intrument panel lighting failure
 

I've lost illumination for speedometer, tachometer, oil pressure, coolant temperature, fuel and alternator charging gauges. I'm having a difficult time removing either the speedo or tach gauges by turning the gauge rims counterclockwise to check the bulbs. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Try putting on some of those cheap shop gloves. They don't slip like bare fingers do. Also, try pushing the gauges in slightly and then turn. Mine require that trick and it took me some time to figure it out.

Really though, if you've lost all instrument illumination, it sounds more like a fuse, which I don't have the slightest idea which one it might be as mine aren't properly labeled.

Mercan cars I grew up with had the instruments and tail lights fused together but I don't think the Brits do that.
(';')

Dave...

On some tough speedometers, I've had luck using a roll of duct tape pressed hard against the speedometer, and turning. It get's a little more leverage, and you can apply more pressure.
You can also remove the underscuttle casing, or dash top, to allow you to get your hand behind the instruments to help turn them..
Keep in mind that the small gauges actually have nuts and brackets on the backside, some one and some two, to remove before the small ones come out..

Cheers
David
Everyday XJ

Yeah, kinda neat. If the dash lights are out, go check the tail lights, probably out! safety is good. I am only aware that GM cars have/had it. Not sure about others.


Would've been nice if my Brit car had that. I don't know how long I drove around sans brake lights, til a kind motorist alerted me. The warning lamp ap[parently doesn't apply to the brake lights


Oh, older USA cars used one bulb for turn and brake. I never thought that was so good.


It does take strong fingers to do the push and twist on the tach and speedo.


Carl .

You didn't say what year....
 

On my 1987 XJ6, I lost all illumination for the same guages. Before you start ripping into your dash to check something that isn't there, if you have anXJ6, try this: Remove the radio, lay down in the driver seat and look in the radio opening, and you will see two black screws that hold on the trip computer bezel, take them out, remove the bezel. remove your dash light dimmer switch (don't unplug it) and place a jumper wire across the two power terminals and turn on your headlights. I bet the panel lights will come on as well. Jaguar dimmer switches are....well... not so great with age.

AHA!!
Good thought, Marvin!! I'll remember that!
(';')

Check the rheostat, if its toast they Can be bypassed

Yes. Always "bright", then. Mine works, but I leave it at beoight. Lower means lights out!!!


And, my trip computer slides out easily. No fastener?? It works, sorta. But, what it's numbers mean, because of skewed V8 data is a mystery. There is a way to fix it, but, like so many other things.....


My TV had been misbehaving. Elinor's percussive maintenance suggestion didn't work. It needed several off/on cycles to get the picture to remain. Interestigly, at first, the picture was blurry, but got better each time til it was decent. But, heck, the thing is at least 20 years old!! So, I checked with my cable provider's tech support.
The gal seemed mystified, but suggested a new cable converter box. OK, why not.


I got around to the install. Eliminated the VHS box. Haven't used that in a decadse at least. Kept th kinda old DVD player. It doesn't play Blue Ray, but heck I just found out waht that was a month ago or so!!


Followed directions. Nope. TC to tech. OK, on. Later, oh, oph, broadcast chnnels only, no ball game!! anther call to a tech. messed with it til It works. I am told it will take some time before all features appear. But, WOW, the new box is HD, and the decent picture it formerly had is replaced by a really sharp one. And the new box is about a third the size and much lighter. Now, old gear to be disposed of, including a bunch of cables.


Now, if i can get the flywheel off the 1932 RotoHoe's Lausen engine...... The threads on it's crank snout are buggered. Gotta figure out it's threads and get a chaser.


I've ton of taps and a few dies. Of course, nonme of the dies is the right one. son says keep the die off. Only a chaser!! or it is junk....


Most of shrub massacre slash now cleaned up. A ton of old rotted leaves remain. Compost/mulch???


