Question for the v8 conversions
 

I have a salsbury diff (luckily with the locker) what flange do i get/tell the driveshaft shop i need? whats everyones experience with getting driveshafts? Im going to rome in 3 days so id like to get my order in tomorrow or the next day if possible

Also for those with carbs, what intake/carb/aircleaner set up are you running?

Cannot help with the driveshaft, but the flange on the trans end depends on your transmission choice? The rear of the driveshaft has the Jaguar round flange that bolts directly to the rear end. You have not had fun until you change out the rear end on a Jag IRS!

When I had a carb, I used a highly modified Q Jet carb...to get the best economy - have plenty of HP and torque. Had to use a drop bottom air cleaner to get the needed clearance under the hood... with a X top on top the K&N air cleaner that cleared the underside of the hood by about 1/2-3/4 inch for air flow.

All this old carb stuff is going to be for sale soon...I kept the intake manifold, Performer, for use with the TBI now on the car. It now has a cold air intake system that really helps lower the temperature of the air coming into the engine.

The flange for the diff simply comes off at the the ujoint. Then have a new and correct lenght drive shaft made and attach the flange from the old drive shaft at the u-joint. If you want to keep your 2 piece shaft then simply have the front half of the shaft made to the correct length for your setup. Same idea here...the shaft 1/2 or flange separates at the u joint.

As for the air cleaner, the 82-86 Z28 Camaro sits low and is a dual snorkel design.

sorry i guess i should have clarified better, i have the turbo 400 yoke that im going to use, what i need is a part number or link to the flange adapter off of the Salisbury flange. Im having a custom 1 piece shaft made because i seem to have lost my original 2 piece somewhere during the restoration (probably got sent to scrap by mistake)

so heres a small visual breakdown

{trans yoke} {u joint} {driveshaft} {u joint} {flange adapter} {flange on diff}

what im after is the flange adapter

I have a quadrajet carb that i had rebuilt when i bought the car.

Air cleaner came with the car and it is a Holley, it is uglier than sin however.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...a222b145e3.jpg

A quick google search says it is a - Holley 64280: Twin Sidedraft Air Cleaner Dimensions 7.8" D X 18.3" W X 3" T | JEGS

Here is the parts book showing the S1 driveshaft and the rear flange part number... you sure do not want another two piece shaft.. they are stupid.

Take this print out to any good driveshaft shop and they will know what to use... if not, look for another shop.

Why are they stupid? Jag used them, Mercedes,BMW uses them, the Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo used a two piece, even some high powered Toyota Supra's use a two piece drive shaft. The current 650HP ZL1 Camaro uses a 2 piece driveshaft.

For high powered applications some believe they are safer and in more pedestrian vehicles they are certainly smoother.

As for the Jags...Keep in mind that the input flange of the differential is offset and not centered so it's impossible to get a straight shot from the back of the transmission to the diff relative to the center line of the vehicle.

It's really a matter of personal preference. For me I can tell when a vehicle has a 1 piece shaft as I'm extremely sensitive to NVH. In every car I've owned with a 1 piece shaft I can feel a rumble at high speeds.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/attach...1&d=1321818786

My opinion of Shaftmasters 2 piece shaft

Yeah, differing ways to look at things. But, stupid, I think not. Each seems to work just fine.


1. Way back when, a business colleague had an early Ford Bronco. It developed a drive line issue. It, for some reason or another, possibly it's short wheel base sported a two piece shaft with a constant velocity U joint midship. Dealer wanted big $'s to fix.


I counseled a 4x4 shop. They built a two Ujoint shaft fro scratch for far less. It performed just fine for my friend. He liked my IHC Scout II better than his Ford.


My lumped 83 has a one piece line and seems fine to me. Ron probably has far better ears than mine.


Carl

"Stupid" is a little strong.. not needed at all to have two U-joints and a one piece is simpler.
Get a quality shaft with proper balancing done... I have no noticeable vibrations.

Have had four Lumped Jags and all have/had one piece driveshafts with no vibrations... guess you
just need quality rear trans mounts and a good driveshaft shop?

ok so i took measurements of the flange took it to the drive shop and the very first one he guessed would work, worked. so measured the center to center and its 4 ft going to send the order in tomorrow for the shafts

I can vouch for the pedestrian vehicles comment. I had a BMW E30 with a two piece shaft. Although you are well aware when it goes pear shaped, when working as designed it does contribute a lot to a more quality smooth car feel in what should logically be just another buzz box.

I have an XJ6 with T700 gearbox, and one piece shaft. I tried 3 shafts, but never got rid of the vibration. Some folks say the angle off the trans must be same as the angle entering the diff. Jag made several different trunnion brackets that bolt to the diff, and each have slightly different angles, for this reason.
ps SUNCHIP, I'm in St Catharines, and have several parts cars.

Rob

I spent a bit of time around London, Brantford & Welland last year visiting friends & family. Nice place, although I wouldn't like to be there in the winter.

1. The Holley air cleaner might not be all that bad in a better environment! Avast with the multi colored spaghetti. And off with that odd box with the chalk marks. Apologies, I know that you are working on it... I just could not resist !


2. Drive shaft "science" exists. Somewhat simpler in IRS cars, like Jaguar as the differential is almost in a fixed position. Unlike other cars where it goes up ands down uniformly and to some extent nose down at times.


In a perfect world the out on the transmission and the input on the differential would be on the same planes. But, some deviation can be dealt with by the universal joints.
Best is that the planes might be different, but parallel.


Balance of the shaft is of utmost import. Far more than mere luck in making a custom shaft.


And, I'm a bit fuzzy here, but the front ujoint and the rear joint need to be oriented.


Carl '

i am in search of another hood, one that isnt in the greatest shape as i would be slicing it down the two parallel hood lines and adding about 4 inches to the farthest rear part and filling in the rest, creating a cowl hood of sorts

I sorted all the wiring a few months back, was just the only picture I had on my computer with me at the time :P

The odd box with the chalk mark is a charcoal canister for the fuel tanks. Do others series 2 cars not have this? Maybe it was done during my poor v8 conversion.

I have a hood with that modification done already. It was for a race car.

Rob 905-937-0264

could you post some pictures of it? and how much would you want for it?

What you're asking about the rear driveshaft "adapter", I think I get it now. You lost your original shaft so you have no rear d'shaft flange. Just get one from any xj6 driveshaft, and iirc they're on front and back and are the same. The new ujoint will connect it to the new driveshaft, then it bolts to the rear diff as designed.
I think I just repeated what ICS said. :icon_doh:

Mad:


An odd location, but my experience is with my SIII car. It's canister is just behind the outboard lamp on the right side. Shared with GM cars. I have a "spare" in my bits "totes" that came with my "conversion" package.


You might want to ditch yours and tuck it away out of sight for a cleaner engine bay.


Kudos, you are "getting after it" in fine fashion.


Carl