Am making good progress with the conversion to the EZ-EFI 2.0 fuel injection. The S3 filler caps, new tanks and high
pressure lines are installed. The new Pollak six (6) port changeover valve and it's relay are in place.

Today I cut the two inch hole to run the wiring for the ECU and hand held -- it is all in place inside the car now. The
final place to bolt the ECU is still up in the air... I need to be able to see the front for the LED lights and the
whole interior is out as I am going to get a bare metal paint after the conversion is done.

The wiring loom under the hood is in place now and a lot of it will fit behind the Optima battery. The throttle body,
coolant sensor and fuel pressure regulator is ready (I need to bolt the fuel pressure regulator to the fire wall). The CD box
CD box for the spark is on the way now and should be here this week.. a little ordering screw up!

The new distributor is installed at TDC and it will be controlled by the ECU for optimum performance. The heated
02 sensor is in place and the wires connected.

This afternoon I will run the wires for the fuel pressure sensor and inline fuel pump in the trunk. Then all the
wiring for the relays for the changeover valve and the rear trunk portion will be done.

Soon after the CD box arrives and I get it installed --- I can start the car! It will be interesting to see how much
better it runs/starts and stops with the modern fuel injection. I expect more fuel economy with the fuel
injection and 2-4 MPG is not unheard of in these conversions.

The tablet that controls the setup and gives real time information is now ''stuck'' onto the glove box door!

Just remembered I have not taken any photos.. will do so and post the changes very soon.

 

This is very cool, I'll be eagerly awaiting the results of this project.

 

Is there anything even remotely engine related that you might possibly have missed modifying, Roger?
(';')

 

Roger:


Yeah, look forward to pictures.


As to the ECU/PCM location. My LT1 is
cased in finned aluminum and able to
live in the engine bay. I decided not to
mount it on a wing wall as many do.
I created brackets to suspend it from
the wing braces. I like that neat
finned aluminum in view. Much slicker
that the triangular chunk of plastic that
served as a sonic dampener. Mine "w
whooshes nicely when I put my foot down....


Alternately, if the box is not "engine bay
safe", under the left seat is a safe place
and there is a big portal in the fire wall
to accommodate all the required wires.


Carl

 

Lnrb


If I have missed anything, it will get done later on.. wipers are the next thing to work on... Jaguar wipers are painfully slow on both speeds and almost
work better when off. Rain X works better than the wipers... if it rained a lot in Southern CA I would have fixed it earlier.

 

Personally speaking, I really loath these "Bolt on" fuel injections system, They are expensive and many simply act as carburetor replacements with the only benefit being limited self tuning. They have great marketing budgets behind them that makes them seem better than they are.

The effectiveness of that self tuning benefit is limited to what camshaft the engine uses. For example, if one chooses a cam shaft with a Lob separation angle of 110 degrees it can limit the self tuning ability. That LSA is generally considered ideal for a SBC but not computer compatible and will through off the wideband O2. So usually with these self tuning systems, a cam shaft with a LSA 114 to 117 is recommended. In the hot rod community a LSA of 108 to 112 is considered ideal for a broad torque curve on a SBC. Wide computer compatible LSA's make the motor peaky which is OK on modern power trains that have 6 to 8 gears and thus can keep the rev's in the sweet spot but not ideal for legacy items.

IMHO for a SBC or LS engine it's best to run a GM FI system. For example on a SBC using the 1227730 ECM. A complete setup ECM, harness and intake, injectors etc can be put together for about $800.00 to $1000.00 and you get more features. Proper fuel, spark and proper TCC control, knock control, dual fan control, A/C clutch control and speedometer calibration. As for tuning, a 100$ device called the Ostrich 2.0 allows USB flash programming of the ECM using any laptop. You can even run Distributor-less ignition with the 1227730. The 1227730 will even handle boost simply with a reprogram and the addition of a 2,3 or 4 bar MAP sensor. Further more the torque production of a TPI intake using a GM FI system is still impressive these days...with figures commonly near 500 Ft/lbs on a mild 383. You are not gonna get there with a dual plane carburetor intake and wet fuel injection system.

If you dont want to make it a DIY project there are many vendors and hobbyists that offer ready to run solutions with a base tune for just about any setup.

For the advanced, there are many patches for the 1227730 ECM that can be used for wide band integration, NO2 control, water injection control, launch control, and shift lamps.

So rip off that 'marvel of modern marketing' and install a TPI setup, your back side, TCC & A/C compressor will be glad you did.

