According to the Haynes workshop manual the fuel gauge can be removed by first removing the speedometer, and then through the hole left by the speedo you are supposedly able to release the retention clamp which all of the smaller gauges have holding them in.

Problem with this is, I just don't see how.. I can barely get my hand in there let alone a pair of pliers, and the knurled nut which needs to be unscrewed is tight as all hell.

Any ideas?

 

It might be possible to get a set of long-handled pliers down from the top after removing the dash top. Once you've got the little knurled nut undone a bit, you'll have to go in via the speedo hole, of course.

 

If you really can' get in there, you may need some special pliers, like a set of 90-degree, long reach needle-nose pliers. WD40 and a straw never hurt anybody either.

 

no metal tools in there! spray WD40 ON THE KNURLED nuts using the thin red tube that comes with the can. You can wrap a bit of duct tape over the nut if too tight to give you torque.

the hole is big enough for a gorilla-sized hand like mine, so unless you are Godzilla, it should fit.

AND disconnect the battery FIRST unless you like the smell of fried wires.

 

Cheers for the ideas guys. Will see how it goes.

 

I can't help it. I'm a curious guy. I gotta ask? Why do you want to remove it?

Carl

 

I forgot: there is a lock washer under the knurled nut

 

Ever since I have owned this car (which is only since October last year) the fuel gauge has not worked - it shows empty all the time and barely twitches when you turn on the ignition.
Since it does this reglarless of whether the right or left hand tank is selected, I figured it is more likely the gauge that is bad and not the 2 seperate sensors in the tanks. I could be completely wrong.

 

Easy-ish test:

Remove one of the rear tail light assemblies (either side) (10 minutes max) to reveal the wiring to the fuel tank sender wiring. Disconnect the light green wire and, with the key "on", touch the light green wire to ground. If the gauges moves to "Full", then the gauge is OK. If not, the gauge is faulty or you have a wiring/connection problem from the sending unit to the gauge

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks Doug that makes a lot of sense, I will try it.