Greetings!

I introduced myself in the general new member forum, but figured I should do the same in the model specific forum as well.

I just picked up a 1971 XJ6 that hasn't been on the road in many years. The body seems to be pretty solid with only minor rust issues (some in the rocker panel, some bubbling in the rear wheel well), but is overall straight and doesn't appear to have ever needed repair.

The interior is a different story with the front seats being good for pattern making and that's about it. Most of the rubber seals around the windows are dry and cracked.

Fuel tanks will likely need to be replaced and I'll be spending some time going through the electrical system.

I'll start a proper build thread once I decide a little more firmly on what I plan on creating, but for now I'll be focusing on reviving the vehicle.

Any help on these items would be much appreciated!

Looking for solutions to the interior (reputable suppliers, kits, custom, diy???)
Replacement tanks
Fuel system upgrades

Thanks and I'm looking forward to this journey!

 

for driver-use quality interior kits, (but not necesarily "concours", "museum", or "trailer-queen" quality), check with World Upholstery in California.

Seat Upholstery, Carpet Sets, Converitble Tops, Headliners, Door Panels and Rubber Seals for Jaguar XJ Series Sedans from World Upholstery & Trim

 

Awesome, I'll check them out and see what I am getting myself into. In the meantime, here are a bunch of photos of the vehicle. The fuel tanks are especially tasty.

Last time the vehicle was on the road was 1987...

 

Hi, Weston-

In another thread Millster recommends replacement tanks. You might want to check out this thread.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...es-iii-113289/
(';')

 

It's a lot better than I was expecting from the description in your Intro.

The climate that has killed the front seats, dash roll and parcel shelf has preserved the metal because the vulnerable body parts look sound.

We used to be looking at major repairs to to tops of the front wings above the headlights, rear wheelarches and sills in around three years from new here in the UK with the combined effects of rain and road salt.

Looking forward to following your progress with this project.

Graham

 

Mechanical parts are not usually a problem, but trim parts will be difficult. The dash top is a particular problem as it is plastic foam covered in vinyl leather-look. Fuel tanks are obtainable new, I have now seen several adverts for these in the UK. I think the Series 1 and 2 tanks are the same, but you'd have to do some small mods if using Series 3 tanks.

If you want, you can PM me if you get stuck on anything. I had a Series 3 for 14 years.

 

Ok, here is what I have done/learned as of tonight:

I pulled all the spark plugs after taking a shop vac to each plug area in an attempt to get rid of as much of the crud around the spark plugs as possible. There was still more that fell into the cylinders than I would have liked.

After removing the spark plugs, I examined the plug wires which will definitely need replacement. Most seemed ok, but one was down to bare wires in areas.

I shot some marvel mystery oil in each spark plug hole. From what I can see the tops of the pistons are looking pretty black. While I was at it, I took a peak at the exhaust cam (didn't remove the cover) which was in much better shape than anticipated.

I vacuumed up that lovely yellowish sand looking stuff in the gas tank caps. Took a look inside and was greeted by a healthy amount of rust. Tossed a can of sea foam in each tank.

For the hell of it, I installed a new battery just to see what works and what doesn't. Here are the results:
1. Engine does turn over
2. Map light works
3. Fan works (slow only)
4. Power windows work (pitifully. All windows move slow, passenger rear is now stuck about an inch or so down)
5. No lights, turn signals, etc.

So at this point I figure I need new gas tanks (I'll still wash out the tanks, but am not getting my hopes up). I am also not terribly excited to chase all the electrical work it appears I need to, but oh well.

Any pointers on the electrical?

 

Hi xwestonx,

How about a first name in your signature,I'm sure you will be here very often.
Man, I thought my sereis 1 needed dire attention but I wouldn't bat an eyelid at driving it to Melbourne and back(4000 km round trip).
You certainly have your work cut out, but that's what a resto is . I wanted a daily driver I could touch up between drives.
As far as electrical goes I could scan wiring diagrams for you and email if you like,The ones I have are bigger than the Haines ones, other than that I'm only an auto electrician on my own vehicles as it is a trial and error process for me.

