Fan fluid coupling
 

Hi all

I'm wanting to take the main fan and fluid coupling out of my Series 3, it is seized, resulting in a direct drive, which causes the belt to slip above 3500 rpm... What's the best way to go about this? Does the fan come straight out or do I need to remove the shroud too? Any other things I need to know first? Any advice is always welcome, as always.

Cheers

It's been years since I did this job on a V12 in situ.

I recall *loosening* the shroud mountings to allow enough wiggle room once the fan/clutch assembly is unbolted. Actually, in thinking about it, I don't think the shroud can be removed before the fan is removed.

Arm yourself with some extra nuts when reinstallation time comes. It's a fiddly task and you're sure to drop some. Having extras topside will mean no scrounging around on your hands and knees looking for the ones you dropped

Cheers
DD

Dougs memory is about as sharp as mine.

I remember loosening the hroud, sitting it back "over" the fan, then undo the nuts and wiggle the assembly out.

Get PLENTY of spare nuts, its a V12, and whatever you drop will NOT fall out the bottom.

They will be collected when the engine comes out, as will the toolbox, with all the spanners that have been dropped over the years.

Many thanks Doug, I'll be on to that when time is on my side.

HA! The toolbox too, sounds like I got more than just a car then, already found a few odds and ends floating around, and lost a few washers of my own too...

This might sound a bit silly, but I'm stuck... For this fan and fluid coupling to come out do I need to remove the radiator again? I read (Haynes manual again) that there is a nut and washer on the front... How do I get in there? Or was it removed on later models?

Secondly, how does this thing come apart? I've removed the 4 bolts that go through the the fluid coupling, but I've no idea what they were holding onto? Nothing is budging yet... And I still need to get the 4 nuts around the pulley off, when there is space for them to come off... What am I missing here?

This "might help".

#2 attaches to #8 with #5/6/7.

Its #7 that will be dropped as mentioned.

#3 and 4 are what I think you have already removed, and that simply makes the fan floppy behind the hub. Nothing gained here at all.

Loosen ONE of the #7 until it will go no more, move to the next #7, and so on until the hub slides forward on the studs, then undo them all, and drop them, and the washers, and the hub will be free.

Refitiing will be a laugh a minute.

No need to remove that radiator, but it is easier with it out of the way.

There is no bolt up the snout that I remember on the V12, EXCEPT the very early steel fan engines, but that snap shot on the brain cells is dull, and I simply cannot find a parts drawing for that set up.

If I do I will return.

Forgot the attachment, bugga, here ya go.

Attachment 131008

Many thanks Grant, so that pulley just slides off the shaft? I don't have the washers on mine, but just one big spacer right around.

Is yours a ateel fan or a plastci fan?

Plastic fan, all out, thankfully, comes out with a squeak alright, thanks Grant! Next question, how do I free up the fluid coupling? How does this thing separate?

I hear they are filled with silicon oil... I'm pretty sure I've lost the lot... Just incase that turns out to be so, is there any substitute I can use? Gear oil? Just thinking out loud.

Nope.

Toyota down here are the only people that sell that Silicone Oil, BUT, if it is leaked out the seals have failed. It is a sealed unit, but there is sometimes a fill plug, and that is Toyota Landcruiser I am talking about. I have never seen a fill plug/bung/whatever on a Jag unit.

NBC2215AA is the latest part number.

The old part number is EAC7751.

Try a search on the ?bay for both numbers, you might strike it lucky.

Replacement hub is the only way.

When looking for one, any V12 HE will be the same, so XJ-S 1982 up to about '91ish will also do it.

Ah I see, total replacement then, I know a few chaps down here stripping for spares, worth a try. Thanks again Grant.

Nathan: do yourself a favour while you have this out. Your white (now very yellow) fan will have cracks radiating from the hub. If it does not, you need to send it the the Louvre as an example of a unique piece of modern art. You need to replace the fan with a new one because those cracks are dangerous when combined with a faulty viscous unit, and fixing the viscous unit does not necessarily obviate future failure. The disaster scenario is the cracked fan spinning at engine speed and flying apart. You do not want to know how much damage this causes to the Jaguar.
The new fan from Jaguar is black and has a slightly smaller hub with correspondingly longer blades; it is not particularly expensive and it is a direct replacement. I am not at my desk so I cannot tell you the part number but you should be able to find it easily.

The effect rather resembles a spray of shrapnel radiating from the fan hub. Not a pretty sight. Not cheap to fix either.
(';')

Many thanks Gregory, I'll do that, yes I've noticed a few cracks, and it is also yellow. I also suspect a seized fliud coupling can hurt gas consumption, she's a little under factory claimed consumption.

I agree 100% on that fan blade.

My XJ-S spat a fan at very high road speed, and a blade exited thru the bonnet, and the rest did very obscene things to the engine bay.

Hence the thermo fans fitment.

Nathan, don't mess with a ?able fan and coupler. As others have said, bad tings can happen. Been there, done that!
Example in my bits shed. Old A Ford four bladed metal fan, now a two
blade!!


Might be the time to consider e fans. I sure like the ones in my "lump".


Carl

Ah decisions decisions... I'm gonna go original, I'm a bit of a purist, so I may get a new plastic one... Got to think about this though, I can get 2 that came off another Double Six, so direct fit... Lemme sleep on this one. Thanks for all advice.

Nathan:


Do you suppose either or both of those are no better than yours?
If white original gone yellow, cracked like yours is a virtual certainty.


However, if either or both is a replacement black fan, that might work just fine.


A carefull look is a most.


When IO took my car apart it's white gone yellow fan was crazed at the hub. Lest it cause mischief, it went to the land fill. I had a buyer. but, nope I didn't send it.. I did have a new black one that was destined for the car. As it was getting lumped, not needed. I sent it.


Wow, the "jerk" stiffed" me. Only time, I've been ripped in internet
buys and sells. I know his name and town. Not worth any attention at the time. May he....


Carl

I've no idea, to be honest, what's worrying me too about those 2 specific fans, is the chap has 2 cars, one was overheating... So maybe those fans weren't up to scratch... I think I'll just save up for a genuine one. There's also the extra pull on the alternator to consider, it's hard enough at night with the lights on and the revs hovering around 1500rpm.

Gee, 1500 RPM is no big thing for the engine or it's
accessories. And, a whirring fan has no effect on alternator RPM.s


And, agree, hard to beat the real thing. although, added caveat.
New is not necessarily good, as it once was!!!


Oh, oh, I think my temp controlled Efans stayed on???


Carl