 

I looked into all the older FI GM stuff... decided to go forward with the new stuff. It was time to get rid of the Q Jet that had been so heavily modified while trying to get all sorted out..

I do have the Comp cam with 110 lobe separation, 470# torque already and over 300# from 2000 RPM and up ... not doing this for power but drivability and hopefully more economy. I put in the 2:88 LSD already - took out the 3:31 LSD and have a good trans (200R) with high 4th OD (lower rpms in 4th than 700R). Just want a car that starts right up all the time and shuts off in the different weather patterns... I just drive it around town and it is not going to be used for performance contests --- I am well past those events at my age.

Sometimes you have to spend more to get more... it has all the goodies that you mentioned .. time will tell about how well it works... it is almost done now. Plus, no computer is needed - tuning can be done from the tablet. The learning mode will handle 99% of what I want from the injection system.

I had another S1 with LT1/700R and do not want anymore GM fuel injection and their crazy Optispark. My opinion was the GM fuel injection was not sophisticated but it did work.

If I was to do the Jaguar V8 conversion today, I would go with a new Mast engine, LS7/LS9 and modern 6-8 speed trans.. but I did this all in 1995 - removed the already tired 350 V8 and 400 trans and upgraded to my new ZZ4 short block, with different heads and cam.

 

I stayed with the GM stuff as well. The Jag with 2.88 gears will never see high RPMs so I wanted something reliable for low rpm operation and lots of torque.
I went with a 1227747 ECM with a ASDU chip for TBI injection. KISS

I used the harness out of an old Astro van with a 4.3 v6 and the ECM from a 1990 5.7 liter (350) V8. (has the ASDU stock chip. Plugs together.

DIRT CHEAP - works great !! I love Pull a Part salvage yards.

Not as flashy as TPI with all the spaceship intake runners etc. with a 1227730 ECM, but a rudimentary 1227747 ECM and a reliable TBI system. Built for low speed engine operation that will come from using the 2.88 gears. Actually I have all the bits 'N " pieces for a TPI system ecm and all,...but wanted the car to be as reliable as possible. Tired of working on the damn thing - time to drive it. Using a 1990 4l60 trans with OD. All I wanted was torque and super quiet low speed operation and good gas mileage for highway cruising. 65 /75 MPH is good enough for me (still got my license) no tickets. Have ALDL receptacle attached right under the glove compartment. and my old laptop plugs right in for trouble shooting.

Have built an AUX fusebox with all relays now sitting inside it. Makes for nice wiring setup . Neat.

 

Roger and Alyn:


Your technical abilities and the applications on each of your critters exceed mine. But, I've learned a lot in many places, and hope that trend continues!!!


I do now that the "sweet spot" on the cam that matches where the critter is driven most often makes the driver happiest.


My somewhat primitive and boxy 4.0 powered Jeep does that. Peppy and cruises nicely at 2000- 2500 rpm. all in at about 80MPH!!!
It's trip computer is fun. Watching MPG in real time sees that "sweet spot". Some amazingly high numbers result, stomp down and the numbers become abysymal (sp)!!!


The GM engineers are pretty smart. Optispark included. Early on in my quest to get my LT1 to fire up, a new one was installed. so, I think I'm good for the long haul. I kept the used one and suspect it is just fine. Misdiagnosis caused the new one. They are "fun" to install in situ, been there. The early ones had an issue that was resolved by adding a vent. Still later ones are more sophisticated, OBD II style.


My power train came from a 94 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham. A really big and heavy car with a 3.09 rear differential ratio. The "cast iron head" version of the LT1 used here, tuned for torque, somewhat at the expense of HP. The alloy head version used in Camaros and Corvettes tuned best there. More HP, less torque. Much lighter cars, huh!


So, the 2.88 in my car is close enough to the 3.09 and the GVW's are probably similar. Good match.


Result, my 83 is a pleasure to drive. good jump off the line and cruises nicely at 70-80. And still has punch there in OD. trip computer is "nuts" as is the speedo so, MPG? But, the seat of the pants, ie "wallet" sense is good.


I did have an option of a TPI from a Vette at the same price. As I had just lost an alloy head engine, I was gun shy and wanted iron on iron.


Were I 10 or more years younger, I'd like to try an LS engine!!!


I have an after market scanner. My ADL is in the engine bay. I've only used it a few times. somewhere I have an EXCEL sheet with it's numbers. It was extremely useful in getting the SMOG referee to give me a "pass"!!! got dig it ut and plug it in, "for the fun".


No Laptop in those days. I've one now. I wonder....


