Finally have all off the car that is coming off for painting. Interior is stripped and only the drivers seat is in place along with some carpet.

They have to weld up the old side mirror holes and then fill the holes in the trunk lid from the "6" in the XJ6 logo... it was removed for the V8 symbol.

Side lights front and rear and all the other logo stuff has already been removed and filled by the PO.

Plastic is covering the dash area as the front window will be replaced (new) and the rear one R&R... the new window seals are on the rear floor.

Rear bumper and a few other odd parts are in the truck to go to the chrome shop today.

Hopefully it will get all sanded down to bare metal and repainted in the next coming weeks... then the big chore of putting it all back on the car with new
gaskets and seals and the rest of the LED lights not already installed.

Will post the photos of the stripped car when I pull it out for the one mile drive to the body shop..

 

FWIW
When I did the bare metal respray on my VDP I used paint stripper from Home Depot, and a bunch of safety razor blades- a panel at a time. Then sanded off the remaining small bits and pieces that were still hanging on in spots.

Then the body work , only regret was that I did not fill in the side marker lamp holes in the body, or at least try for European style side markers. Oh well. Also while I had the chance I painted the door handle inserts the same color as the car - they were black

 

After looking at the car of Alyn's, I made sure the shop would remove the door handles and trunk lock before painting.. there are new door handle gaskets waiting for the re-install.

Since S1 rubber door seals are not made to the correct specs (do not fit) and are VERY difficult to install, I left on all but the LR door... it was badly deformed on the upper RH section.

The door seals on the car have been replaced already and are in GREAT shape and they will be masked for the painting. Since this is being repainted the same BRG color, it is a easy masking job.

This car was painted with Imron paint and it is as thick as a fingernail... very shiny when new but it "chips" with road rocks and has to be totally removed.

 

a few pics.....

 

Body work and sanding is done... they will move the car 50 feet to the glass shop on Monday and remove both windshields.

Front one will be replaced with new after the painting is done. The now missing trim pieces are ready and recently re-chromed so it will eventually be complete again. PO had removed them at some time in the past?

They new two stage BRG paint will be applied. New door handle gaskets, window rubber seals and the new front glass will be installed post painting. The new LR door seal just arrived so now all the rubber pieces will be new.

SOON, I will be driving the car again as my daily driver!

 

And hiding out in the farthest reaches of every parking lot?

 

The right hand side of the Jag was "gifted" one Xmas Eve at Wal Mart. I rushed over to get some wrapping stuff and the person next to me could not park properly.

Of course, no nice note or anything... I drive a Ram 1500 truck and get my exercise now... will continue that far away parking.

When all done I will get the car appraised as my insurance company will only cover it for $9800.00 without an appraisal... I can image some idiot
running into it hard --- car totaled and get very little of my money back!

 

Yesterday they finished the fine sanding and made sure all the holes were blown clean.

The front and rear windows were removed.. no rust or other damages found in those areas. It is a CA car from the beginning of its life and rust only happened in the RF fender rear area where dirt and crud was trapped. That very small
section was cut out and replaced.

The paint code was found and the paint is being made up at this time... BRG
from the 1971 era.

Painting and buffing should be completed before Labor Day!

 

Sounds great so far.
I wish I could say the same about mine re the rust, but it would be more accurate to say the reverse i.e. every bit that could rust out, has and most have been bodged and butchered by successive POs.
It will take a great amount of grinding, cutting, plasma, metal working and welding before it gets anywhere near your stage.

 

Will go by the shop today and examine the car... if really ready will pick it up and start the re-install process of all the parts off the car.

Will post painted car pictures!

 

Roger:


Sounds great.


Don't get too anxious. I suspect that fresh paint needs some more cure time before trying to install the "stuff'.


Pictures as you go. So we can enjoy as well.


Carl

 

Car is at home now... body shop says paint is dry... OK to put stuff back on. I will start with the interior and that will take several days...

Car is painted with 1971 BRG (British Racing Green) and it is two stage (base and clear coat).

To be able to properly paint the side rear valances and under the rear valance, they jacked the car up onto four jack stands...they learned a lot after painting the '72 XJ last year and that was a color change from Brown to Regency Red.

 

Very nice, Roger!! Very much looking forward to oodles of documentation photos, especially covering the drivetrain. Thanks!!

 

Boy Howdy, Roger, that looks Great!
Do you know the brand/composition of the paint?
(';')

 

Will get the paint can soon and let you know the brand... I know the paint code is all = found this buried in the Archives.

Jaguar Paint Code – 1968-1973

British Racing Green – paint code 254
PPG paint code: 44524

It is two stage, base and then a clear coat.

 

My car has always been missing the front window trim... but it needs the wider trim from a SII or very late S1.

The front windows is now new and the rubber and all is fine except for the missing trim pieces.

I would like to find some trim that DOES NOT use the two connectors that have nuts holding the connectors through the glass.

Does anyone have a SII with trim about 3/4 inch wide without those "funny" connectors... or have part numbers/pictures of that wider trim?

 

Bill

I am sorry I overlooked your reply:

The engine was a brand new ZZ4 383 short block with Edelbrock heads. I just converted it to EZ-EFI 2.0 TBI with the custom cold air intake... it is a combination of the filter/box from Bob Loftus and my adaptation of a Spectra plenum and a LT1 seal and a piece of tubing. Looks and works great! Car starts with the turn of a key and shuts off cleanly each time. Have less than 150 miles on it so I do not know about any mileage changes yet.

Transmission is a Bow Tie Overdrives Stage 3 200R with their 2000 RPM converter... it has a B&M trans cooler in front of the radiator. Had the engine and trans installed since 1997 but it only has about 10K miles due the many cars I used to have. I changed the rear end to 2:88 LSD from the stock 3:31 gears as the engine has 410 HP and 470# torque so it pulls VERY well. I am not looking for a performance car at my advanced age.

Any other questions, just ask.

 

Guess the glass shop found fitting the trim for the first time in this car was too hard?

David Boger had me measure my current trim that I had rechromed... it fits the rubber seal grooves properly! I am trying to install it myself and it is very hard without someone holding the other end in place.. getting it into the grooves al laround the top and bottom- might need some gentle re bending to fit properly after shipping, re chroming etc.

It is the correct seal and trim!

 

Roger,
I would have thought trim refit was part of the job! Must not have been specifically mentioned on the work order?

I had to rebend a portion of my chrome strip which wasn't secured; the vertical part on the driver (left) side came up whenever I met a truck.

I learned the hard way that great caution is needed because it resists and resists and resists -- and BAM!! It gave way and went too far.

At that point I had to glue it into the channel with Black Death (3M weatherstrip adhesive), tie it down with ratchet straps through the open doors and leave it for a week to cure.

It's all secure now, even in a 40mph head wind doing 70mph and meeting a big rig doesn't dislodge that piece.
(';')

 

I have to go back to the glass shop and "talk".. he has done this job two other times on the '72 XJ that was repainted as well.

He held it up to the new glass to show me it did "not fit"... I thought he said it was the wrong size... I think he meant it was not fitting properly.

To bend it properly you have to start putting pressure behind the spot that needs to bend and use "gentle" hard pressure... I have one side almost ready to install.
I will get that side in a do a revisit of the shop...

I am not sure when the two connectors need to be installed?