Hey all,

Have a S1 XJ12 with 350/350 conversion.

I just have a few Q's to make the car more drive able and user friendly.

First off, my dash lights are pretty crummy. I'd like to do a LED conversion so if anyone could point me in the direction of the globes and parts i'd need, it would be greatly appreciated. I've found the dash light switch but even on low and high it doesn't make a great deal of difference.

My next problem is two-fold (probably 3 fold actually). The fuel gauge doesn't seem to read properly. I flick between left and right tanks and the gauge moves, but i haven't seen it go above half tank on either tank. I filled the left tank completely up and it went to about 1/4. I believe the floats take fuel in and won't read properly, is this correct? I'd like to fix this as soon as, so are replacement floats able to be purchased or is it just fix what I have?

Next off, the previous owner told me to just use the left tank as the right one didn't work properly.The car has a low pressure Goss facet pump fitted in the boot. I assume when I switch between L and R tanks on the dash, theres a solenoid that opens and closes to switch between tanks. Is there any faults known that would stop the R tank from supplying fuel?

Now, the last part is that the trip meter and odometer is broken, so I have no real way to judge fuel. I would like to swap speedo units over to a KPH speedo, but not critical, so am I able to swap between S1/2/3 cable driven speedos or am I limited to S1 only?

I guess I should just quickly ask 2 other things, what steering wheels are interchangeable? Id like a smaller, thicker wheel. Also, what other wheels are the same stud pattern? Id potentially like to sell these Simmons wheels and look for some spoke wire wheels.

 

Firstly welcome abord.

The LED's, NO idea, someone cleverer than me will sort that one.

Floats MAY be brass, and soldered, and repairable, its been a looooong time with a S1 for me. If not, they be plastic stuff, and also repairable with care. Maybe still available, BUT, at the end of the day a float is a float is a float and a Champagne cork work, until the fuel ate is away. A float from basically any car could be adapted very easily, so the local wrecking yard would be a top shopping place for me.

The fuel solenoids give little trouble in the big scheme of things, but old age is now your partner. Sounds like a bit of altering in that area has taken place, so back to basics would be a good place to start. The tank you were told NOT to use, may only be aleaker, and there is nothing wrong with the plumbing.

Not sure on the S2 speedo, but I reckon it would be a simple enough fit.

Steering wheels, not sure now, but back in the day there were plenty around, and adaptor kits were plentiful.

Road wheels, again I forget the S1 stud circumference, but 120.65 rings a bell, and is unique to Jag. Some fitted GMH and Ford whells, but that circumference is out by the 0.65, and stud stress is now taking place.

Others will chime in when the time zones align, or the beer runs out.

 

As Grant said, welcome aboard. Many questions in one thread makes for a confusing outcome. It would be easier to search for the answers first or list your questions in separate threads to keep the answers straight forward.
I read your questions a while ago but new grant would be along before I typed my answer so left it for him to kick off.

As for the dash lights,bright is dull and dull is shocking on mine! I would like to see a response to that one.

 

Yeah sorry for the Q's I assumed they were all basic stuff and would be common problems.

Fuel gauge is my main issue, so I'll attack that over next weekend and also have a look at the plumbing and see what's happened. The R tank doesn't leak, it still has fuel in it. I'm assuming there is something like a changeover relay in the back that operates a solenoid, perhaps it's not working on one side, so only the fuel in the line is running through. When I have more time and backup, I'll flick to the R tank and go for a drive and see how long it takes to cut out, that way I'll know if it's just using fuel line fuel, and fuel bowl fuel, or if there is actually fuel coming out of the R tank.

Re the dash lights, I'll be playing around in the car tomorrow with a stereo, so I'll pull some gloves and make a note of what I have. I'll also give everything a clean with compressed air.

Re steering wheel, that might be a long term thing, the hubs on eBay are about $200 and then extra for a wheel. That's used TH700 money so I'd rather spend it on that.

