Thank you, Graham,
Yes, some Serious work! As I understand the process the engine has to be held with a sky hook to replace some of the suspension parts. I'm wondering if there will be enough Winter here to get all that done, besides caring for all my other responsibilities.

I NEED to have it back on the road my April 1 as the emissions test is due by April 15. So, like everything else regarding this car, I have a deadline but this one is more serious. If I can't get it successfully through emissions I have to put it on Non-Op for the duration.

I certainly hope the improvement in ride quality is worth all this effort. The 10 year-old Michelins handled a LOT better than these new General Altimas. Until I put these on I had deluded myself into thinking I could get away with no serious front end work for a couple years!

On the other hand, it should be good for another 38 years?
(';')

 

7 days....................still waiting, I did know he was going to fit it between real paying customers though. And he knows I have 2 other cars and a bike no one else uses.
Just lucky we added two more cars we didn't want to the fleet this week.

UPDATE: did a drive by today on the way to the pub, finally an the hoist. should have it back on the road in a couple of days.

 

Well, I finally got my car back today. It drives like a completely different car,steering is so precise now. A lot less like driving a boat.
All the knocks,rattles,creaks and groans have gone.

The job ended up taking longer than expected,but still was not too expensive. The lower fulcrum shafts(wishbone pivot shaft) were rusted into the cross member. He also made up a spring compressor very similar to the one "Don B" made. I don't have to finish making mine now as I know where I can get one.

My mechanic was fairly certain most of these parts had not been removed before.

Graham(GGG) ,the V mounts were almost almost non existent . The big creak going over speed humps and driveways has gone.

 

So you were driving around on 43 year old suspension components. Wow, Clarke! No wonder you had creaking and groaning.

I wish I could take my car somewhere and bring it back with new suspension in exchange for quantities of beer. I'd even fork over considerable cash for the confidence the job was done right.

My suspension project is dead in the water at the moment as I'm obsessed with the floor pans and specifically getting the carpets out of flames' way.

And my work is cutting into my car time. Bummer.
(';')

 

I had to part with a considerable amount of cash(more than I was expecting) but the job was done right.

Only problem I have now is my pipes are scraping coming into the garage again, back to the start. I went and asked, he had to drop the pipes off to get the rusted pivot shafts out.

 

Good one Clarke.

Check for the fibre spacer discs on the engine mounts, he may have forgot them, and that will lower the engine and also those pipes.

Those pivot pins are a MONGREL on any day.

One of my S2's needed a replacement cradle, as no amount of anything would get them out.

 

Got back under it this afternoon, he had undone my exhaust mods.(being a mechanical & exhaust shop he put it back where it should be).
Muffler Pro

I had made notes of my alterations with measurements so re-did them and easy garage entry is back.

 

Hey Lnr, thanks for posting that pic. . Since you are Stateside, would you mind posting the parts list and source?

I need to put this on my list
thanks

 

Warlock,
Below is a list of parts as requested. When a box arrives I try to file the order form immediately but I'm not always successful. These are certainly the vast majority of sources for the parts in the picture.

We have discovered that parts are where you find them and prices vary wildly. Husband does most of the procurement as he's Very good at it and spending the least money for the best quality.

Shock bushings
wheel bearings, inner, outer -- O'Reilly

Sway bar link
centered washers -- JEGS

Upr cntr arm bush
front stub axle
spring-over shocks
front hub seal
wheel studs
jack point stud -- Welsh

Lower ctrl arm bush -- Rock Auto

Lower ball joint -- Parts Geek

upper ball joint (BeckArnley) -- eBay [madcheetah]

Lug Nugs
catalytic converter
heat shield tubing
billet wheel spacers -- Summit Racing
(';')

 

To start with, I'll address the question of "mileage vs. age" regarding bushing replacement. Neither is a sure thing. Mileage on my Jag is under 34k. After replacement, I found all of the old bushings to be satisfactory, with the exception of the front engine cradle (the ones with all the holes in them). I was not able to get the upper drivers side out, and after careful inspection of the other bushings did not feel it was necessary anyway. Already covered by Doug, but I'm just confirming his analysis. I didn't mess with the ball joints, or tie rod ends.

