.I was not convinced they had an amp failure.. I recommended testing of the feedback potentiometer before any purchase. In three cases, the feedback pot was defective and did not require an amp.. So I could have sold an amp..but that sale was given up. There was a solution to their problem that was cheaper. My mission is to help people fix their Jaguars ailing AC..not sell parts.

 

"....given up amp sales...." was perhaps interpreted as "I am no longer selling amps".

Cheers
DD

 

Gary, I'm hoping you get enough demand for your MC-17 switch to justify putting it into production.

Cheers
DD

 

I am not in the best position to comment on Gary's products. On at least two levels;


1. My Jaguar's AC is not charged.


2. My knowledge of electronics is deminimus.


But, I delight in words and their interpretation. I interpret Gary's message as to "passing up" a sale of one of his Amps after a conversation with a customer indicating, the issue was not a failed amp, but a "pot". Thusly, an amp replacement would not only not restore AC function, but cast doubt on Gary's product.


A lose, lose....


The manual substitution intrigues me although I've not the slightest, if
I even need either.


At the time of the demise of my DOHC, the AC was working better than it ever had. I had had, on/off situations. On reflection, I suspect a vacuum issue.


Carl

 

Doug, the BETA test unit has been working well...the gentleman in Ohio has provided a good deal of valuable feedback, including an unboxing video...you can watch here:
.

I will be producing an initial run of 10 units...and hope to have them available mid week ~ June 28...I have two spoken for already...likely headed to France.

Thanks for the clarification on " given up amp sales"...it sounded different in my head..I can see how it could have been interpreted the alternate way. Word choice can have consequences.😋

Regards

Gary

 

So I have a question regarding the amplifier and feedback potentiometer. Would a faulty pot slowly kill the amplifier?

When I first received my 75 XJ6C I went checked all the interior switches and knob to see what items needed to be addressed (i.e. interior light swtich, turn signal, etc...). One of the items I checked was the Climate Control function. I heard the whir from the servo and the A/C was blowing cold. After a few days the car no longer produced cold air only hot, then a few days after that no air was coming out of the vents and the servo only moved when I turned the switch to defrost. Now nothing works.

I've checked and cleaned the fuses and holders under the driver side dash, behind the left console cheek and the right console cheek. I'll check the fuses under the glovebox tonight after work.

Is there a sequence I should go through when checking out the climate control? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

Neinz,

The Amplifier cannot function correctly without a properly working feedback potentiometer. The method I use to test the system is as follows.

1. obtain a 9 volt battery with snap on leads.

2.remove the left cheek panel from the side of the transmission tunnel by removing the 2 screws on the vent cover. Push the panel slightly toward the front of the car to disengage the clip, remove the panel.

3. find the white octagonal plug, and with a small flat blade screwdriver pry the plug apart.

4. on the female side of the plug (car harness) connect one lead from the battery to the red wire, and the other to the purple wire. the servo should move. if it does not, it may be at its limit switch. reverse the leads from the battery to the red and purple wires. now the servo should move in one direction. You can now make certain that the blower motors operate in both heat and cold. Full cold should provide 4 fan speeds, Hi, Med2, Med1, and Low. Full heat should give only 2 fans speeds, Low and Med1.

5. Connect a volt meter, set to read Ohms, to the Orange and Green wires in the Octagonal plug.

6. Now reconnect the 9 volt battery and drive the servo to each limit switch by reversing the battery leads. (servo stops whirring when it reaches limit switch) you should have ~0 Ohms at one limit and ~2100 (2.1K) at the other.

7. Finally, check for a smooth even increase / decrease of Ohm value on the Orange and Green wires while servo is in motion. The key here is that you will not likely see every value, but you should not have the meter drop readings while in motion.

If all values check out, then your issue is with the amplifier. If you have sudden "disconnects" while reading the feedback potentiometer on Orange/Green... you have a defective feed back pot.

Replacement feedback pots are not available. I have had success cleaning the contacts on some feedback pots...others are simply too damaged to repair.

Please note, the servo is located on the right side of the transmission tunnel. When removing the servo (if necessary) you should clock the servo by moving it to one of the limits, then marking the position of the flap rods with a marker. take a picture. to remove the servo, you must remove the vent extension to access the retaining nut inside the heater box. the servo is also attached with a foam tape and may require being pried off the bottom of the heater box. Any work on the feedback pot requires it to also be clocked to the servo. mark the servo, the feedback pot case and the center cross lug to ensure it is returned to the proper position. Failure to do so can destroy the gears in the servo.

Hope that helps.

Gary

 

Gary,

Thank you very much for the help!! The step by step instructions will make sure things so much easier, I really appreciate. I will get to working on the car later tonight. Thanks again Gary!

 

Well, it looks like disconnecting the connectors and cleaning other contacts did the trick. Thanks again Gary for the instructions. I'm definitely saving those for a later date.