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Negative camber that can be measured in inches rather than degrees looks bl@@dy awful in my opinion, as does something like a 10" wide rim with something daft like a 195 x 30's stretched onto it.
Nix is quite a bit lower than standard and I like it that way. Handling was Noticeably degraded with new tires with stiffer sidewalls that kept the car only 1 inch higher but that was enough.
Side by side with a "standard" Series Jag, they look like they're on tippy toes by comparison.
When I go back the Michelins (215/60/15 as before) it will again look a bit menacing; like a slinking cat on the hunt.
(';')
The fronts though seem a bit more complicated - Same measuring required to be able to use an adjustable coilover damper but I suspect the existing damper mounting points (top and bottom) wont necessarily be strong enough to then take the spring load and damper load together ?
Soooooo, my question is, has anyone dealt with this or know's someone who has to save me from reinventing the wheel so to speak ?
Ok so i took the wheels yesterday to have a proper look around. The top mount would be fairly easy to strengthen as i could plate this from the engine bay side.
The lower arm mounting point though looks a bit more complicated as there looks to be a small light ish gauge bracket that the damper bolts to which in turn is bolted to the lower arm. I could get a pair of new brackets made up using thicker gauge metal but im not sure if these will be strong enough ???
Here's a picture to better explain. Think i need some new bushes too !
Any thoughts would be great !
Cheers
Darren
Last edited by pnwrs2000; 09-14-2015 at 04:14 AM.
Reason: Picture added
I like my cars a little lower as well, this one I simply removed the shims and spaced the spring plate down using 3/8 nuts and suitably longer bolts. 215/70 15 s on 7" wide rims with no change to offset on front and 245/70 14 s on 8" rims no change to offset on rear. No change to ride height on rear, did have to pump the rear guards a bit.
The top of the front shock mount is the one you will have trouble with if you go firmer dampers, I plated the underside to spread the forces further. This car handled superbly and still rode well. All up cost hand-full of nuts and a bit of plate to reinforce with. Lowest point was about 3" under the front cross member.
I like my cars a little lower as well, this one I simply removed the shims and spaced the spring plate down using 3/8 nuts and suitably longer bolts. 215/70 15 s on 7" wide rims with no change to offset on front and 245/70 14 s on 8" rims no change to offset on rear. No change to ride height on rear, did have to pump the rear guards a bit.
The top of the front shock mount is the one you will have trouble with if you go firmer dampers, I plated the underside to spread the forces further. This car handled superbly and still rode well. All up cost hand-full of nuts and a bit of plate to reinforce with. Lowest point was about 3" under the front cross member.
Looks good and low. That woulnd't work here in NYC, too many road craters. In any case I love front bumper treatment. I'm gonna borrow that look on my next XJ coupe project.
Looks good and low. That woulnd't work here in NYC, too many road craters. In any case I love front bumper treatment. I'm gonna borrow that look on my next XJ coupe project.
again this was a cheap tweek, retained the end bumper irons and used stainless bolts to dress it up and save welding up the holes and a piece of exhaust tube between the front mounts, removed the head light surrounds, removed the vertical center bar from the grill, matte black it all to reduce the bling and it gave it a totally different look
I'll be lowering mine VERY slightly after swapping in the LS1. I believe since the XJ6 used a separate spring pan, you can use spacers like on a MG midget as
in this image.
I'll be lowering mine VERY slightly after swapping in the LS1. I believe since the XJ6 used a separate spring pan, you can use spacers like on a MG midget as
in this image.
That's the method described in the earlier linked postings....and that has been popular for years.
To my eyes it always looks like the pan is not well supported; I'd want spacers with more contact area. On the other hand, it's hard to argue with success
Hey Red, i like your sled. The stance is just right, and the wheel wells are completely full without going to oversize tires. If your car was much lower it would be hard to drive since it would be bottoming out and scraping too much, emphasis on "too!" I like the front end treatment, a nice mild custom modification, a great look. I drove slammed Buick Riviera fot years and it is a fine line from just right to just too low.
My current '97 XJ6 sits with the top of the tire sitting inside the rop of the fender well. That's the way i bought it. Maybe it's just tired springs but it looks just right to me especially if I have the gas tank full which brings the rear end down a bit.
Thank you Rivguy, agree there is a fine line, that car has done it's fair share of grading on gravel roads, difficult to get "the look" and still have enough ground clearance.
I wouldn't worry about aluminum ones "mushrooming" over time, as the kits sold for MG's are aluminum and they aren't under any compression force. The bolt holds them against the spring pan, not the weight of the car. Remember that in the car the spring pan mounting bolts are in tension as the bolt holds the spacer (and the spring pan) against the force of the suspension spring. Just torque the bolts correctly and you'll be fine.
Also, at nearly $10 each for (12) for the stainless, I'll sooner make my own on the lathe, however you can also get steel ones at Home Depot for about $1.50 each, in various sizes that should work:
I wouldn't worry about aluminum ones "mushrooming" over time, as the kits sold for MG's are aluminum and they aren't under any compression force. The bolt holds them against the spring pan, not the weight of the car. Remember that in the car the spring pan mounting bolts are in tension as the bolt holds the spacer (and the spring pan) against the force of the suspension spring. Just torque the bolts correctly and you'll be fine.
Also, at nearly $10 each for (12) for the stainless, I'll sooner make my own on the lathe, however you can also get steel ones at Home Depot for about $1.50 each, in various sizes that should work:
YES they are under a very large and varying compression force of the bolt holding the spring pan up and need to remain that way so the bolt doesnt fall out or cause a spring pan rattle. There is a BIG weight and spring rate difference between an MG with a 4cyl or LS engine and and Jag I6 or V12.
Also the ID is all wrong on those alu spacers. They can move around and wear unevenly and then all the load would be offset to one side and then they could compress at and angle which could cause a bolt to sheer.
I just wouldn't use alu in this case. Just seem like false economy when the correctly sized steel spacers are a no gamble solution that are available or can be made from flat stock at a very low price.
Those HD spacer are the incorrect size. There has been some discussion and confusion on these forums whether or not the spring pan bolts are 5/16 or 3/8. Posting the incorrect size spacer adds to that confusion. They are 3/8 fine thread.
09-11-2015, 10:50 AM