A few thoughts from the other side...the right tools makes this (and any) job much simpler. I used a single Ø5/8"-11UNC threaded rod with an over-sized nut that had threads all the way through an integral washer (the picture below shows the threaded rod with extra "arms" on them-those work for my typical GM springs, NOT Jaguar!). I double nutted the top to ensure it would not work it's way off. I only have one empty head to lose, after all! Using 4 fully threaded rods will work just as well-it's up to you.

For reinstalling, I cut four pieces of Ø3/8" round stock and ran them through a fine threaded die to guide the spring perch back into position (I found I really only needed two). Also, I happened to have a small piece of 3/4" flat bar with a large enough hole in the center to fit the threaded rod through. This worked perfectly to hold the perch closer to parallel with the lower wishbones. Keep the threaded rod(s) well lubricated! Elinor-in your case, check if there are washers/spacers between the perch & the Lower A-Frame. I installed 3 Grade 8 washers between mine to lower the front for the lighter Chevy V8.

See pics:

 

Nice work.
I'm wondering about the threaded rod from a scissor jack or side jack usually available for less than the cost of suitable threaded bar.

 

Not sure of the mileage, The car had less than 500 miles on the clock when I got it. But not sure haw many times it has been around.
All bushes and mounts were perished or broken, ball joints and tie rod ends were very sloppy. The only pieces that looked like they had been replaced were the steering rack bushes. Everything was rusted in place.

The rod with plate looks simple and effective.

 

Ordered front shocks and upper and lower bushes tonight.
Left front has got stuck, no give at all when pushing down on front of car,Right rebound has gone.

 

Front left is chirping a bit in car parks and tight turns, and can feel a lot of vibe through the steering wheel on bumps on the road(60kph ) feels like the left front to me from the the way the car behaves.
I hope new front shocks will fix it(with new bushes that arrived)

My mechanic is going to check it on Monday, he thinks maybe lower wishbone
bolt (C30722) which he had to heat and drift out damaging the threads on it may be the problem.

Considering it had been there 40 years , I suppose he could be right.

 

The left front shock was bent and no matter how much force I put on it would not move.
Once removed the problem was obvious. When my guy replaced the spring, his first tool he made let go and the spring went flying. Second tool worked a treat.
Obviously the shock took an impact from the spring and was damaged.

All good now, the front is sitting a tad higher now and feels so sweet cornering too.

 

Drove around 380km(256 miles on my speedo) round trip today to have a cold beer and steak sandwich with a mate during his lunch break in Kyogle.
Took the freeway there and the back roads home, handled great on the back roads between 40 and 80mph.

 

That's great, Clarke!
At first I was a bit astounded the distance you Ozzies are willing to travel for a cold beer, and then I remembered the Enormous distances to get anywhere in Montana where I grew up. The only real difference is, we were going that far for parts for one of the machines. Farmers don't have time to drink very much beer.
(';')

 

Really!, I would drive to South Australia if Grant Francis was paying for the beer.
Look at the Ballina meet we had, Paul(hazjag) drove 1200+ km each way to park his Jag with others by a river while we had a few beers and lunch.

That's how we roll. My mate rang me last night and said if you have a day off coming up drop in for lunch at the local.....my answer was I'll see you at the bar at 12 tomorrow.

 

Where did you source the parts from?

 

Hi Nick, sorry to hear you were tied up with work the Ballina weekend.

Parts were sourced from Jagdaim in Melbourne. They are very helpful,just about always the part you want on the shelf and dispatched the same day.

Speak to Doug Findlay, he seems to know the part numbers off the top of his head. Very knowledgeable and willing to give plenty of advice to go with the parts.

Jaguar Spare Parts Supplier - Jagdaim - Australia's Largest Independant

I have also found Gary Ayre, (Jag1). good to deal with and 2 day delivery to Qld(from Melbourne)

http://jag1.com.au/index.php#top