Hello. I just got my Jaguar delivered today. She's an '86 VDP w/ ~100k miles on the clock. Overall I fairly pleased. The body and interior are in very good - great shape. The A/C is fairly noisy. Not sure if this is normal or if something like a leaf is stuck in the fan. Also, when I first tried using it it blew pretty hot air out, but I tried later and it seemed like after rotating the fan speed switch it started working. Does this sound like a common occurrence?

My interior lights (gauge lights) don't work, but all other lights seem to.

The most annoying thing now is that the engine will occasionally shut off when I am coming to a stop (once when I was just slowing down for a sharp curve). If I put in neutral she fires right back up. Is there some sort of switch/relay/sensor that is supposed to regulate the engine speed when coming to a stop? If I shift into neutral right as I come to a stop the engine rpm picks back up to ~1000 and it never died on me, but I don't want to have to do this all the time. Any other ideas?

Thanks for the help!

Eric

 

Not normal.



Rotating the switch probably cleaned the electrical contacts




Check the #8 fuse in the left side fuse box. It might be blown or, more likely, the end caps are corroded. It could also be the dimmer rheostat. Sometimes they die or just need a cleaning. You might be able to get it out by removing the trip computer (which just wriggles out from the front). If not I'll give instructions on removing the panel




I've fought this on a few.

There is no electric idle control. Is your idle speed is about 900 in park? If not, it'll need adjusting....which is a little tricky. I can give instructions if it needs adjusting.

Make sure the throttle body is clean and the throttle blade is set to the proper .002" gap.

Cheers
DD

 

Ok, here's the latest...

A/C (and heat) still acting up (and noisy). Yesterday went for some more drives and it cooled sometimes and didn't cool others. This morning when I wanted some heat, I got some A/C...

Spot on about the #8 fuse. Looked in there and there is no fuse. In fact that fuse location looked like it had some melting in the past which is probobly why they removed the fuse. I'll have to dig deeper into that one.

Idle - still acting up. I got some info about adjusting idle up and proceeded to remove the AFM, air cleaner and bellows so that I could access the allen screw to bump up the rpm idle. I did this and she seemed happier, but the engine has still died a few times. Now with the car in gear idle is about 800 rpm (it was ~700rpm). The stalling has occured without the A/C in use (I was hot enough already). I will adjust again to bump it up some more. At rest and with the tranny in "P" the idle is ~950. Engine cold or hot, it seems to be the same.

Another issue I noticed: the voltmeter seems to come up slowly, especially from cold and even when it is at max it still sits just below the 13 mark. Is this normal or a sign of a weak alternator?

Think that's all for now...

Thanks for the help!

Eric

 

Check for vacuum leaks for the stalling problem. They will drive you crazy.

That is weak for the alternator, but use an external gauge or have the Autozone boys use their battery and charging system tester. Most in dash gauges are not that accurate.

 

While driving home from work (~30 mins, mostly highway) I was cruising along ~70mph and the engine died on me twice. I could slide into neutral and restart immediately, but not fun.

After getting home I went ahead and adjusted the idle screw again, but I was beginning to think maybe some sort of electrical issue.

After adjusting the idle screw I noticed the right side (looking from the rear) S-shaped tail pipe extension was at a different angle to the left so I laid down to rotate back to a similar position. When I did this I could then see that the pipe was crimped. Enough that I would guesstimate it was ~75% restricting flow on that side of the exhaust! I unscrewed that piece and went to the local parts store to get an extension. The only thing they had was straight. I went ahead and got it thinking better than nothing for the short term and will get a proper piece soon.

After installing, I took her for a spin. First thing, the car certainly had some more pick up. This is my first XJ6 (first Jag as well) so I didn't know exactly what to expect, but I was underwhelmed at the acceleration before. Now it feels more normal. I'll take her in to work tomorrow so we'll see how it goes.

Thanks,

Eric

 

I scaled back the idle some so it's around 1000rpm in P or N and 850rpm in D or R. The car has still died on me a few times. Seems to be mainly within the first few minutes of starting the car. After that she does fine. Sometimes I'm coming to a stop other times I'm rolling down the road in a straight line. I tried wiggling the wires I saw under the hood/bonnet, but nothing changed that I could tell. It has happened on either tank.

On the A/C, it sounds like my A/C amplifier is bad. There is a listing for the amplifier on ebay (item 220348902053). Does anyone have any experience with this seller? His price is $300. Is that a good price?

A little on my back ground: I do like to work on my cars, when I have the time. This is my first Jag, but I've had other British cars before, Triumphs and MGs. I currerently have a '56 TR3.
Thanks again!

 

Does anyone have a right side (looking from the rear) exhaust, S curve extension they'd be willing to sell?

Thanks,

Eric

 

Here's the OE with the rolled lip:

http://www.motorcarsltd.com/CAC4332.html

I have an aftermarket unit that does not have the fancy rolled lip. The AM unit is $20.63. I don't have a picture of this one. I have one of each. Hope you don't need the pair.

 

I thought I'd offer a follow up on my issues listed above for anyone in the future who may read...

Most everything is square now and here are some results:

For the random engine cut out issue, it turns out the AFM was causing my problems. Under the black plastic cover on top of the AFM is a rheostat looking arm that was loosing connection sometimes which would then cut fuel resulting in my engine dieing. The arm tension was retightened and I have not had anymore issues.