My relay rack and ground buss is reconstructed. Thanks, Alyn! Looks neat.


My after market "custom" harness came with an auxiliary fuse rack, actually two, paired up. I hung them on the wing brace. Easy access.
So far, so good. Blew a FP fuse once. Cooked relay caused it. Amazingly, I found it easily and fixed it in the same manner.


My car is purring. I am pleased and proud of my accomplishments.


Old lap top, huh? Mine ain't new....


Regards.




Oh, oh, got into the next box!!!




Carl

 

Carl,

In order to get the Trip computer working accurately, you need to modify the interface unit's output to the trip computer. in order to do this you need to change some electronic parts inside the interface unit, so that it can correctly calculate the quantity of fuel per injector pulse going to the engine's injectors at various speeds of the car.
As well you will need to view the whole system as consisting of several items that work in conjunction with each other. The trans provides a signal to the transducer, the signal then goes to several places including the speedo, the cruise control unit, the interface unit, the trip computer, interval counter. An injector signal comes from the ECU to the interface unit. These items provide speed / distance info and the amount of fuel being sent to an injector to establish a baseline then the interface does the math and sends the correct info to the Trip Computer for display as required.

I am using all of this circuit with the only mod being the interface unit base frequency. Gets a bit complicated at this point and you need to find out what the base frequency is for your particular injection system, Be sure the items in the loop are all present and functioning correctly at 8000 pulses per mile (Jaguar's standard that was used with the original engine) Lots of info on internet "Jaguar interface modifications" As an example , with the jaguar 6 cylinder system, the interface gets a signal from the ECU, it is the value of 1 of the 6 injectors fuel flow and does the math against road speed of the car, and duration/frequency of the injector signal ..does the math for display.

The key to my swap is I did not disturb this system, but I needed a 2000 ppm signal for the 1227747 ECM ...I got it by using a pass through VSS And then substituted the 6 cylinder Transducer for one from a V12 . The V12 cars used a GM transmission and the transducer's thread is 'GM" .....bolts right on. Now I have the info for the GM VSS on the ECM and the intact Jaguar speedo system info coming from a GM trans (700R4).

 

Fortunately, I do not have a trip computer or need TCC connections for this system. Went through all those kind of problems with the LT1 hookup. No speedo problems as it is mechanical and
the V 12 Tach has already been converted to modern internals. All the dash and instruments have been converted to LED bulbs for good visibility.

Mine is just lack of Jaguar space for the components.. dual gas tanks and one inline pump that needs to be gravity fed... spare tire is a PITA and getting all to fit properly is time consuming. Should have gone to a single custom fuel tank in the upper trunk area... in tank fuel pump would have been much simpler and the same price as the two new tanks - lock one fuel cap up and only use one to fill up 24+ gallons. Hindsight is so wonderful...

The under hood fuel hoses etc is all done... a few more wires to hookup yet and the new FAST E92 coil did not arrive yet... ECU and CD box will fit inside the car (they are there now) and the needed wiring run outside.

TV cable for the 200R trans is hooked up now and throttle cable and return springs. All the needed vacuum hoses are attached for the brake booster and PCV valve plus the one needed for the fuel regulator. With the same air cleaner on it will still look like a carb to most people.

Block off plate is installed where the old engine mechanical fuel pump used to live.

Fuel regulator is mounted to the passenger fender well and all the new FI hoses attached with AN fittings, the FP gauge is installed. Still need to wrap the fuel line hoses with the heat proofing material but could not order it until I knew the hose lengths etc. Covering them will keep the exhaust heat away from them as they are moved as far away from heat as possible..

Photos still to follow as some things were still not settled on until today. Want to get the wiring all in place and covered with the proper loom material so the photos do justice to the work.

 

Alyn:


Clever. somewhere in my voluminous Jaguar lore, I have a treatise on the
mating of the Jaguar trip computer to GM data.


The conversion kit I used included a box to interface GM pulses to Jaguar pulses.
The after market harness lead me astray as to where to splice it in. The box is
actually a Dakota Digital product.


Were I to dig in to the electrics again. I'd consider repurposing that box to
match GM pulses to the Jaguar trip computers needs. The friendly Dakota
digital tech told me, it probably could do that.


I do have the stuff you gave me and others as well, + a "box" to match speedo output from the PCM to the speedo. Deferred for now. the Jaguar purrs.


Roger, dyslexia got mew for a moment, a post back.


Correction:


Put the PCM/ECU under the RIGHT front seat. A port in the firewall is handy there.


Rainy today, outside work deferred.