Re the wheels, yes, 120.65 I though was correct also. Previous owner told me same as Commodore but from memory they're 120.00 as they went to a metric pattern, but Kingswood are 120.65 so I'll look through some wheel magazines. IMO not many wheels work on the early cars, I'd really love some wire wheels and white walls, but again, $$$. I'm thinking I might go I to a Superlite 16x8 and a red stripe sidewall wheel.

 

1.Here are some pics of my boot plumbing after I had a bit of a tidy up.




2.IMO the stock rims with higher profile look superb, Suit the series 1 perfect.
It would make your lump a real sleeper!

 

Stock rims are definitely elegant. And it's got to have a big sidewall, nothing worse than low profile tyres on a classic. I would like to see a photoshop of some superlites and red walls, though, I wonder if anyone on the forum can oblige?

Cheers for the pics, I'll get into my boot eventually, work, kids etc push everything back plus I need to empty it first.

 

Tach and speedo lights are normal = very dim. Solution is to replace with LED bulbs.

Fuel gauge has a Voltage Stabilizer on the S1, metal can located near the back of the gauge on the drop down panel. Should provide around 10V at
the two gauges it controls. Can purchase modern ones from the UK.

Fuel tanks on S1 have the fuel senders in the rear wheel well. Jack the car properly and support it, remove the rear tire(s) and then the screws
retaining the cover(s). It has a brass ring that can be beat off and then the sender can be removed (wires are attached). You will need a NEW fuel
sender gasket for each side.. do not try to get by without replacement.

The fuel senders resistance can then be checked over the whole range of movement and the you can confirm the float is not full of gasoline.

Steering wheels are a matter of person preference, but the Jags feel better with a thicker wheel and smaller OD. I have a Grant Signature wheel on
my '71 and like it better than the skinny wheel on the old '72.

Wheels are XJ40 wheels that are wider and same stock tire size... I use modern directional tires.

 

Hi Roger, thanks for the help.

I've decided to do a full LED upgrade, I'll shortly remove all gauges and globes, do a thorough clean and replacement and have a crack at fixing the odometer in the speedo.

I've had to divert to other electrics first, I'm putting a stereo in this weekend, and trying to make the horn and hazards work. The hazard problem I'm certain is the switch, the horn I'm not so sure yet, but I'll dig deeper.

I drove today for about 3km on the other side tank and it didn't splutter, cough or stop so it may be fine now. The gauge is still inaccurate, so when I have more time I'll check both senders. Wheels need to come off soon for a clean, so perfect time.

Yes, definitely agree with the wheel needing to be smaller and thicker. I'd like a leather wheel, though. I'll check for a boss kit soon.

 

I used a combination of S3 speedo and odometer parts to make my S1 unit more accurate. I had changed the rear end ratio to 2:88 and S1 Jaguars did not come with that ratio.

Jaguars solution was to use a different head with odometer and speedo parts that matched the rear end ratio. This was that way until they changed to be like the rest of the auto world.

Just another learning experience... at least you have the V12 tach that goes to 7000 rpm.. I had to get one and then have it converted eight cylinders.

Front hubs on S1 are different from SII/SIII and the use of different wheels needs careful checking/fitting. The bolt pattern is the same but I had to use a spacer and longer lug nuts to allow the fitting of the XJ40 wheels. Also had to space out the upper steering arms to allow clearance on the back side between the tire rubber and tie rods ends..

 

Nice car, n o question!!!


1. I never use a horn. so, the one in my car isn't hooked up!!! I may mess with it at some time. Places to check:
A. Brass contact shoe on the steering column.
B. Brass rod under the steering wheel
C: in line fuse on big brown wire behind the battery
D: Horn relay at left front of engine bay
E. The horns may be just stuck because of the lack of use. A whack oftenb restores them.


As to the hazard. In many critters, it is just lack of exercise. just on/off cycle a bunch of times and see if that works.


Carl

 

Remove the globe holder in the center console and clean the optical fiber ends. These burn over time and stop the light getting through.

 

Did not have the optical until the later cars...

 

Just a quick update.

Success with the hazards. I cleaned the switch contacts, fitted a new fuse and cleaned all connections. They work. Yay! Score one to me!!

