Hi again every one and thanks for all your comments.Unfortunately the daimler has been stood outside for the 14 unused years.The last time it was started it seemed to be running ok but the exhaust box under drivers seat was glowing cherry red,i dare not attempt to restart,any ideas please.

 

Mick,

A sleeping cat has to awakened carefully!

I'd suggest this question is best asked in the XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III tech section. We have several knowledgeable owners in both the US and Australia who could give you a lot of help.

Do you want me to move the thread?

Graham

 

Yes please and thanks for rapid responce,cheers Mick

 

Mick,

I've moved the thread to XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & II tech forum.

Have also amended your thread title to 'Daimler Double 6' as 'Dd6' is only known in Europe and Australia/New Zealand. Jaguar cannot use the Daimler brand in the US because it is owned by Mercedes.

Graham

 

The exhaust box under the seat is probably the catalytic converter. It's glowing red because its catalyzing or burring fuel that wasn't burnt in the combustion chamber. This is a clear indication of a problem. It could be a ignition issue, coolant temp sensor issue, high fuel pressure, invalid vacuum signal at the MAP sensor or an injector issue. You could be over fueling or under igniting for a variety of reasons. Injectors that have been sitting for 14 years could be stuck open and dumping excess fuel which escapes the cylinder and burns in the catalytic converter causing it to be come red hot.

School up on how the fuel injection system works yourself or find someone who knows it. If you're going to tackle this yourself start with the ignition system, check all the basics, cap, wires, plugs, rotor, timing, vacuum and mechanical advance. Then move on to the fuel system, check the air intake and coolant temps sensors, check the vacuum lines to the map, check the fuel pressure with a guage. If that all checks out bench test the injectors which is difficult for a DIY'er but not impossible. Just be sure to use extreme caution when using a pump & 12volts to manually cycle the injectors. Use a less or non-volatile cleaner like mineral spirits which is still dangerous so its best to leave the injector servicing to a pro.

It would be best to sort it out before running the car, you risk starting a fire at worst or damaging the converter at best.


The 60 degree V12's are very smooth engines and inherently balanced. Since you stated it runs "OK" thats an indication there is a major issue.

 

Thank you very much for your excellent reply and responce.i have noted what you are saying and will pass this on to someone with alot more knowledge than me.the car was running and driven approx 2 years ago and seemed to perform ok then ..thanks again Mick

 

Just an opinion here - dont spend too much money on new parts until you complete a compression check. I feel into that hole. Not with a Jag engine, but a Ford. I have not seen too many entries where the Jag engine valves are a problem. However, as icsamerica mentions - the usual cause of a cat converter glowing red is fuel making it down the exhaust. In my example, I replaced the majority of the ignition system, and messed with the injectors, only to find out at the end of the day - I had a dead cylinder. Exhaust valve was shot, and would not seal. Just a word to the wise - a compression check is cheap and easy and you can narrow the problem down. Make sure you do not have an internal engine problem before you look at ignition and fuel parts. Good luck - keep us posted.

 

thank you very much for info,will pass info on to mechanic when he returns from long break in thailand,not to good at this stuff myself,will let you all know when i get a result, i am very pleased with excellent responce to my problem.cheers

 

Unfortunately the items you have been told to check such as the compression and injectors will not be cheap if you use a mechanic. To remove the plugs to check the compression much has to be removed off the engine to enable access to the plugs for removal before the gauge can be attached. As will the injectors. The fuel rails for them will have to be remove completely and in doing so the flexible lines will be destroyed requiring them to be replaced. Not such a bad thing as these should probably be replaced anyway.





I would start by checking that the injectors are all firing; you can check this by holding a long screw driver to your ear and placing the other end of each of them to the injectors listening for a distinct click. One stuck open will remain quiet. I would also check the fuel pressure in the rail between the two pressure reducers. Should be 39 PSI.





There are a lot of items to go through not just these two, so in any case my advice would be to go step by step and check back here before moving on to the items that are going to start costing you real money.