Fuel cell going in & a few other things
 

Amongst all the other on going projects with the car, I got to do this one. I know I have not talked about what I am doing, as it is constantly on going...well as much as I can physically do.
But the two big current projects are the removal of the dual tank setup & all the switches, wiring, etc that go along with it & replacing the floor pans. I am making the pans from scratch out of 18ga sheet steel.
I have to have it all done this week because next week I have my knee surgery & will be out of commission for about 2 months.
I also added a remote oil filter kit.
If there is more interest or anyone has any questions about what I have done I will post as much as I can.
Here are some pics.

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Was able to get the floor cut out today. Now I am making a sump cover. Tomorrow I have to pick up some electrical connectors, seal up a lot of the holes. Then paint it up & make it pretty :D

http://media6.dropshots.com/photos/3...3/b_132255.jpg

got the trunk painted & sump cover on. Just have to bolt it in & hook up a few fuel lines.
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Looking good 85XJ6. How will you fill it with fuel?

BTW good luck with the knee.

Keep updating the project.

Cheers,
Richard

Exactly what I want to do with my S-Type. I love how the fuel cell fit perfectly

Thank You. Just pop the trunk & take off the red filler. When I get to the body work. I am filling the stock locations & then on the drivers side I am installing a Fuel Safe 2" flush cap. So I will fill it..obviously from the drivers side.
Thanks for your well wishes. It is going to be a long road to recovery but worth it. Been waiting over 10 years for this. I had to leave the country in order to get any medical help from my injuries in the military...go figure. Stateside they paid me for being hurt, but denied anything surgical(only meds). I come to Panama & they approve EVERYTHING.

Yep, for the cost of repairing the fuel system & the fact that this cell just looks like it was made for this car..it was a no brainer. Plumbing the lines is pretty easy. I am using the right tank return & had to drill one hole for the hose. I mounted the pump on the rear valance (between where the factory tips come out). The filter is mounted where the factory right rear muffler would be(exhaust is going to exit out where the side valance tank drain holes are). Hose is run through factory hole to the factory hard line in the trunk to the factory fuel line(minus the block right after the filter). I am building the car for HARD street driving. So looks take a rear seat over function.

Here the car is worthless of value(but this car has an assload of historical valve..but monetary is worthless), so spending gobs of cash is in short..retarded. Will never get it back. No full coverage for cars over 8 years old here($105/year for coverage). If someone decides to break out all the windows... Oh well, insurance will not pay for it. Why would I spend $1100+ to fix fuel tanks..THE CAR WAS $800..LOL

I am having fun with it, while still maintaining as much of the SIII looks & feel as possible.

The regulator got here today, along with the crank case evac kit.

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Sir you may have inspired me, good luck on the project and good luck with your knee!

Just thought I would update.

I started the car today. Sounds great. Just need to up the idle & a final adjust on the regulator.

Still going through physical therapy with my knee & it is going wonderful. Feeling great.

Next on the agenda is adding a new(new to me) fuse block.

Talk me through the remote oil filter part. Im quite intrigued by it.

You have done great work so far. Hope you feel better soon.

it could not be simpler. The hardest part is mounting the remote housing(it comes with easy to read & follow instructions. Just make sure to order a 3/4-16 filter).
I got this one because of the hose length, the extra bit of cost was worth it to me as it was EXACTLY the length I needed. I cut it exactly in half & was perfect where I put it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-10695/

This is the filter...(But ANY 3/4-16 filter(Standard Ford filter) will work)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KNN-HP-3001/


As I said it is SIMPLE.
You do not need any extras the kit comes with. Out of the box, only the block adapter, remote housing, lines & clamps. The ring adapters & big flat block adapter are not needed.


1. Just like replacing the filter. You use the new o-ring(lube with clean oil), spin it on just like a filter & tighten HAND TIGHT. Block side is taken care of..SIMPLE.

2. Figure out where you want to put the remote housing(just make sure it is within HALF the length of the hose). I chose right behind the bumper. VERY easy to get to & protected by the bumper..NO... rocks WILL NOT puncture the oil filter. Then mount the housing. On the XJ6 the support only has one hole you can use, but you can buy a small piece of 20ga or thicker sheet steel to make a small template....or you can ZIP-TIE it..whatever you choose. ZIP-TIES will work. Because the support behind the bumper is pretty wide, but just not wide enough for all the bolts.

3. Cut the lines. Out to in...in to out. MAKE SURE IT IS CORRECT! It is clearly molded into the cast of the parts so you cannot say that you did not know.
Put some clean oil on the new filter & install the filter.

4. Start the car & check for leak.

NOTICE!! You will need to add AT LEAST one extra quart of oil!!!

here are some pics of the kit..

http://media7.dropshots.com/photos/3...0/b_133213.jpg

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http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92...g?t=1277513550

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Wow that is absolutely fantastic! Im definitely going to do this when I get mine running again!!

Does that go in front of, or behind the knee? LOL

Good to hear all is going well, car/health.