I bet it does have to do with the hole for the trip counter button. Although I have seen holes drilled through glass and then beveled, it must be expensive.

 

I was looking at my empty speedometer orifice on the way back from dropping it at the repairers and it suddenly dawned on me why the rotation would be different for LHD and RHD cars (to be confirmed from above apparently)

When you look at the mounting it has pairs of notches that the brass lugs on the speedo case pass thru. The large notch is to pass the speedo through, the slightly smaller notch is where the brass lug rests to locate is positively after the push>turn>release thing.

When they were changing the cars LHD>RHD this panel did not just shift from left to right, but (I think) was flipped over so the mounting to the console and the door would still be correct. Flipping mean the notches are reversed and the guage rotation will be in the opposite direction between LHD and RHD.

Going to post some pics tommorow of the guage mount close up so future tinkerers have a better idea how little you have to turn the gauge to release it.

 

Oooo! That was good. Nice to be able to think outside the box.

Not the same topic but strongly relating to - when I removed my speedometer gauge it had a very deteriorated big O ring to cushion it from the wood. My tach didn't have it, presumably lost in the past. I don't see this O ring in the parts manual, but even if I did, chances are no one has them. Anybody have any ideas how to acquire a pair of them?

 

Try Grainger. They sell different types of o-rings sizing from 1/8" to 20+" OD.
Go on the Grainger website and type in your size.

 

it is a 1/16 or thinner o ring with squared sides but any rounded o ring will work. I know where to get them for 45 cents each. When I get a chance I will go get a few if I remember to bring a calliper. They are available in black or brick red. The brick red ones look better but yellow ones would be nicer.

 

Pic of speedo removed showing the brass lug (one of three) that needs to pass through the mounting plate




Close up of cut outs in dash mounting plate. The speedo lugs sit in the smaller cut out (lower in the pic) and the need to rotate the speedo just enough to move the lug the the larger cut out where the lug will pass through.

 

You can see the O ring I mentioned in the above pic. It's thinner than the typical O ring.

 

This ring must be used to cushion the instrument in the panel and provide some resistance for the locking tangs to remain engaged. Try a thin rubber band.

 

Jose, this is priceless advice. Working on this tonight. Had no problem disengaging the speedo but a little trouble with the turn signals bulb/housings? 71 'Series 1. Haven't yet tried the tach as I cant even get my fingers around it as it is pretty crowded on that side. Has anyone posted a sequence for removal of the instrument panels etc. for wood refinishing?

 

So for a RHD, it will be a clock-wise turn to disengage?

 

So for a RHD, it will be a clock-wise turn to disengage?

 

you can turn it either way but counterclockwise seems to work best. Remember to push the tachometer in by its frame then turn it.

if you cannot seem to move it, the rubber ring is probably causing it to stick, so try pushing in and rotating either way to unstick it. Do not push on the glass.

David of Everyday XJ says to apply duct tape over the frame to get leverage.

 

I have to put on "rubber" shop gloves to get enough grip to turn these; first pushing pretty hard to release the locking studs and then push/turn to the Left. The Speedo/Tach is then popped out by the spring so you can grab it.
(';')

 

I agree with Elinor. They sell cheap gloves with rubber palm and fingers that are really grippy. Great for working with glass or carrying furniture. Left hand drive cars (U.S.) you turn counterclockwise to remove but I have been told that Right hand drive cars are the opposite.

Jeff

 

DBear you asked about dashboard removal for wood refinishing. Here is a video. I also have one on my channel for Speedo removal and the trip computer panel.

Jeff

 

Thank you so much! Although not exactly like the Series 1 it is showing me some hopeful shortcuts and also the complexity of it all. Hard enough coming out I cant imagine going back in with a fresh finish!! Any leads on folks who refurbish crash pads?

 

So, in the interest of not making my life harder and breaking things unnecessarily, I have these two connections, possibly turn signal indicators that don't simply come out. One has the lead to a small fitting that already sits proud and both have the feeling of springs inside. Any techniques welcome!!

 

I sprayed some WD40 or something like that, and gently twisted anti clockwise with some mulit grips and the signal connector popped out.
Having had to take out my speedo a few times its becomes a lot easier, including taking out and connecting the signal connector ( I can now remove with my hands without mulitgrips).

 

They will come out, apply steadily increasing firm pressure side to side. When you get one out you'll see why they can be stubborn. They go in just as hard.

Dave

 

Thank you both, tomorrow nights mission.