I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

Hello everyone. This is my first post on this forum.

I just bought a 1983 XJ6 yesterday. I was not planning one one, have always had a thing for the Series III, this one showed up and now as a single car I have ended up with a third vehicle and it is definitely a project. It has 106,000 miles on it and had not been on the road since 2000. The engine starts right up, dones not smoke, is very smooth and runs good.
So here is the list of things that don't work:
[ol][*]No brake lights[*]No turn signals[*]Trunk lock broken and unaccessable[*]Only blows hot air[*]Wiper intermittent does not work[*]Speedometer stopped working on the way home[*]Serious scary play in the steering wheel[*]Then there is the transmission. It shifts into Reverse and Drive no problem. When I get going it seems to hold first gear and will not shift until I let of the gas, then I am not sure if it shifts into second or third. The shifts themselves are very smooth though and trans fluid level seems fine.[/ol]I also found a really cheap donor car for this project. It is a 1984 that was converted to have a Chev 350 drivetrain but the engine and trans have been removed. The rest of the care is in very good shape.

So besides the shings on the list and anything else you all would recommend that I look for I am also wondering if the donor car can be converted back to a normal XJ6 since it has a much better body.

I know you guys would ask WHY???!!! But it is a project and will not be a daily driver. I have two other reliable drivers. I agree it makes no sense at all but I would like to make one good car out of these two. I am fairly mechanically inclined and have tools and a garage to work with. I already have the shop manual on CD on its way so where should I start? Thanks in advance.

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

start by replacing all the fuses, they might look good but they might not be good.

then check all the light bulbs, replace them in pairs, not one only.

trunk can be opened removing license plate and sticking long needle nosepliers through the right lower hole and pulling the catch lever up & down.

only hot air: could be out of gas, could be the a/c amplifier, could be a clogged expansion valve.

wiper switch needs overhaul:push the wires behind the switch forward one by one, follow directions in Shop Manual for access to rear of switch, until you find the wire that controls intermittent, then when it does come-on, you know which wire to wedge. A piece of nylon tie strap works fine as a wedge.

speedometer transducer located in transmission, check the wires/connections.

play in the steering wheel or in the Rack ? (side-to-side movement of the rack).
rack bushings,install red poly bushings and bracket fix sold by www.johnscars.com

transmission: could be the cable needing adjustment, wait for the Shop Manual to adjust.

If you change engines from one car to another you end up with a non-Matching Numbers car. If you don't care about that, then go ahead. check the '84 to make sure they didn't alter the engine mounts by chopping them off.

Jose

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

Thanks Jose, I will start to check on things.

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

I have been working on it all last week. This car has the electrical system from hell, but I guess it is part of what gives it character. I still can't seem to get the brake lights and the turn signals working. I have been going through the fuses and have changes them all. I am considering putting new fuse boxes in since I am not happy with the contacts. I cant seem to raise or lower the driver's seat either. Power doorlocks dont work either. I was also told that there is a possible valve issue with these engines. Any preventive maintenence you recommend? I have also decided to keep the car and engine together. It wil need more body work but I do agree with the matching numbers thing. I also need to bleed the brakes. An procedure recommended there? They sent me the wrong manual on CD. It said Series III on top but upon startup it had Series I and II. So I am waiting on the replacement. Thanks again.

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

someone else complained about the wrong Manual sent- if they don't get their act together I'll stop referring them. I already wrote to the owner of LBCarco about this.

Brake lights: do the driving lights come on? but not the stops? could be the brake pedal switch, they are repairable if you are handy doing electronic surgery, otherwise the only way to find out is by substitution, so if you have a parts car, remove the switch from the other car and try it on the one you want to keep.

the turn signals is another story - the factory Electrical Chart has an error in the Hazard Flasher wiring, so do not mess with it or you will regret it!. It's the only error, the rest is good.

Again, those 3 function (Turn Signal/Cruise Set/Headlamp Flasher) switches can be repaired, some minor surgery required. Wait for the Manual and follow the removal steps to the letter.

