Front brake caliper part
1. check for debris. Clean with scotch bright and feel for any burs.
2. Are you using a line wrench? If not tighten up line using a proper line wrench and retest..
3. Line might be cracked becasue they're a friction fit. The process of loosening and tightening can twist the line and slip it especially if the tube nut rusted to the line. Might be time for a new line.
2. Are you using a line wrench? If not tighten up line using a proper line wrench and retest..
3. Line might be cracked becasue they're a friction fit. The process of loosening and tightening can twist the line and slip it especially if the tube nut rusted to the line. Might be time for a new line.
Last edited by icsamerica; Aug 16, 2019 at 06:29 AM.
Solved !!! Exactly the purpose of this forum.
I'm with ISO . Debur or replace.
I've been watching a lot of YouTube. Even better, New lens in each eye.. Last was a heavy truck mechanic and used truck dealer. Went through the process of making a new line. Demo'd two version of double flare tools. Advocated the coperized line. Better than old tech pure steel, and easier to work...
A couple of decades late for me. Made up old tech steel hard lines for the dual 94's on my Hot rod. Got them. Ruined a few feet to get to it...
JOKE: Remided of how many times he forgot the fittings before forming the flares!! Me too.
Carl
I'm with ISO . Debur or replace.
I've been watching a lot of YouTube. Even better, New lens in each eye.. Last was a heavy truck mechanic and used truck dealer. Went through the process of making a new line. Demo'd two version of double flare tools. Advocated the coperized line. Better than old tech pure steel, and easier to work...
A couple of decades late for me. Made up old tech steel hard lines for the dual 94's on my Hot rod. Got them. Ruined a few feet to get to it...
JOKE: Remided of how many times he forgot the fittings before forming the flares!! Me too.
Carl
I would like to publicly thank JOSE for providing me with the brake part I need to finish this project (hopefully). He went above and beyond for one of his fellow XJ members. I hope I can pay it forward sometime to him or someone else.
Thank you JOSE!!
Thank you JOSE!!
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Humiliation is a Very good teacher.
(';')
I am not sure you can reproduce the flares in that break line with the regular flaring tool.
one end has a concave flare, the other end has a convex flare. (the opposite of concave).
I have no clue how they are fabricated. Maybe a brakes specialist knows.
also I have no clue why they need to be hard steel. Why not flexible / bendable ?
one end has a concave flare, the other end has a convex flare. (the opposite of concave).
I have no clue how they are fabricated. Maybe a brakes specialist knows.
also I have no clue why they need to be hard steel. Why not flexible / bendable ?
Jose:
Indeed, there are flares and double flares. One tool merely flares. OK, sort, in a non critical part.
Another, using dies to refold the flare. I call it double flare. Essential in brake lines. Here we find simple ones and more complex ones. I've a simple one via Harbor freight. Check their catalog or just google double flare or brake line flare tool. Used mine to splice in anew end for my PS pressure hose.
Each of the hard line types will bend. The copperized, easier than the pure steel.
I see the choice as both safety and cost driven. As to flex, I see them in rubber coated and braided cover.
For my roadster, I used my Hf double flare on the brake lines as well as for fuel. I was tempted to use the braided lines. but, not contemporary with the theme of my roadster. "Hot rod of the 40's'
I did veer reluctantly. An alternator not a generator and use of 12 v negative ground not the more likely 6 positive ground!!
I used Edelbrock heads and recalled the hot start issues of old with 6 and more compression...
Carli
Indeed, there are flares and double flares. One tool merely flares. OK, sort, in a non critical part.
Another, using dies to refold the flare. I call it double flare. Essential in brake lines. Here we find simple ones and more complex ones. I've a simple one via Harbor freight. Check their catalog or just google double flare or brake line flare tool. Used mine to splice in anew end for my PS pressure hose.
Each of the hard line types will bend. The copperized, easier than the pure steel.
I see the choice as both safety and cost driven. As to flex, I see them in rubber coated and braided cover.
For my roadster, I used my Hf double flare on the brake lines as well as for fuel. I was tempted to use the braided lines. but, not contemporary with the theme of my roadster. "Hot rod of the 40's'
I did veer reluctantly. An alternator not a generator and use of 12 v negative ground not the more likely 6 positive ground!!
I used Edelbrock heads and recalled the hot start issues of old with 6 and more compression...
Carli
At the moment I've exhausted all my resources to get the new SS flex line that I got from SNG Barratt working with either my old caliper hard line or Jose's provided line. So... in the interest of getting her back on the road again... I installed the old rubber flex line to my old caliper hard line and it doesn't leak. This will give me time to figure this out and still drive the car. So I'm not closing out this post as done yet.
The old and the new both look the same, but looks can be deceiving when under that kind of pressure. I think I'm going to go the Flaretite route. But I need to order the correct size. In the meantime, it sure is nice driving her again!!!
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