Carl

 

To all contributors to this post:
I have a second Series 3 Jaguar which I want to convert to a GM Powertrain.
This is what I have so far:
GM 350 Engine: I rebuilt this motor.
Transmission: 350
Conversion Kit: Johns Cars. This was on a donor car. Since I have this, I am not interested in purchasing another kit at this point in time.
I am in the process of converting this engine to TBI and I have acquired the following:
ECM: 1227747 and a complete harness from a GM 1500 van.
Intake Manifold with TBI Unit.
I still have to get all the sensors that I need.
Right now, I am trying to sort out the wiring harness to eliminate the wires that I don't need. I had to cut out the wiring for the Diagnostic connector from inside the vehicle and I need to know where to connect it to the ECM harness.
Need some help from someone who did the TBI conversion.

 

This should help...look for the ALDL on the left-ish side of the diagram
1227747 ecm diagram page

Different view...
https://docs.google.com/a/gjrcpa.com...bkU/edit?pli=1

 

Still have a little more to do, finish up the trunk with new changeover valve, finish wiring the two relays and mount the inline fuel pump. The wiring for the pump is in place and ready to go.

Then hook up the fuel hoses to the fuel pump and the changeover valve... still waiting for the new coil for the CD box to arrive.

 

Sanchez I have done the swap you are trying to do. 350 TBI 1227747 ECM (I used a 700r4 trans and would suggest you do too to get the best from the system. Low RPM steady smooth power.. A late model (1990 or so) called a 4L60 is best).

I would pay attention to the factory chip - get a ASDU chip (yours may be good - open the ECM and have a look ) meant for 350 with auto OD and a diff ratio that is close to the Jags 2.88 (3.07 or so)

Get to know the ECM !! what pin is connected to what and why - not too difficult.
But I think the best advice I can offer is to get a good overview of what you are doing.

The information you need is extensive ,..not difficult but extensive.

You have to be calm and organized or madness will ensue..especially with the EFI wiring.

Contact me at alynmurray1@gmail.com and I will try to walk you through it.

But first do not start cutting wires (either the Jags wiring or the GM harness wiring,.. ***** nilly. there is a method to this madness and where / how you start will make or break the project. Its a matter of getting organized and starting out properly. Avoid cutting Harness wires - disconnect them and label them ...remember this is a factory harness being converted and some wires are not needed. So separate them and label them coil them up and place aside. Eventually you will have the ECM with 2 empty plugs and a bag of coiled up labelled wires for different circuits. that was my first step.

Bottom line is you will need to splice the 2 systems together and understanding where best to do this,.. is key. I can show you a good method.

If you learn how to release the individual wire ends from the plugs that are attached to the ECM ..life can get a lot easier. Use a very small tool.. I use the small screw driver that comes with eye glass repair kits to release the tangs on the metal wire ends inside the plugs. One has A1 to A12 and B1 to B12 ... the other plug has C1 to C16 and D1 to D16 you need to know what they do. Then LABEL every separate wire so you know what circuit it is for,...very important !!
For instance the 1227747 has a Green/white wire on A-1 -t is used to prime the injectors when the key is turned to run/start etc. it goes to the Fuel pump relay. etc.
Knowing what a sensor or wire does will help so much. Try to avoid getting to the end of the swap without a lot of "yeahbutts" .....you know "the car runs "yeah but" then a list of problems are cited of what still does not work, usually mumbled in a low voice starting with "yeah but,..." as the reality sets in that the car is now a pig with wires everywhere...and you are lost...

So if you want / need help email me.

 

I guess my posting has become a general discussion on GM fuel injection?


If this is so interesting, why don't you make a new Thread and it can be expanded?


I personally find it a little boring - outdated technology versus modern stuff that does not need "pins" moved and stuff cut and joined.

 

Ohhh...touchy...."Boring...Start a new thread"...sorry we interrupted your commercial.

EZ-EFIis modern stuff??? Really? A throttle body on top of of carburetor intake on top with a cable driven speedometer on a engine designed in the early 50's is not modern in any way.

Modern would be more than a 4 position triggered wheel, sequential injection and coil packs.

 

We will see just how modern it is ,..when the trouble shooting starts. My guess is it will be a bear to make it idle smoothly with good transition and then run properly. . no "check engine lights"..You can not beat factory EFI for an everyday use in a street driven car. Hope you know how to reprogram and you understand fuel maps. Poor attitude.. a mind is like a parachute ...only works when it is open....New thread time....

 

Ouch?


I'll just wait to see and not comment on anything here for a bit.


Carl