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Replacing water pump...couple questions

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Old 12-17-2010, 01:55 PM
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Default Replacing water pump...couple questions

Project # 2,189 on the Jag--- noticed that the pump was leaking so upon further observation it appears to be a bad gasket. Along with that, I can see a hint of green right where the pulley attaches to the nose of the wp. Looks like it has rusted through via a tiny hole. Either way...the pump is coming off and a new one is going on.

Q1-- New or rebuilt? Motorcarsltd has a rebuilt for $89 ($50 core) or new for $115. I was leading toward rebuilt.

Q2-- Use gasket that comes with it or permatex instant gasket?

Q3-- Looks pretty easy--pop off fan--unbolt--replace (after draining radiator of course). Is that all there is to it?

Car has not been running hot nor has it lost much coolant. Just a known defective part that needs to be replaced.

Will post more details of the project after I do it...but some pre-game info would be helpful.
 
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:49 PM
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That's a common failure with these water pumps, I removed the fan shroud, pulled the fan and it was easy to get to. I would go with a new one unless money is really an issue...I also replaced the thermostat during this process too.
 
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Old 12-23-2010, 08:11 PM
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I haven't done it on the Jag, but it looks pretty straightforward. The silicone gasket maker can be used to help get a leak proof seal. They make a special gray colored version for water pumps and thermostats; supposedly it is more resistant to coolant. Just clean the gasket surfaces well and use some solvent or brake clean to get any slippery residue off before putting the new part on.

Maybe replace the belt while you are at it?

Rebuilt or new, probably either will work just fine. You may get a better warranty with new, if it is worth it to you (maybe you plan to keep the car for a long time).
 
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Old 12-25-2010, 09:25 PM
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Ok an update to this project. The pump is off and I have cleaned the face of the block of all gasket material. Now two questions arise. There is an opening in the block above the pump. The paper gasket does not have a hole there. If I use permatex, that hole will not be covered up. Is this a problem? What is that hole for?

Also, there is a long hose that feeds from a nipple on the passenger side of the pump to the throttle body. The only way to remove the hose clamp is from under the car which I don't want to do. What does the long thin hose do?

Thinking of replacing the fan/clutch too for PM reasons. Fan belt was just replaced so I'm reusing it.
 
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Old 12-25-2010, 10:18 PM
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Not sure about the hole.

The small hose provides a bit of heat to the throttle body to prevent freezing, during winter time. Most all cars have a heater hose like that to the throttle. If it is hard to remove the pump clamp, try disconnecting the other end of the hose, and leave it attached at the water pump. Or cut the hose, remove the water pump, and just replace the hose. Install the hose and hose clamp at the pump before you put the water pump in.
 
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Old 12-27-2010, 06:36 AM
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The pump is back on and everything seems to be working properly...no leaks.

Some observations:

1. In addition to the large hose coming from the radiator there are three additional hoses on the pump (which I never knew). The one that is hardest to change is the long thin one that goes to the throttle body. It is impossible to remove from the throttle body without getting under the car or having a lift. I left mine as is for now. Bought a new one and will replace it if necessary.

2. When re-installing the new pump I put anti-seize on all the hose nipples and inside the hoses so they would slide on easier. There are two of them you have to put on as you slide the pump back onto the studs coming out of the block.

3. The threads on the new pump that hold the fan on the nose are a different count than the original. Make sure you check that before installing. I will be buying four new nuts to secure the fan instead of taking the studs off the old pump and putting them on the new one. Its easier.

4. This process took me about 4-5 hours. A bunch of time is spent getting access to hose clamps and accessing some of the bolts. Not a hard job but time consuming.
 
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:38 AM
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Good job! I think someone replaced the pump on mine not too long ago, hopefully I won't have to mess with it.
 
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Old 12-30-2010, 12:14 PM
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I am pretty sure mine was original. It was pumping fine but leaking and I found the gasket to be toast when I took it off. It was in similar condition as the valve cover gaskets. Hard, brittle and frozen to the block like it was held on with epoxy. After scraping it off as best I could, I put a small wire disk on my drill and cleaned up the rest of it that way. Needed to some extensions to get certain spots but it worked fine.

Overall, I would say it is a moderately difficult job that should be done in two periods. Take off and clean mating surfaces on day one and reinstall on day two. Otherwise the frustration factor and fatigue can cause mistakes.
 
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Old 01-01-2011, 02:43 PM
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Good advice on spacing out the removal and replacement stages. Definitely wise to avoid frustration and approach stage 2 with a fresh mindset.

Did you replace the fan? I looked at mine closely and it has a lot cracks spider-webbed all over it, with a few starting to open up. I need to replace it before it comes apart I think. Guess that will be my next area of repair, since I need to also fix up the radiator--noticed the fins were very crumbly and will flake away at the touch of a finger!

I found the aftermarket white plastic fan blade for as low as $83.25 at SNG Barratt and $99 at Welsh.
 
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:17 AM
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I cleaned up my fan and clutch while it was out of the car and did not find any cracks. So I did not replace it. I also have a spare that came out of a parts car and it is in good shape as well so I had a back up if my original was found to be unusable.

So far, the pump is working well with no leaks so I am happy with the results. I wonder how much the Jag dealer would have charged for that repair!
 
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