The driver's doorhas the Master Control for all Power Door Locks, you will start there. Wait for the Manual.

Jose

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

The car is now looking good but I still need to get a few things working. We got the turn signals working but the hazard switch itself is broken and it is loose inside so the hazard does not work. Where can I get a new hazard switch? What is the error on the manual?

The brake lights are still a mystery. The swtich works and power comes through the switch but the brake/stop lights still do not come on. There are wiring diagrams on the shop manual CD but when you zoom in to try and read it is not readable. Is there a way to get the brake wiring schematic for the car? Most of the running lights are now working except for the ones at the very front on the bumper. The turn signals work but not the running lights. Any words of wisedom?

I also need new rubber for the front windsheild. Should I get them myself, remove the windsheild and then have a pro put it back? What do you recommend?

I am also going to replace the brake booster and master cylinder. Any recommendations on how to bleed the brakes? I have a bleeder that pressurizes through the resorvior.

Thanks again for all your ongoing advice.

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

I also am having another issue. Whenever I give the car more than half throttle it tends to loose power alomst like it is getting flooded. Any place I can make adjustments? I am going to make a new thread with this issue too.

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

hi,

the Hazard Switch looks like the picture below. contact Ken at Motorcars Ltd. for a replacement switch. (there is a link in this site).

If Ken does not have it, I have another source.

the part that falls off is the Switch Cover/Handle because it has two little pin "ears" that break,the cover falls off, and the inner contact plate falls too and always gets lost, because when you see the little plateon the floor, the reaction is always "what the h*** is this?"

When you getthe new switch,first orient the switch correctly and reconnect the wires one by one as they are in the old switch base. If the Turn signals are working, the wiring in the Hazard Switch is correct. So don't bother with trying to fix the wiring, it doesn't need it.

I would recommend removing the steering column "Nacelles", (the upper and lower black plastic Covers). You might alse remove the entire stalk switch for better access, but that's getting into serious surgery.

BRAKE LIGHTS:

remove thetail lamp Lenses, (four #2 phillips screws), then remove the chromed tail lamp assembly, (three #3 phillips screws). Inspect the rubber Plug connecting the Tail lamp housing to the wiring harness, twisting the two halvesand pushing them together to make good contact.

-Check the Stop Light Fuse inside the car.
-Check the bulbs to make sure you have double-element bulbs at the top position of the tail lamp housing.
-Check theBulbs to make sure they are inserted correctly into the socket.

TIP: if the foam Seal between the tail lamp Lens and chrome housing is deteriorated or if there is no seal, you can use the black vinyl, crimping seal, used in House Window Screens tostretch and secure the screen to the frame.It works perfectly and waterproofs the housing.

TIP: download "Foxit Reader".Small programbutfaster than the giant, annoying, and slow Adobe Acrobat Reader for reading PDF Files, as in the Shop Manual CD. Before you install it, make sure you uninstall Adobe Acrobat Reader, then restart the PC, then install Foxit. You should be able to ZOOM the electrical Chart to any level without loosing resolution. Another tip is to go to a Staples and have it blown up to Poster size like I did.

Free Foxit Reader download here: http://www.foxitsoftware.com/pdf/rd_intro.php

Jose

[IMG]local://upfiles/1235/F856E175333E4BD4B69B22C244E7F18C.jpg[/IMG]

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

You can buy the switch here:

http://www.motorcarsltd.com/item.wws...p;sku=IN100177

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

I have been reading up on the CD about the transmission. I don't think I have second gear. It holds first for a while and if I back of the throttle completely it seems to shift into second but as soon as I give it even a little throttle it back to high rpm in first. But if I let it accelerate in first until about 3000+rpms and then completely let off the throttle then it goes into third. Have I lost second?

Reading the CD I guess you can loose second and there are some adjustments to do to get it back as part of the troubleshoot pages in the CD. Was an interesting thing to see. My trans filter kit will not be here until Tuesday do I will service it then and see if it helps. Are there any 4 speed trans that fit this car in case I need another trans?

