After 2 years of searching, I finally located my Grandfather's 1987 XJ6! He purchased the car (I'm told special order by my Grandmother) and drove it until about 2001. The car was sold at auction and lost for all I knew. We tracked it using the VIN# and finally located and purchased just a few days ago. The car hasn't been registered since 2003. Currently, will crank and idle but cannot be driven due to parking brake being engaged and untouched for over a year and stuck engaged. The previous owner has replaced the calipers and rotors on front. My plan is to drop the IRS and replace calipers, rotors, parking brake and whatever else that should be replaced while the cage is out. Could anyone send quick answers to the following questions? Feedback, tips...

A) Shocks recommended? I see calls for Boge but Boge seems to be a bit difficult to find.
B) Did the XJ6 in 87' have white wall tires or black only (typically from the dealer)?
C) What major points of maintenance should I plan to tackle to include rear brake overhaul and shock/strut replacement?

Thanks! I look forward to sharing the progress of the car!

 

What a great find and on two levels. Hard to beat that. It sure looks superb.


While many have dropped the IRs and refurbished it in varying degrees, I'd ask myself it were really necessary.


1. Is the parking brake stuck at the handle In the cabin? If so, getting down and under and disconnecting the cable at md point or even at the rear might release a bind and allow the handle to be twisted and pushed forward. But, of course, that does not mean that the pads are no longer in contact with the rotors.


2. The "odd" device that contains the pads and the levers to operate them Might be freed in situ. Disconnect the cable and attempt to work the lever.


3. Removal of the "odd" device for a bench rebuild is quite feasible.


4. When the calipers on my car went beyond a seep, I replaced them.
I decided, I was no longer up to that. so, I hired it out. Rebuilt Calipers from Rockauto and $600 bucks to a shop to install them. All good, except. But that tale has been told.


Keep us posted on the return to the road of that beauty.


Carl

 

Once you are passed the brakes, cooling system top to bottom.

 

Shouldn't be. Last time I looked there were many EBAY vendors selling them. I suspect Jag specialists will have them as well. I fairly sure FPR Euro sells them as well.

They might be sold under the "Sachs" label as well, with "Boge" taking secondary billing on the packaging


Technically they may have been optional but as fas as I can tell ALL cars all USA-bound Series III cars were equipped with whitewall tires

Cooling system, as mentioned.

Personally I would do a FULL major service. Change ALL fluids and lubricants, all filters, repack front wheel bearings, full tune-up (plugs, wires, etc)

Replace all under hood fuel hoses and carefully inspect all others

Check steering rack bushings....they'll probably need replacement

Do it all, do it once, do it right...and put it out of your mind for a few years

Whenever working anywhere on the car take a few minutes to clean any and every electrical connection, fuse, and ground point that you find. In so doing you'll preemptively solve about 80% of the much ballyhooed "Lucas, Prince of Darkness" problems


And we look forward to watching. Sounds like a great project.


Cheers
DD

 

Glad to have you on board! The car looks great, with a little love and
patience you will have a good working car.

If you have any questions just give me an e mail.

How many miles on the car?
Walter

 

Hello RWGaddy...
I'm in NC too... If you run into any issues, need any advise, or need parts, I'll be glad to help you out.. I'm near Salisbury....
You can email me anytime at david@everydayxj.com

Cheers,
David
shop.EverydayXJ.com

 

So I've begun working through preparing the IRS to drop. I am having trouble understanding how to disconnect parking brake cable from IRS. The parking brake isn't stuck in cabin and both parking brake actions seem to move at the rear calipers. What is the best process to remove the cable from actions? I fiddled with the springs last night but worry I could break them...

 

I have to laugh at myself as bit. As many times as I've removed the parking brake cable I can't really describe the method. I guess it's just one of those things I do somewhat intuitively, with no thought.

Anyhow.....

As I recall the RH side actuator arm is pulled inward, towards the center of the car, while simultaneously pulling the cable outward...away from the center of the car. This should allow the cable end to be disengaged from the actuator arm.

If not, you can slacken the cable at the adjustment point....which is, roughly speaking, below the driver's seat.

Others will chime in.

Cheers
DD

 

hello and forget Boge, they are low quality shocks and way too expensive.

try Monroe Sensa-Trac shocks. Inexpensive, sold at all auto parts stores, shop around for lowest price. These cars came from the factory with shocks made by Girling UK, for a medium-soft ride. Girling UK was the equivalent quality of Monroe USA.

Unless you want a back-breaking ride, sort of like The Flinstones car, then install Konis and regret wasting the money. Forget Bilstein, they leak in no time. So my point is, if you start out with inexpensive shocks, you won't have much to complain about later and you can spend more.

But if you want to really spend the money, try the SPAX shocks made in UK.

and don't forget to get a fresh Interstate battery, with the most cranking amps you can fit in there.

 

Since you will have to disconnect it to lower the IRS, replace the brake hose.

Then replace the 2 front hoses.

 

Nice car!
I would recommend a good engine car wash as well as chassis under side.
Its much easier to see everything.

The shocks are easy to replace later on.
Check the radiator cooling.
Walter