Problem I encounter that confused me.
#1
Problem I encounter that confused me.
First night I got my S1 it broke down. Starter apparently failed. I could start it by putting a screwdriver across terminals, so I did that for a while until I decided it wasn't too dignified and set about fixing it.
First, I installed a second hand starter I was given with the car but it was very slow, so I set about rebuilding the one that was in it (hi torque ASM unit) as I had another one I was going to use in my 351C that wouldn't fit. I swapped the nosecone over and fitted that one. Click. Click. I knew this was a good starter so I was annoyed.
Did the usual tests, like cycle shifter, try it in all shift positions, etc. no go.
Replaced the Lucas box on the firewall with a new relay. No change. Clicks.
Get my multimeter out, throw a new battery in and do some checks. + on the relay is good, no voltage drop. Earth from shifter is good. Power from key is good, no voltage drop after 30 sec. Power out is working, too. So the car should start.
Anyway, I disconnet the wire from the harness that goes to the starter and run a test lead and it starts first go.
Reconnect harness to solenoid and it clicks again.
Further investigation reveals the wire runs from the right, across to below the battery, and back out to the right. The clicking is coming from under the battery somewhere.
I have since removed this wire and just run a short lead from the relay to the solenoid, but I am baffled as to why the wire runs across there and under the battery. My only explanation is that the Jag may have had a starter with a remote solenoid and the wiring had been running to that, and out, and it had failed. If that's not the answer, I'm stumped.
First, I installed a second hand starter I was given with the car but it was very slow, so I set about rebuilding the one that was in it (hi torque ASM unit) as I had another one I was going to use in my 351C that wouldn't fit. I swapped the nosecone over and fitted that one. Click. Click. I knew this was a good starter so I was annoyed.
Did the usual tests, like cycle shifter, try it in all shift positions, etc. no go.
Replaced the Lucas box on the firewall with a new relay. No change. Clicks.
Get my multimeter out, throw a new battery in and do some checks. + on the relay is good, no voltage drop. Earth from shifter is good. Power from key is good, no voltage drop after 30 sec. Power out is working, too. So the car should start.
Anyway, I disconnet the wire from the harness that goes to the starter and run a test lead and it starts first go.
Reconnect harness to solenoid and it clicks again.
Further investigation reveals the wire runs from the right, across to below the battery, and back out to the right. The clicking is coming from under the battery somewhere.
I have since removed this wire and just run a short lead from the relay to the solenoid, but I am baffled as to why the wire runs across there and under the battery. My only explanation is that the Jag may have had a starter with a remote solenoid and the wiring had been running to that, and out, and it had failed. If that's not the answer, I'm stumped.
#2
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
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Yeah, It can be confusing. The original Jaguar set up on my car, an S3, may or may not be similar to what was in your car.
WY (white/yellow) wire from key to starter relay. Originaly a device with a metallic cap.
Then, WR (white/red) from that post to the small post on the starter solenoid.
That is the wire you replaced. it works. Can't beat that!!
I just rebuilt that circuit n my car. Works OK. I used a generic 40 amp realy in lieu of the oft troublesome Lucas can.
The ground leg of the relay is black. It goes to the neutral start switch. some way in the console. A story in itself.
Enjoy.
Carl
WY (white/yellow) wire from key to starter relay. Originaly a device with a metallic cap.
Then, WR (white/red) from that post to the small post on the starter solenoid.
That is the wire you replaced. it works. Can't beat that!!
I just rebuilt that circuit n my car. Works OK. I used a generic 40 amp realy in lieu of the oft troublesome Lucas can.
The ground leg of the relay is black. It goes to the neutral start switch. some way in the console. A story in itself.
Enjoy.
Carl
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