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

it really sounds like the fluid is very low.

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

The fluid level was between the marks. Hot and cold. I still added a half quart to make sure but it still made no difference. It just does not want to hold second. The manual says if I have no second I need to:
[ol][*]Check front brake band adjustment.[*]Check front servo seals and fit of pipes.[*]Strip valve bodies and clean.[/ol]Now I need to figure out how to do those things.

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

well I hope it's nothing very serious like an overhaul. But overhaul kits are available in several websites. Those BW66 are pretty reliable, so yours could simply need adjusting as you mentioned. Here's one of the sites:

http://www.drivetrain.com/jaguar_dt.htm

Just a friendly reminder: these Series 3 cars are very heavy, we've lost a few owners who did not take precautions while working under their cars. Make sure that you have plenty of support when jacking up the car, and plenty means more than you think you need, in strategic places. Never use the tire jack to keep the car up while you work under it, they are known to collapse, kaput!

Jose

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

I hope it is an adjustment too and not an overhaul. But if I have to I have to. I looked at the link. Which kit do you recommend for th rebuild?

You are right. It is a surprisingly heavy car. I got a couple hydrolic jacks and heavy duty jack stands that I used to hold up my 26 foot boat that I will use. Thanks for the advice.

I still havent figured out the speedo issue either. The electrical connections under themselves seem good. Could the gearing within the speedo be bad since I can't seem to reset the odometer.

I will try the adjustment, hope it works.

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

very heavy cars, like 3,300 pounds I think.

I would call those people before ordering anything, they have more experience selling the BW66 kits, I have none. Explain the problems you are having, they might know where to go from there.

you can't reset the trip mileage meter to zero? probably the spring inside, just remove the speedo, (push it in and turn it left until it releases), then open it up watching for any tiny parts that may fall off. I bet it can be fixed, it's just a mechanical clock movement.

If not that, then it's the Speedo Transducer mounted either in the transmission or at the differential. you'll have to check with Ken, it depends on the car's Serial Number (VIN). I think 1983 is a changeover year.

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

If I am right I think they are more like 4000lbs. My Audi A6 is about 3600lbs.

I went to move the car to adjust the trans front brake today and it started for a bit then idled real low for about 30 seconds and then died. Now it will not start. It is a fuel delivery issue since it starts with starter fluid. Yes there is gas in the tank. It think it all ties in with the power delivery problem. I will tinker with it tomorrow again and then I think it might be time to take it to a pro. Oh well.

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

check the Fuel Cutoff Inertia Switch, sometimes they tripp. look it up in the manual, located on the passenger side, below/behind right corner of dash. Push the button down to see if it clicks. If it springs backs, it is not tripped.

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

The inertia switch was fine, but now it does not even start with starter fluid. I am lost for now.

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

giving up is easier than to keep trying....

gounder the right front fender. you'll see the Charcoal Canister and the fuel vapor lines.

One fuel vapor line coming from the tanks andgoing to the Canister has a black plastic check valve connected in-line. One hose is bigger than the other on each side of the check valve.

BIG DIAMETER HOSE >>>> PLASTIC CHECK VALVE >>>> TO SMALLERDIAMETER HOSE TO CHARCOAL CANISTER.

Disconnect the BIG DIAMETER HOSE from the check valve, the one coming from the tanks. then try to start it, let me know if any change.

RE: I just bought one. Many questions, feel free to laugh.
 

I tried disconnecting the big diameter hose from the check valve and it still would not start.

I played with it a little more today. I have no power coming to the fuel pump. I swapped the inertia switch the parts car and still nothing. Then I bypassed the switch and ran a wire straight through. Still no voltage at the leads to the pump. I do hear a clicking towards the front and the back as I disconnect and reconnect the plug to the inertia switch but nothing at the pump. Do you think the overpressure sensor for the fuel injection system has anything to do with it?