After finally getting the center console out and removing the carpets, pads, old coins and buttons I got to the real ugliness. I knew the floorboards would be bad and thought it might creep up into the toe boards and transmission tunnel but it looks worse than i had hoped. I have new floorboards and can source the toe lick panel but cannot seem to find anyone who deals in the transmission tunnel. Any help here would be totally appreciated. I think this also solves my dilemma on whether to pull the engine and tranny! In for a penny, in for a pound!! Hopefully will uncover the passenger damage today.

 

Question for you, Did the A/C drains work? While you have it opened up, Pour water into the grille in front of windscreen to see if you have a leaking plenum box. Check other side of car, Same area.

Thank you.

Larry Louton

 

Oh Dear!!
Mine wasn't Nearly so bad as this, although bad enough I had to put in a new floor.
Sort of gives one pause about jacking up the ends and opening both doors.
(';')

 

Oh me !! Can you remove all the rot and have any solid metal to weld in new and used healthy steel? It has been many decades since I saw a floor that bad.

An entre floor and tunnel from David Boger from a rust free car. Everydayxj in the Carolinas. Not an impossible distance..

Carl

 

DBaer, find another body. Not worth spending the time or money on fixing that kind of rot.

 

Jose, i hear you but good bodies for Series 1 don't seem to be plentiful? Is the car not worth saving?

 

DBaer, it looks like a nightmare re-manufacture to me. Too rotted. Let's find you a better car. They do exist in a lot better shape.

Western cars don't rot like that. California, Arizona climate preserves cars.

 

Sorry to say this but like Jose said it looks like a $$$ nightmare. You would almost have to make a new bottom half for the car. It looks like someone already used fiberglass to cover the rust which just made it get even worse. You have to cut back the rot until you get to solid un-rusted steel, and I'm willing to bet the more you uncover the more rust you'll find. I've only be working on / looking for Series 3 but I'm sure you can find a better Series 1 to start with with. What's still good on this car, interior, engine, etc ? Find a solid body and transfer your good parts to it. I have not done much welding but did do all the measuring, planning and cutting to replace pans on a early corvette which is similar, you have to have good structure to weld to get acceptable results.

Good luck, I'll keep a look out in my area for a better 1
Cheers,
Brian

 

My series 1 was as rotten as yours, at least in this area. In fact, the complete driver footwell was about gone.

For me, I don't really care if it's 'original' so any piece of sheet metal will do to fix this. In fact, my footwell is made of what once was a series 3 xj6 door as that was what I had at the time.

It's a bit hard to see on this picutere, but see for yourself how much was gone:



Anyways, I would suggest: get a piece of sheet metal and get welding!

 

Wilfred, I love your enthusiasm! I will probably continue the dismantle and see just how extensive it is. If it is truly terminal than the rebuilt engine and transmission need to come out anyways which will give me great access to repair if I go that route. I am leaning toward tackling it!

 

DBaer, if you have the skillz to do this, with your positive attitude that's going to be a nice car.

 

Greg, thank you for the thumbs up. Searching some tunnel parts out now. Might have to be a little creative on this one!

 

I see some sheet steel in your future, and LOTS of welding.
At least you have mostly simple curves. None of that compound stuff there.
(';')

 

Contact Wolf Steel Restorations at alfaparts.net for the floors and for the vertical sides, you're going to need a way of bending a heavier gauge metal into steps. Then a hoop for the tunnel itself.

Thank you.

Larry Louton

 

Thank you Larry, I have the floor pans and see that SNG has the toe kicks. It appears the series 1 has the weird step at the bottom/sides of the tunnel while the later series go to flat flanges. David Boger has a series 3 tunnel that I might have to do like you suggest and just fabricate the bends at the bottom. Trying to piece it together!