Horn still no go. There's no power at the horns when I push the button. The horns work when power is applied. I pulled the cover off the wheel and the spring and rod are working, cleaned and contacting. Tomorrow I'm under the bonnet to check the fuse and relays.

I started fitting a new stereo and God, spaghetti city. The power wire was almost 3 feet long with 6 different taps, joiners, connections etc on it. I've remove all that crap and I'll hook the new head deck up tomorrow, substantially neater and decide what speakers to use later.

Steering wheel wise, I've decided I'll use a leather motolita, only because my wedding ring tends to destroy wooden wheels.

Mags will stay for now, but I'll put im considering a white or red stripe on the sidewall. I'll eventually buy 18x8 spoke wheels, I think, but I'm still super tempted to run a Superlite wheel. Especially after a customer said it would look awesome, and Bob Jane ran superlites.

Gauges are all working now, but the oil gauge is inaccurate.

Love the progress. Tomorrow I'm doing an oil change, adjusting my carby and rockers, and having a bit of a tidy up.

 

Horn relay is on my passenger front fender in the front (LHD). Major cause of problems... getting one cheap that works is a problem in the
USA but maybe easier for you?

Brass contact on the steering column or the attached ground wire is also a easy to check and major culprit. Horns only work with key ON... unless
changed by a PO.

Re read your original post... S2/SII speedos are different size and look different. You can use the internal pieces to fix yours.. I imagine getting
KPH unit would be easier in the UK or somewhere else in the world. Have a spare one in MPH... got to have spare parts as they are getting harder to
find every day.

Installing a new modern radio demands making sure of the depth. S1 owners use the hose on the bottom rear of the evaporator as a source of additional
air for heating and particularly AC... then we rob the RH return to the rear for the second source to have dual vents that face the front passengers. You cannot see
all the mods I have done to the heating and fresh air ventilation as they look original... all behind the dash and radio plate.. even the heater knob is stock and it
hides the electronic heater servo unit from Vintage Air - an electronic heater valve that works. Fitting bigger speakers in the doors will demand new door panels (best way)
or very careful enlarging of the current holes..

The '72 Jag shown in the signature is still at my house being modified and it has (12) speakers and two amps in the trunk. Tweeters in the front doors and dash pad, door
speakers and two mid and two bass in the rear package tray.. talk about sound! It is well beyond my desire but the new owner likes to listen to Jazz with all the levels.
The speaker box replaces the rear ventilation tray in the trunk and is covered in Jaguar vinyl and is hard to see. I can post photos if interested.

Using this bottom hose method, you must use a radio that is not DEEP... newer units that do not have a CD built in are the newest and best.. use BT streaming of music or a USB drive for your input... or use AUX and a cable to connect a .mp3 device. Mounting a mic for use with BT and cell phone use is easy, I run mine under the dash pad so it barely sticks out at near face level and it is held in place with the fuse door. Mic not installed yet in the photo shown.

Be sure to change all the rotten vacuum lines behind the radio! Be careful taking them off the plastic nipples of the heaters controls - they will break and fixing them is fun as NO NEW PARTS ARE AVAILABLE. You can convert the items to moderns pieces that look stock..

 

Hi Roger, your dash looks amazing, mine is a dogsbody. My wood is ok, but in desperate need of a clean, my glovebox handle is loose and needs to be reattached, I have a non genuine clock, all my gauges and rings are dirty and chipped and pitted, the stereo surround has been painted black and worst of all, none of the connections are connected. There's nothing back there. No pipes or anything.

Long term project will be to retrofit a period 70's style, stand alone air conditioner under the dash, but for now I'm happy to have a fan for some ventilation. I'll also pull out all my gauges, clean and paint them, change globes to LED and re lacquer or re veneer the dash. The car needs to come off the road for that though, and for the next month or so it's my only car.

Stereo wise, I hsve fitted a Kenwood cd unit, it fits in and has room behind it. I would have fitted a mechless unit but I was given the Kenwood, so it fits and does what I need.