Carl


Carl

coudamau -
Did you ever resolve this problem and if so did you determine the cause? Bad dimmer switch or was it simultaneous bulb failure? All of my lights went out simultaneously today and after double checking all fuses, I can't determine the cause. Turn signal indicators and bright indicators still working but no speedometer, oil pressure, tachometer, fuel, temp., or battery illumination.

marvin -
Is removal of the trip computer the only way to access the dimmer switch? If so, could you describe in more detail where the two screws holding it in place are? - maybe it was my aftermarket radio bracket getting in the way but I didn't see the screws as you described them there.

If this unit is faulty and the cause of the illumination problem, which part would I need to replace?
The parts manual I have shows two parts there - what looks like the knob and the mechanical switch it rests on. I'm assuming I need the latter (part no. DAC 1902) part is that correct?

try rotating the Dimmer from zero to 10 a good number of times, it's probably corroded in place, rotating it sort of cleans the contact area, similar to a scratchy volume potentiometer which can be cleaned by rotating it.

John, the aftermarket radio bracket is hiding the screws. On the pdf you supplied, the two screws will be on the lowest vertical section of the bezel, farthest back shown near the dimmer switch. There will be one below the two switches on the left, and one below the two switches on the right. Notice on the pdf that there are two tabs on the top of the bezel. When you remove the two screws, pull the bottom of the bezel out a little bit and the bezel will drop down/out. The culprit is the DAC1902 (in the dotted lined box) I made a simple jumper wire with two female blade connectors and a short piece of automotive wire and placed it on the the male connector you can see fully, and the one the DAC1902 number is pointing too.

John, I've set the illumination problem aside for now. Tried some of the suggested remedies without success. Will return to it later. Dave

Jose,
I gave your remedy a try but no success. Thanks for your interest. I'll just have to keep at it. Dave

ok, but the chances of all those bulbs going out simultaneously are null & void.

I would check all fuses first, especially if it happened all of a sudden.

Haha, I must have posted at least 4 thread now that appeared to be a complicated wiring problem, that merely turned out to be a combination of my own inattention to detail and fuse holders/wiring.

After I installed a new dimmer switch, no lights still.
Then my wipers cut out while driving so I went to fingerroll the fuses to bring it back to life. When I did that, the wipers popped back on as did the illumination to the speedo, tacho, oil, etc. I encourage anyone with the same problem to open their driver fuse box, turn on key and lights and then just gently roll or press the fuses in order to see if it comes to life.

Another problem solved! I've noticed the little fuse clips on several of my fuses getting a little loose and causing intermittent electronics failure. Anyone have any experience either replacing the little brass fuse clips or just the entire fuse wire box? The wiring on the backside is tight but the brass clamps that hold in the fuses have become loose.

John,
Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try. Sometimes the simplest remedies work the best. Here I go with some "finger rolls"

yes, those brass contacts tend to either become corroded or lose their "spring tension".

you can reshape them or tighten them using needlenose pliers while holding the rear wire and contact, then bending the front back inwards to shape. Make sure you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the fuse box screws and pulling the fuse box outwards.

in the past I've used a paper nail file, the side with the fine, non-coarse grain, to clean the contacts.

the irony here is that this problem does NOT happen with the original fuse box in my 1965 S type, only with the 1984 XJ-6.

Thanks, Jose. I'll approach the project with care, caution, and a disconnected battery. Some 2,500 grit sandpaper might help clean the contacts as well.

speedometer
 

hey guys
its help time again-my 2004 jaguar xj8
im trying to remove the wood front that goes arround the clock and the spedo-i pryed out all the press clips but the wood piece will not come out cause in goes down behind the console and i cant raise it enough to slide out-
??? do i have to remove the console-i know if i did that it would come out-im tryin to see if there is an easy way out-
thanks guys
and happy new year to all
dave della

Dave,
this forum is the wrong one for your car.

this is your forum: XJ ( X350 & X358 ) XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR