Differential stub axle leak. Help--
 

I have a 2.88 differential from what I believe to be a mid-80's XJ-6. The differential is not in the original car, so I don't know what year or model for sure. The problem is I have a fluid leak on one side. Can someone tell me how to determine what year/model it is? And, more importantly, what should I get (parts wise) ordered for the repair? Is it just an oil seal, or is it typical to replace the bearings too? Can I do just one side, or should I do them both? Any advise or part #'s would be appreciated! Thanks! Mark.

Seeing your pic, the main problem with this job is already overcome, that of access !

Your pic shows that you have the diff and brakes from the very long-lived Jaguar independent rear suspension first fitted to the E-Type Jaguar in 1961, and used on all new since then until the XJ40 of 1986. If it came out of a mid-80s Jaguar that can only be an XJ6 Series 3, or an XJS.

If it was me, while the unit is out, I would replace both oil seals. First off you need to remove the calipers and discs, (US=brake rotors). Make sure you keep a note of any spacers that are present between drive shaft and disc - these are there to set the camber angle. When you remove the discs, there may also be spacers. These are there to set the disc position in relation to the caliper, as the disc must be centralised to the caliper. The differential output flange is secured by a big nut on the diff output shaft. Once this is undone, the output flange can be removed, and the old oil seal "winkled out". Be careful when putting the new one in, you don't want to damage it or the lip seal.

Make sure everything goes back in the orginal order of assembly.

Hey Frasier-- Thank you for the reply. Unfortunately, I only posted the picture for identification purposes. I HAVE mounted the whole rear-end assembly in my project, only THEN did it decide to start to leak. I have swapped a few of these around, and know the dance with the shims (thanks for the heads up). This also has the dreaded "click" of play in the hub on the same side as the leak, so I think I will only tear down that side. I already have the bearing and seal for the hub (I hope), but I have never had to rebuild a stub-axle seal. Do I just replace the seal and O-ring or should I do the bearing(s) too?? MC

Here's a write-up on replacing stub axle seals


On replacing output shaft oil seal - XJ6 S3


Cheers
DD

Thank you-- helpful. I will report back someday when I get around to doing this and the outer hub bearing... some rainy day.

Hi

I have always found that with jobs like this if you think about doing something else too, (just because it is easy to do at the same time), that you never know where to stop. I would say leave the bearings out of the job. Unless they have run dry, then it is unlikely they will be worn out. Of course, if you're going to do 20k miles a year with the car, then do as much as possible at the same time. but if the car will only be doing a limited mileage, then fix when needed.

Sorry you have to take the rear suspension out again. You can do it in situ, but it's a real PIA if you do it this way, unless you have full car lift facilities.

Your 'clicking' noise may also be caused by wear in one or more of the universal joint (U-joint) races. While you have the differential assembly out of the vehicle, depending on age and kilometres/miles, it is a good idea to renew the universal joints at the same time.

Also, check the condition of the rear brake calipers and pads; the handbrake (emergency brake) pads sometimes separate from their backing plates due to age, brake fluid contamination and neglect, so be sure to check them as well as the exhaust system connections and hangers.

NBCat

I have actually rebuilt and cleaned up most of the assemblies (see pictures). The click I have is side-to-side play in the left side hub bearing. I bought the rebuild kit to do it, but since I am not driving the car yet, it hasn't been a rush. The stub axle leak is on the same side (which is convienient I guess), so I can rebuild it when I pull the half-shaft off when I fix the hub. I just have to order the parts to redo the seal on the differential... and set aside a day to do it. All the brake pads and discs are new.. If anyone wonders, the rear end assembly is in a 1936 Chevrolet. Luckily the mounts are all custom, and it isn't in the "cage" anymore, so a little easier to get to. Mark

Ordered the seals and bearing kit today. I will let everyone know how it progresses when I get around to doing the repair. Thanks for the help! MC