For the random heat/cool A/C, I swapped the amplifier out for a new one and all is well. I did have to recharge the system, and I am cool now, even in near 100 degree F weather.

I have taken care of a number of other items in the name of preventative maintenance - tightened timing chains, replaced hoses, new fan and fan clutch, fixed exhaust leak, installed tappet hold down kit, etc. and have been driving daily to and from work (~30 miles one way). So far so good.

What is everyone averaging in mpg? Just curious. I'm pretty consistant with 15-16mpg average (60-70% highway driving).

Thanks,

Eric

 

Hi Ronin

Glad you found the little hidden switch in the Mass Flow meter. I had this problem way back in the 90s and it took a long time to track it down. This little switch causes nothing but trouble and is only there as a safety thing, so the fuel pump does not run when the engine stops even if the ignition is on (as in a crash situation). As it failed on me at 75 mph in lane 3 of a fast dual carrageway in North Wales, safe it is NOT !!!

Your fuel mileage sounds about right for a US gallon. I got 18 on the UK gallon.

 

Thanks Fraser. I agree completely. Cruising down the highway @ 70mph passing someone and having the engine cut out is not fun.

Anyway, do you know if there is anyway to bypass the switch?

Thanks again,

Eric

 

Never done it but I've heard that the switch can just be wired closed somehow. Or.....go the the AFM harness and jumper the pink/blue and brown/slate wires to bypass it.

Of course you are also bypassing a safety feature as the pump will now run continuously whenever the key is switched "on".

I drove a Ser III for years. I usually got 12-14 mpg in city driving and 19-21 on the open road. In either case the higher numbers required a gentle foot :-)

Good work on sorting out all the various issues. A nice Series III is worth the effort.

Cheers
DD

 

I don't thnk it would be wise to bypass the MFM switch without putting something in its place. This would need to be some form of electronic detector that the engine is running. The existing one works off air flow, but it could equally be detection of ignition pulses, or some means of detecting that the engine is rotating.

 

Don't worry, I don't have plans to bypass it. Mostly asking out of curiousity. That was such a pain in the rear because it was not a consistant fault.

Anyway, now that it is sorted the car has been good to drive. I took it up into the mountains (Blue Ridge Parkway) a few weeks ago on a weekend day trip, and it was very enjoyable. I did have to kick it into 2nd gear going up the grade, but once there everything settled down. I sure do wish I had a couple more gears though. If my tranny ever craps out are there any options out there other than the John's car option? Which if I remember correctly is still a 3 speed.

 

Transmission is a Borg-Warner 66, and is just about unbreakable. I would live with the 3 speeds as the engine has more than enough torque to push the car along.

 

Hello Ronin!

I have the same problem of engine stalling on me.

Could you be a little specific of what to look for in the Air Flow meter
area, once I open the cover.

Walter Schuster
New Member

 

Hey Walter,

I will take a picture or 2 and also try and recall exactly what was done to solve my issue and post back later today or tomorrow. I know it is an annoying issue to have. Hang in there.

Eric

 

Eric:


Nice work in getting a good basic car and fixing it's ills, one by one. Very satisfying, huh.


1. My dash lights are dim and dimmer. So much so, that I can't tell the difference in day light!!! But, I did a couple of things. One or both helped, just a tad. Removed the trip computer. Easiest thing I've ever done on any critter. Squirted in some contact cleaner. Excercised the switch. I think Jaguars see that as a form of petting.
Like my dog, Coco.


2. I noted one of my "S" pipes was pointing in a different from the other. Not real bac, though!! I inserted a big pipe and pulled it in to place. Now balanced just right.


3. The cars have a vent under the rear valence. If your pipe was bent, I suspect that vent is squished. Mine was. Using a big old battered screw driver, I was avble to open it rather easily. Paint not bothered???


4. My cars idle at 500. But, my Jaguar is SBC powered. I suspect the DOHC is just fussy about idle and a fix is a faster idle speed.


5. Yeah, early on, I learned that the voltmeter was not only slow in reaction, but not very accurate. I made a patch cord to use with my VOM. A plug into the cigar lighter. Slick read volts in real time at various loads and rpm's.


6. The BW 66 is a well tested and executed design. The 2.88 rear ratio is a means
of dealing with the "missing" OD. As long as it works, I'd keep it.


I don't know if John has changed his thinking, but, he was against swapping in an OD, as the DOHC did not have the torque to pull it and the 2.88. But, many have used his kit and swapped in a 700 and report good results. .70 x 2.88 is indeed a high ratio!!!


6. Vacum does a lot of work in these cars. Checking out the hoses for poor connections, cracks, etc is well worth the effort. A couple of one way valves in he system. They can fail. Or be inserted backwards!!!


Carl

 

Walter,



Here is the inside of the AFM. The arm (in red) was bent. The swept area (in yellow) gets worn out as the arm rotates back and forth over it. By bending it at the green arrows, the arm starts tracking on a new, clean path and everything works as it is supposed to.

Hope this helps,

Eric

 

Thanks Carl,

Yep, it's nice to bring something back to the condition it was when new. Sounds like you've done alot with your car as well.

Take care,

Eric