Clarke

 

I just finished up repainting a CA rust free car, all new rubber, new gas tanks
and only the upholstery is left to replace. All is new from the radiator to the rear end....engine and trans upgraded to V8, new dash wood etc with upgraded electronic extras... AC and heat work 110%.

It was in much better shape than your car and it took about a year and lots of $$$ and time (did all but paint myself - took it apart and put it back together after repaint).

It is a HUGE job you are looking at... dash pad can be stripped and recovered by a competent shop. Rubber seals are hard to find and they do not fit
properly on the doors. Trunk seals are easy to find and install as well as the ones on the front and rear windows. The rear door outer window wipes are a
lot of fun - ask me how to do the job when you reach that point. I have photos of that horrible job.

When done they are wonderful cars to drive and receive lots of admiring looks. I do have the original seats the same color as yours, with new front seat diaphragms - front and rear - for sale. The seats have been replaced with S3 Sovereign seats and they will be recovered, as the old leather is falling apart.

Check the heater matrix for leak to the inside of the car when you have the engine running.... another fun job to replace...

 

Wow, that car will keep you busy for a spell. But, each victory will feel really good.
I'd start with spending a lot of time inside with your shop vac just getting the work environment as clean as you can. Followed by a really good exterior wash.
Not only revealing as to what you have but, encouraging as it must look better.
It is just so much better to work with clean stuff.

There is an outfit in Van Nuys, CA that can renew the dash pad to like nu. A bit pricey, though. They did the pad for my son's 64 Chrysler K car. First effort not so good, but they cheerfully redid it and now as good or better than new.

Jag electrics. Clean tighten and lubricate. Start with getting under and finding the braided ground strap on the right side connecting the body to the transmission. If it isn't pristine, get another. Clean the contact points, put on the new one and a tad of grease on the bolts. Up top, follow the black ground from the battery - post to the wing. Same process. I like a tad ordinary Vaseline to protect the battery cables from corrosion. Now, at the rear of the head is a pack of black grounds. Same. Only when all grounds are sound, can any other electric make any sense.

Go to Captainjaguarscathouse, a web site. Down load the S57 copy there.
You will need it for any further electrical experiments.

I've become a "master" of jaguar window and roof switches. When you get there, ask, and I'll provide a guide to fix 'em. Not difficult and quite rewarding.

That 'll get you on the way.

Carl

 

Awesome. Thanks for the responses! I definitely need new windshield and back window rubber, but luckily my door rubber is still soft and looks decent. This will certainly be a project, but I bought the vehicle knowing that it'll be a work in progress for a while. I have modified and built many cars, worked in restoration shops, and appreciate a good challenge, BUT I also recognize this will probably be my biggest challenge yet.

Full disclosure I do intend on modifying the car. I am a hot rodder at heart and well, old habits die hard. I do however want to stay away from putting a Chevy engine swap. Nothing against the guys that have them, but I grew sick of seeing SBCs in everything very early on in my hot rodding career. I left the American muscle car and spent the past 6 years building and modifying air cooled VWs. I may or may not swap the motor on the XJ6, but that is a long ways out, for now getting the car to move under its own power is priority #1.

 

Roger, Congrats! if you have lots of pictures, why not start a new "Before and After" thread with those pics? Thanks!

 

Not a bad idea. I was going to wait until I had a bit more of a direction on the build side, but might as well start the before portion!

 

That would be my priority too.

Too easy to get diverted into bodywork and trim because it's visually a quick reward but it would soak up a lot of cash before you are in a true position to assess where you ultimately want to go with the project.

Following on from your peek down the plug holes, as a serial destroyer of straight six Jaguar XK engines in my younger days, I can vouch that carbon build up on pistons and valves was normal.

Graham

 

Good to know. The tops of the pistons from what I could see looked pretty dirty, but until I've got it up and running, I'm not too concerned. I'll be ordering up some plug wires and everything (I know I was at least getting signal from the distributor). I plan on draining the gas tanks when I get home (they are bone dry, but I did toss some seafoam in there last night).

 

Weston, we stock most and can supply all of the above parts you mention. If you'd like to give me a call or drop me an email with your requirements anytime please do not hesitate and I shall do my best on prices.


We also have a free of charge parts catalogue I can send to you if you would be kind enough to send me your address.


Kind Regards


William@SngBarratt.Com