Cruise Control
 

Mine never has worked, but I have not owned it since new. Is there anything to look at first?

the black rubber "accordion" (in front of the brake booster) usually cracks creating leaks and a loss of vacuum. If it looks cracked, it is cracked. Look at it with a magnifier. Seal it with black or clear silicone sealer sold at auto parts stores.

Fuse, vacuum hose to the bellows, and the bellows itself.

If the bellows is leaking it is usually because the rubber has shrunk away from the end plates. You can remove the bellows assembly and use silicone to re-seal the end plates. Take notes on how the end plates are oriented.

If none if this helps we can dig deeper

Cheers
DD

Broken wire at the brake switch.

and if all those check ok,

could be the Neutral Safety Microswitch or its adjustment located under the center console ashtray panel, right in front of the shifter. (you need the Factory Service Manual to adjust it).

The cruise control will only come on in the D position of the shifter, and only at over 40mph.

I looked at the bellows last night when I was working on the windscreen fluid motor problem, and no cracks were visible. I didnt remove the bellows and put it under a magnifing glass yet, just wiped it off and glanced at it. I remember cleaning the eingine 8 months ago or so and while wiping off the Cruise Contron unit, I broke one of the blue plastic round covers and covered up my mistake with black electric tape. I forgot about that untill last night. under it appeared to be a spounge? Any way, I wonder what I broke?

Did you look where I told you? The yellow wires to the cruise inhibit switch at he brake pedal used to break all the time, they would get flexed every time the LH blower motor recirculation flap opened until the top one snapped off. Saw it dozens of times, even when the cars were still in warranty.

you broke one of the two solenoid's cap. you can find a new rubber cap at Lowe's in their Special Hardware aisle, or Ace Hardware. Some paint roller extension tubes have similar caps too. they won't be the same blue color, but if it fits snug and seals the solenoid from the weather, you'll be fine.

Try this test:

Push the front bellows plate towards the rear bellows plate a few times. you will hear a whoosh kind of sound.

Now put one hand over the bellows as you push the front plate with the other hand and try to FEEL air rushing out of the bellows. If yes, it is cracked.

Also you can take a sprayer with water and soak the rubber bellows, then push the plate and look for any bubbles. If yes, it is cracked.

Jose

Jagtech Ohio, Yes I did look by the brake pedal and I see the yellow wires you talked about. I followed them through the fire wall ant to the unit. You mentioned this: "LH blower motor recirculation flap opened until the top one snapped off." Where is this?