Front door trims on my car are crap. The drivers one is destroyed, but I have spares in the boot. I'll make one good set up out of all that I have. Presently, there is a set of house speakers in the rear parcel tray. I'll remove them and recover the back tray, or make a new one from MDF and cover it in black velour. My best mate owns a stereo shop so we will out something together. I have a couple low mount sub/amps left that I didn't use in my Lexus coupe I can fit under the seat. I'm planning on gutting the interior when it's off the road and lining the floor in a body schultz and using dynamatt. Obviously to stop rust, but also to stop some road noise coming in.

I think I'll perservere with the mph speedo, it's original to the car and it looks nice. I have a S2 speedo here I can dismantle for the trip meter and odometer, so, again, when it's laid up I can start doing those little things.

Re the horn relay, I had the same problem with my start circuit, the big Lucas relay on the firewall had failed, so I just rewired it with a Bosch 4 pin relay. Works like a treat. At the end of the day, it's only an electrical circuit. If I can't get it to work, I'll run a new circuit and put a push button switch on the column or something. I hardly use the horn but it's good to have one.

 

Jaguar XJ6 Air Con unit | Engine, Engine Parts & Transmission | Gumtree Australia Queensland - Brisbane Region | 1045022936

It might be worth giving Shaun a call, he dismantled a S1 last year and still has bits floating around. He may have the complete air con set up. He did have a full set of gauges as well.

He is a couple of minutes from me and I have bought parts off him before. I could pick the stuff up and organise delivery to you if you need it. He doesn't do postage as he dabbles in a lot of stuff,not just car parts.
He has an industrial unit with a hoist, a tilt tray,a couple of courier runs and small trucks as well . As well as band practice rooms above he rents out.

He picks up interesting cars and dismantles one at a time on his hoist between real work, you might get lucky with the air con.

 

It is very hard to find AC parts for S1 cars... especially if your car was not fitted with one and you need everything. While you have it all out,
be sure to have your heater matrix/core pressure tested and welded up before covering it with AC parts... big job later on. Check out
the parts that are for sale very close to you... might be able to make them work again.

The amount of space behind the dash is not enough to change out for a modern Ac/heater unit and have it all hidden... some parts will show. I have no idea of the
problems with a RHD car or how it would all fit ... unless they made it for RHD some parts will stick out in the area of the drivers left knee = not good. Might
be best to go for a remote unit in the trunk/boot like they used in the early S1 cars and before that... at least it is designed to work properly with the rear
vents in the parcel tray blowing air forward.

I have seen after market AC units sold "over there" that fit but have not seen or heard of one working... 40+ years later it is getting very hard to find working parts... for
the heater and AC... I have adapted mine as much as possible while keeping the parts inside looking stock... except the dual vents and radio..

The '72 car has had the most changes... both have new dash wood and wooden steering wheels. Still fitting the little finishing things like the piece above the radio
for the Circulation... it is on the way right now. It is going on an extended test drive this coming week while waiting for the needed sun roof parts to arrive to finish
up the known problems.

Using different brand relays is fine, if the circuits are the same and the amp ratings... I have (5) five Bosch relays that run the dual fans and AC on the '72 all mounted on
the fenderwell.

 

Hi XJCHEV
I have 2 x series one speedo's in Km/h they go upto 220 km/h only i am in NZ just north of Wellington i also found in my collection a revcounter where the 6cyl has been changed to 8cyl so may have been recalibrated i do remember about 12 years ago wrecking a series one that had a chev V8 but i purchased it minus the motor so maybe it came from that. I am now retired from the jagspares and repairs i was running but still live on the premises and now my workshop is all mancave.i hope these will help
Cheers Ray

 

Hi Edge, they sound like exactly what I need. I'm in Australia, so postage shouldn't be a massive issue. I'd be interested in both of those.

 

Hi XJCHEV
I will parcel up and get a price for postage on the Tuesday after Easterweekend if you dont mind $20.00 for the pair i can also put a couple of plastic fuel floats in the parcel no cost. you can if you want email me on my private address. Happy Easter
Ceers Ray