Shocking experience
#1
Shocking experience
I recently did a GM conversion on a 1984 XJ6. Everything is going fine so far, but I am experiencing a very shocking issue. I only noticed this yesterday, so I don't know the cause.
No alarm system on car.
With the engine running I can work on any issue outside of the car, but if I go inside and touch any metal parts, I get shocked. The shock is continuous so it is not static electricity. It feels as strong as AC voltage.
Right now I have the center console removed and the gear shifter without the handle. If I grab the handle and touch any metal part I get a constant electrical shock. If I grab the key and touch the metal on the door I get zapped.
It does feel like AC current.
I have the system properly grounded and the only thing that produces AC current is my Alternator, which I presume I wired correctly.
Terminal I - Trigger with key 'on'
Terminal 2- sense wire looped back to battery wire on alternator
Battery Terminal - back to positive junction on driver (left) side of the car.
I am also using this junction terminal for a constant voltage feed for the relay for my fog lamps, and they work fine.
ALL electrical components function as the should. E- fans constant voltage to relays from the junction terminal behind the battery, they work fine.
All spark plug wires insulated from engine block.
HEI Distributor is new with transparent cap.
Any idea what is causing this?
Prior to putting this engine in I did not have this problem.
I have to solve this before I convert this engine to TBI.
No alarm system on car.
With the engine running I can work on any issue outside of the car, but if I go inside and touch any metal parts, I get shocked. The shock is continuous so it is not static electricity. It feels as strong as AC voltage.
Right now I have the center console removed and the gear shifter without the handle. If I grab the handle and touch any metal part I get a constant electrical shock. If I grab the key and touch the metal on the door I get zapped.
It does feel like AC current.
I have the system properly grounded and the only thing that produces AC current is my Alternator, which I presume I wired correctly.
Terminal I - Trigger with key 'on'
Terminal 2- sense wire looped back to battery wire on alternator
Battery Terminal - back to positive junction on driver (left) side of the car.
I am also using this junction terminal for a constant voltage feed for the relay for my fog lamps, and they work fine.
ALL electrical components function as the should. E- fans constant voltage to relays from the junction terminal behind the battery, they work fine.
All spark plug wires insulated from engine block.
HEI Distributor is new with transparent cap.
Any idea what is causing this?
Prior to putting this engine in I did not have this problem.
I have to solve this before I convert this engine to TBI.
#2
The AC from the alternator I doubt would do that.
I reckon you got HEI Hi-Voltage feed back.
Check the engine EARTH strap, put another decent sized strap on it, because you can.
If you are game enough, grab a spark plug lead with it unplugged and engine running, SAME feeling I bet.
That clear cap may be the root cause also, they reeked havoc with the Hot Rod crowd down here in the '70's, sparks went in all directions. Looked awesome, worked crap.
Run the engine in the DARK and look for the light display.
I reckon you got HEI Hi-Voltage feed back.
Check the engine EARTH strap, put another decent sized strap on it, because you can.
If you are game enough, grab a spark plug lead with it unplugged and engine running, SAME feeling I bet.
That clear cap may be the root cause also, they reeked havoc with the Hot Rod crowd down here in the '70's, sparks went in all directions. Looked awesome, worked crap.
Run the engine in the DARK and look for the light display.
#3
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#5
I got the transparent cap when I bought a new distributor for the engine. Never was a lover of those, but since I had it, what the heck.
I changed out the cap this morning and was about to put an additional ground strap on, but my grand kids showed up so that's the end of work until they leave this evening.
After I do that I will see if the problem goes away.
@Carl: I am still some older spark plug wires on the car, since I am going to custom make new ones to run under the exhaust manifold. The old ones are fairly good but I will use my son as a guinea pig tonight. He is young enough to have an 'OH SH.T moment. I have my insulated spark plug wire removal pliers.
@Mikey: I wish it were just 12 volts. This feels like 110 volts or the high tension voltage from the distributor. It only happens when the engine is running.
I changed out the cap this morning and was about to put an additional ground strap on, but my grand kids showed up so that's the end of work until they leave this evening.
After I do that I will see if the problem goes away.
@Carl: I am still some older spark plug wires on the car, since I am going to custom make new ones to run under the exhaust manifold. The old ones are fairly good but I will use my son as a guinea pig tonight. He is young enough to have an 'OH SH.T moment. I have my insulated spark plug wire removal pliers.
@Mikey: I wish it were just 12 volts. This feels like 110 volts or the high tension voltage from the distributor. It only happens when the engine is running.
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Grant Francis (06-28-2016)
#7
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#8
WELL,WELL,WELL. Grant was on the money with his diagnosis.
It was that darn transparent distributor cap I got with the new distributor. I started the car and had my guinea pig (son) put one hand on the cap and touch the body of the car and he got zapped, I laughed and he was not a happy camper.
I swapped it out for the original grey cap and I can put my hand on the cap and no voltage leaking thru the cap. No more high voltage inside the car.
For the hell of it, I reinstalled the transparent cap and I started to get zapped again.
My question is that with the transparent cap on and the engine running, I was able to work within the engine bay, specifically on the accelerator cable, the kickdown cable and carburetor adjustment without getting shocked but if I went into the car and touched the gear shifter, ignition key or any metal component and grounded myself I would get zapped. Path of least resistance? I guess.
Darn those transparent caps.
It was that darn transparent distributor cap I got with the new distributor. I started the car and had my guinea pig (son) put one hand on the cap and touch the body of the car and he got zapped, I laughed and he was not a happy camper.
I swapped it out for the original grey cap and I can put my hand on the cap and no voltage leaking thru the cap. No more high voltage inside the car.
For the hell of it, I reinstalled the transparent cap and I started to get zapped again.
My question is that with the transparent cap on and the engine running, I was able to work within the engine bay, specifically on the accelerator cable, the kickdown cable and carburetor adjustment without getting shocked but if I went into the car and touched the gear shifter, ignition key or any metal component and grounded myself I would get zapped. Path of least resistance? I guess.
Darn those transparent caps.
The following 5 users liked this post by sanchez:
alynmurray (06-29-2016),
Grant Francis (06-28-2016),
hooter (06-29-2016),
jagent (06-28-2016),
Mikey (06-28-2016)
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Grant Francis (06-29-2016)
#12
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