I tried asking this question on some older posts but no response so i am hoping the experience of the group can help. The 1971 XJ6 i bought this spring was stripped of paint, rust repaired, and repainted with Imron. Overall it is not bad but there is some small bubbling and the fingernail thickness chips! I plan on taking the glass out along with the interior etc. and repainting. I dread the thought of taking the Imron back to bare metal. Does anyone have any experience painting over Imron with a two stage finish? A few photos that came with the car along with a few now attached.







Always appreciated!

 

Well, this assumes we all know what IMRON is !
I quick internet search found this, (there are other articles)
https://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2637
It looks like it is a coach-type paint used to paint trucks and coaches. Downside of these paints is that it is very difficult, even impossible to polish smooth, but that doesn't matter with the vehicles that get painted with this stuff. My experience is that normally when trying to paint over these with cellulose paint, wrinkling will occur. However cellulose is no longer used, but even so, the wrinkling was from the solvents, so it's always best to test a small inconspicuous area first. With clear-over-base paint, the colour coat is water-based.
Its really a matter of trying things out, I reckon and also try to find a paint shop that can give advice.

 

Thank you, This was my initial thought, that I would take one of the fuel tank skirts and give it a try. I will keep you posted!

 

All paints are only as good as what is beneath them. If the Imron is stable, sand it back as far as you can then do your sport and chip repairs. Most modern paints are very flexible and will work over a variety of surfaces such has metal and flexible urethane bumpers so going over imron should be ok too.

 

IMRON is a very durable paint, but is susceptible to chipping because it dries to a very hard finish. Stone chips happen very easily.
I have painted over IMRON in the past.
Prep the car as is. (Wear proper gear)
Do all of your spot repairs.
Sand the IMRON paint smooth. (Not very easy to do)
Seal the IMRON paint using an EPOXY Primer/ Sealer.
Prep EPOXY primer/sealer.
Apply Base Coat.
Apply Clear Coat

 

Way back when, we knew that painting Laquer over acrylic AKa cellulose and enamel would not work. The solvent in lacquer/cellulose cuts enamlor acrylic.

Before the strong sealers, it meant bare metal or use enamel/acrylic...

Aye, the base is great,if in good condition. going to barte metal needed only in extreme cases.

From a non expert...

 

Sanchez, This is what I was hoping to do. Imron was the rage for a while around here. My arms are already tired but I am up for it. Thank you for the advice.

 

JagCad, I will run with that theory, and an experiment will tell. I will document the results! Thank you as well

 

Imron is a tough old paint. Are you sure you can't polish it?

 

It certainly is tough! There are chips and some rust that needs to be addressed so i am faced with a repaint. Not the end of the world!