Starting sound insulation in Series 1 XJ
#1
Starting sound insulation in Series 1 XJ
I already have it installed in the drivers door, but today I took out the drivers side carpet and matting, gas pedal and Mustang dead pedal to clean and coat the floors.
Squirted rust remover on the gas pedal nuts and they came right off! Vacuumed the floor and sprayed Rust Preventer that will turn black overnight.. when dry tomorrow I will start the process of adding the Be-Quiet sound insulation from the front firewall all the way to the top of the package tray. It is so nice to have
a rust free CA car - my first Jag was a '74 SII from Colorado with major rust problems...
The next day will be the other side of the cars turn... it is time consuming but the end result is really worth the work. Expense for two boxes of the
sound material is less than $300 USD.
I will use the leftover stuff in the trunk and on the bottom of the trunk lid before covering it with door panel material like a VDP. I will also recover all the side panels and floor of the trunk with good looking black material with extra fancy stitching and heat created grooves.. It has all the S3 VDP sound insulation pieces installed already.
The insulation was already installed on the engine firewall side before installing the new engine.
Did this to my old ford F150 4X4 and '72 Jag XJ and it made the vehicles much quieter and cooler.. with the insulation you are able to hear the music/sounds and carry on conversation at normal volume.
New carpets, headliner and a recovered center console to follow. Final step will be a BRG bare metal repainting...
Squirted rust remover on the gas pedal nuts and they came right off! Vacuumed the floor and sprayed Rust Preventer that will turn black overnight.. when dry tomorrow I will start the process of adding the Be-Quiet sound insulation from the front firewall all the way to the top of the package tray. It is so nice to have
a rust free CA car - my first Jag was a '74 SII from Colorado with major rust problems...
The next day will be the other side of the cars turn... it is time consuming but the end result is really worth the work. Expense for two boxes of the
sound material is less than $300 USD.
I will use the leftover stuff in the trunk and on the bottom of the trunk lid before covering it with door panel material like a VDP. I will also recover all the side panels and floor of the trunk with good looking black material with extra fancy stitching and heat created grooves.. It has all the S3 VDP sound insulation pieces installed already.
The insulation was already installed on the engine firewall side before installing the new engine.
Did this to my old ford F150 4X4 and '72 Jag XJ and it made the vehicles much quieter and cooler.. with the insulation you are able to hear the music/sounds and carry on conversation at normal volume.
New carpets, headliner and a recovered center console to follow. Final step will be a BRG bare metal repainting...
Last edited by Roger Mabry; 05-19-2015 at 06:20 PM.
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smith356 (05-20-2015)
#2
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Upon your recommendation, Roger, I put this stuff on all surfaces I could get to in my car over this past winter. I was Very surprised how easily it worked into All the little nooks and crannies, and sticks to almost Anything!
There was already nearly an inch of insulation, padding and carpet on the floors and tunnel and we could carry on conversation Much easier than in the Windstar van.
I'm anxious to know how much quieter the car will be now, especially as there was virtually no sound deadening in the back except for carpet padding. I removed the seat and covered ALL metal surfaces with B-Quiet. I hope that takes care of the dull roar from behind.
You can be sure if I have to take the doors apart the inside will be covered too. I can only imagine how quiet it will be with BOTH sides of the front and back bulkheads covered!
I was also surprised how far one roll went. I bought 3 just to be on the safe side and still have 2 unopened boxes left!!
Thank you so much for the recommendation.
(';')
There was already nearly an inch of insulation, padding and carpet on the floors and tunnel and we could carry on conversation Much easier than in the Windstar van.
I'm anxious to know how much quieter the car will be now, especially as there was virtually no sound deadening in the back except for carpet padding. I removed the seat and covered ALL metal surfaces with B-Quiet. I hope that takes care of the dull roar from behind.
You can be sure if I have to take the doors apart the inside will be covered too. I can only imagine how quiet it will be with BOTH sides of the front and back bulkheads covered!
I was also surprised how far one roll went. I bought 3 just to be on the safe side and still have 2 unopened boxes left!!
Thank you so much for the recommendation.
(';')
#3
Be sure to cover the trunk area as well
LnrB - you are welcome.. glad it worked out for you too...
I found in the other Jag, covering the whole trunk area and rear side of the of rear seat panel in the trunk helped a lot.
Put it all over the floor area, it sticks to the wood pieces easily... this time I will put small pieces under the trunk lid cover (that I took out of a Series
3 Sovereign)... I will make one like it for my car...
Both of these cars have the "rear hat" covered up in the package trays to stop the flow of air through the car. I do not think cooling air with our anemic AC systems is helped by being pulled out of the car... same with heat when needed. So sealing the rear tray up with sound insulation helps.
Series 1 XJ's have working wing windows and pull vents on each side to allow any needed outside air into the car...plus my cars have modified
center vents below the front window that allow air to now be directed to the side vents as well.
I found in the other Jag, covering the whole trunk area and rear side of the of rear seat panel in the trunk helped a lot.
Put it all over the floor area, it sticks to the wood pieces easily... this time I will put small pieces under the trunk lid cover (that I took out of a Series
3 Sovereign)... I will make one like it for my car...
Both of these cars have the "rear hat" covered up in the package trays to stop the flow of air through the car. I do not think cooling air with our anemic AC systems is helped by being pulled out of the car... same with heat when needed. So sealing the rear tray up with sound insulation helps.
Series 1 XJ's have working wing windows and pull vents on each side to allow any needed outside air into the car...plus my cars have modified
center vents below the front window that allow air to now be directed to the side vents as well.
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smith356 (05-20-2015)
#4
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Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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#5
#6
Did add under the headliner
I did add the insulation under the headliner - '72 car has a sun roof... it is also under the upholstered panel that moves with the sun roof panel.
Since no sound measurements were made before or after, I am only "guessing" but it is much quiet(er) inside.
'72 S1 now has two amps, twelve (12) speakers so the sound is now controlled by the Kenwood unit, not the outside noises... sounds pretty good.
Hard to tell with the doors but I figured having it inside would not hurt anything... has to help "a little". They were apart for the total repainting
job - so why not?
Since no sound measurements were made before or after, I am only "guessing" but it is much quiet(er) inside.
'72 S1 now has two amps, twelve (12) speakers so the sound is now controlled by the Kenwood unit, not the outside noises... sounds pretty good.
Hard to tell with the doors but I figured having it inside would not hurt anything... has to help "a little". They were apart for the total repainting
job - so why not?
Last edited by Roger Mabry; 05-20-2015 at 09:09 AM.
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Doug (05-20-2015)
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