Hi,

Please i own a 1985 Jaguar XJ6 which i imported from the USA in auction as NON RUNNING car. On arrival i notice one of the fuel tanks is leaking and also the car starts but fire stays for less than a minute.

I need to know how i can remove the fuel tank and also get the fire to stay on.

I hope hear is a place to have the solutions to my car's issues. Please help

Thanks

Mike (GHANA)

 

Welcome to the forum Mike,

I've copied your question from New Member Area - Intro a MUST to XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.

Graham

 

Thanks Graham

 

First off, I can tell you I have done this job !

Removing the fuel tanks is not a quick job.You start by removing the side bumpers, which means, as I remember, you have to remove the rear bumper. This then allows you to get to the upper side bolts holding on the lower quarter panel. These panels are held on with a series of screws on the lower face, the bolts on the upper face, and screws accessed from the rear of the wheel arches. These latter are normally completely covered by underseal, and can be very hard to remove. Once you have the 1/4 panels off, the next job is to drain the tanks. NO SMOKING whilst you do this, and no flames anywhere nearby. Petrol fumes are heavier than air and can creep along the ground and could find a flame and flash back if the conditions are right.

Next job is to remove the petrol filler caps. These are a complete PITA to remove. YOu remove the four screws holding them on and then pull them out from the top, except the are normally pretty well stuck in, as there is an 'O' ring to make a seal. The whole shebang is a Mazak casting and corrosion is your enemy.

When you've done all that, remove the circular covers within the wheel arches so you can get at the fuel return pipe and disconnect it. Then take off the rear light clusters so you can get to the fuel level transmitters and disconnect the wiring.

Are you still up for this job !!

Now disconnect the fuel supply pipe that runs from the inner side of the tank to the boot. You'll have to take the fuel pump cover off to do the other end.

Now undo the securing screws in the side of the boot. This leaves one securing bolt that goes up vertically and is used on re-assembly to hold the tank when refitting it so you can put the other bolts back. This is a long bolt and you'll need a bit of assistance to make sure the tank doesn't come tumbling down when the bolt is finally loose.

 

follow the step-by-step instructions of the Service Manual, don't try to guess.

here's the instructions:

 

It could be a hose, gasket for the fuel sender or???... I have found that taking off the side valance allows you to see all of the hoses easily...

You can remove JUST the rear tail light assembly and see the fuel sender...

Tanks are readily available but you do have to take apart all the stuff mentioned above... the fuel cap removal is the worst part... wiggle that cap side to side and apply rust removal liquid along the sides...and try to pry up without damaging the paint and denting the fender... a small pry bar helps with wood between the fender.. I have done this six times and it is no fun... but be sure of where the leak is first... could be just the double drain plug on on the bottom!

 

I just removed a tank from my 73. There is a pin holding the cap to the base with the four screws. You can drive the pin out with a flat tipped punch. this leaves two stubs and I used two vice-grips for leverage. As mentioned above, spray liberally ( I used PB Blaster)
and let it soak in for about an hour. I began by using a small hammer against the vice grips to move it side to side. Once it began moving, I pulled up on the vice grips as I hammered. All in all, it worked pretty easily. I don't know about the 86 model, but the only other thing I would add is that on the 73, I had to remove the silencers with the tailpipes in order to drop the tank. I will be eliminating the silencers and use straight pipes.