Any tips on removing the rear silencers? Im trying to get to the last bolt to drop the tank, I have removed the u shackle, hanger mount, pryed a little on the flange and have been hitting it with a hammer to try and get it to slide off, not moving at all.

 

Got it off, here's what i did spread the split flange as much as i could, took a pip wrench and turned the silencer around back and fourth a couple times, then screwed the tailpipe back in, have a friend pull and twist that while you hammer or pry the flange, after the fact i found that if you drop the heat shield down you can reach the bolt, you cant see anything but there was just enough room to squeeze my air rachet in there and take the bolt off. Anyone have any input on seperating the filler top? I took the 4 flat head screws off, but the cap is not lifting? Perhaps you have to give it a good yank? Just dont want to break anything since parts are scarce. Thanks

 

On my Series III I was worried too. I removed all the fasteners, and it would not budge. I double checked the manuals - and on my S3 - that is all there was. If this filler cap has been on there forever - as mine were - it seems as if they are welded in place. The bottom line is that the tank is steel, the filler cap assy is aluminum, and they corrode. Also - the only thing between the filler assy and the tank is two o-rings. I ended up using a block of wood on the wing - ENSURE you dont bend ANYTHING - and a crowbar to get it moving. Once it released some WD-40 down the sides - and it popped off.

 

I have some ides developed in practice for dealing with rusty exhaust pipes. But, in most cases, I was not concerned with the health of the thing, as my intentions were to replace.

If the joint is secured by the u bolt things the pipes are forever deformed and destruction is inevitable. If not squeezed too tight, heat from a torch of some kind will burn the rust and ease getting them to part. If there is a slit in the female end, inserting sharp tool to peel away sides of the split lessen the friction and the force required. Twisting with a chain wrench as well as pulling does a lot. I've never had much luck with the petrol based penetrants.

In early day, a chisel and hammer did wonders. Hack saw if there was working room.

In latter days, my acetylene torch or reciprocating saw made short work of getting unwanted piped out the way to make room for fresh steel.

The back resonators were replaced in my car in the past. Small glass packs in lieu of the chambered ones. Alas, the things are welded in place. one by muffler shop, I am sure. And, much later when I needed a different system, a nearby shop made one up for me. Gasketed fittings at each ends, but welded cats in the runs. So, if eer, I need to redo th resonators, it I no decision to mull over, just cut them out!!!

Carl

 

Awesome advice JagCad and Ahabiam, I was able to get the cap loose with a lot of prying wd40 and twisting back and fourth, here's a pic of the rust that came out of one tank just by shaking it. I just bought the car and the previous owner lived by the water and parked it under a pine tree for the last 3 years! Such a shame, Hopefully I get it running soon

 

Your off to a great start. Getting clean fuel is key.

 

Having to deal with exhaust and a IRS is a pain...I will always modify them
now and run it under the IRS, put the mufflers into the spot used by
the Jag resonators and will use ball type connectors before and aft in the future....

You keep the car long enough and you will be back into the rear brakes, differential or gas tanks...make it easy on your self and others...