Steering wheel off center
 

When my car is pointed straight down the road, the steering wheel is slightly turned to the right, like at, say 1 o clock. How can I remove the wheel, turn it perfectly to 12 noon and re attach it?

RE: Steering wheel off center
 

YOU DONT THE TOE SETTING ON THE TIE RODS NEED TO BE ADJSUTED EQUAL AMOUNTS TO CENTER THE WHEEL WITHOUT CHANGING THE TOE. OR YOU CAN LOOK AT WHAT I TOLD JVEGAS LAST NIGHT TO DO IN HIS THREAD FOR THE SAME ISSUE

RE: Steering wheel off center
 

here'sone way todo it:

0) drive and then park the car with the front wheels as straight ahead as possible, on a level surface.

1) removetwo phillips screws on the back of the steering wheelto release the front horn cover,

2) pull/pry the front cover carefully off the wheel,

3) you will see a cream-color plastic "nut" that needs to be loosened very carefully with a
socket but no ratchet, only holding and turning the socket with your hands. When completely
loosened, pull it from the inner steering column and you'll see it has a long stem. That is the horn contact and you do not want it to break, ever. I don't remember the size of the nut.

4) with a 1-1/8" socket, 3" extension, and a ratchet, (preferably a ½" drive ratchet),turn the nut counterclockwise while holding the steering wheel with your knees, until fully loosened. Remove the nut and washer from inside the steering wheel.

5) gently grab and rock the steering wheel from the north and south, and from east and west until it snaps off the spline.

6) put it back onmore or less where it should be, then go driving again making sure you do not pull on the steering wheel while driving, in any case you want to push it forward as you drive around the block. This is very dangerous, so you need to be fully concentrated.

7) observe the centering, and if it needs any fine tuning, stop the carkeeping thefront wheels straight ahead, pull thesteering wheel slowly because you might only need to move it one way or the other by as little as 1 spline to achieve the perfect alignment.

8) when you are satisfied, go back home again pushing forward on the steering wheel as you drive.


NOTE: this may resolve the steering wheel being off center, but the procedure begins at the rack, the rack needs to be centered first, then the front wheels aligned, then the steering wheel is aligned last.

Centeringthe steering wheel onlyis a cosmetic fix, in other words, if the rack is not centered, the steering column is not centered either, and the effect will be that it takes more turns of the steering wheel to turn to one side, for example to the Right, than it will take to turn to the Left.

Centering the rack is a different procedure and there are a number of caveat emptors to follow.

Jose

RE: Steering wheel off center
 

Or take the adjustment at the coupling down by the floorboard. A little awkward, never it tried it myself but others do it that way.

Brutal's method is the best and proper way.

Lots of people remove and refit the wheel....I've done it myself. Problem is, after this has been done a couple times by different people the turn signal cancelling mechanism canget all out-of-phase, so the you gotta go back in and reset it as well.

Cheers
DD

1965 s-type
 

Hi Jose - have you ever removed the steering wheel on your 65 s-type ? I don`t seem how to do it (have a 66 3,8s).

hi Bjorn, yes, I have, it's easier than the XJ.

Same thing, park the car with the front wheels straight ahead, remove two or 4 screws on the back of the black horn cover, remove cover, then with a 1" socket, 3" inch extension bar, and a ½" or a 3/8" drive ratchet, loosen the nut counterclockwise with one hand, while holding the wheel with the other hand.

before I remove the wheel I use a mechanic's scribing tool and scratch a straight line on the splined shaft and on the steering wheel, so when I put it back, it will go exactly where it was.

once the nut and washer are removed, you pull the steering wheel with both hands jiggling it from east to west, and north to south and viceversa until it comes off. Remember these old Jaguar wheels are coated with a 1950's product called "Bakelite" and they are delicate. I'll add a few pictures later.

Thanks Jose. The car is currently beeing restored - and the steeringwheel has given some headace. The "bakelitt" is known to be pretty weak, so we will have to be carefull. Pictures will be great. Thanks.

It's a good idea to leave the centre nut on by a few threads when pulling and tugging the steering wheel, saves the steering wheel hitting you in the face!!!!
When you got it centered wind it to one lock the the other counting the number of turns. This will give you an idea of if you need to have the tracking reset to get the rack central.

good tips, I assumed his wheel was already centered, more or less, because it never is perfectly centered, if you know what I mean.

Bjorn, I have a complete 1964 S type steering wheel in nice condition if you need one; if you post a picture of yours, I can tell you if mine is in better condition. I also have the black plastic horn cover with original screws. The chrome claxon piece needs rechroming.

I installed a 15" leather "Tourist Trophy" steering wheel sold by Moss motors, because I don't like the 17" original wheel, too big, makes me feel like I'm steering with a large pizza.
what are you using to replace the heater valve?

Hi Jose. Thanks for posting. I have an original wheel with defect (broken) chrome horn handle (below the center of the wheel). Im trying to get hold on the chrome horn handle these days. The condition of the wheel is pretty good (the plastic covering the jaguar in the centre has got some suntan...dry plastic, somewhat cracked). I don`t have a pic - the car is 150 km away (to a friend). I drive original on every part due even if I do agree on the pizzastyle of the 17-wheel (and thin). My e-mail is (odevik@gmail.com) - I could be interested in the wheel (if the chromeparts/horn are ok).

And - I have not replaced the heater valve.

ok, I'll send you pictures of the steering wheel via e-mail;
the chrome claxon handle is solid but it needs rechroming, the black plastic horn cover is not cracked. It has the original horn Push and spring; The growler emblem is not in good condition.

if your Heater Valve is good, then don't replace it, if it starts to leak through the weep hole, then the diaphragm is bad. There is an inexpensive Heater Valve substitute available used in the 1965 Ford Galaxy, (Normally Closed heater valve), that works fine with the 1963-1968 Jaguar S type. I have one installed in my S type. It has 5/8" ports just like the original valve.

Just straightened mine and everyone loves pix. Hardest part was digging through my tools to find a short enough stubby straight slot.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...8011f5a21d.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...2ecd2b9fc5.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...ef057233b0.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...12d0259e4d.jpg