Valve Cover Gasket Change
 

Hi all!

Planning on changing the valve cover gaskets and was wondering if there is a walk through on this forum?

I did a search but i couldnt pull anything up.

I have found these gaskets. Are they decent??

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jag...gasket-eac5039

What else would i need to accomplish the job?

Thank you all!

Chris

Hard to tell from the pic but that sorta looks like a cork gasket. Most people prefer paper.

If the mating surfaces (both head and cam cover) are pristine then paper gaskets without any sealer will usually be fine. If the surfaces are not perfect (few are) you might consider a bit of sealer. Everyone has their favorite. I like Permatex #2. Either way the surface must be spotlessly clean.

You'll want new copper washers for under the corn nuts. Or, anneal the old ones before reusing.

If you have air injection you'll have to remove a bit of the plumbing to remove the LH cam cover. No big deal.

Do not over-tighten. I use just a 'four finger pull' amount of force against a 6" long, 1/4" drive ratchet

You'll want a bead of sealer where the half-moon seal fit into the cylinder head.

That's all I can think of at the moment

Others will chime in.

Cheers
DD

hi Doug

will this do?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBM6NG/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_J4H9BbMW6MEWF

Isbit s bug deal that the gaskets may be cork??? They are OEM apparently.

That's the stuff !

I avoid it, personally. I just haven't had best results, and I'm not alone. I suggest seeking out paper gaskets

Cheers
DD

great thanks Doug

and have a great thanks giving!

Google "EAC5039 Jaguar".

I recall the light-greenish type being good; I think that's what Jaguar is selling as "OEM" these days. The original OEM supplier was Payen but I don't think they actually have a marketing or distributing scheme in the USA....but Jag-specific vendors in the USA often have Payen gaskets.

Cheers
DD

Doug's pretty much 'on the button' with these things.. I always found the main place for leaks was the holding down studs and the domed nuts, not the gaskets. Even if I annealed the copper washers they still seemed to leak. Eventually, I used to use a bit of PTFE plumbers tape over the threads before I put the washers and nuts on. This seemed to reduce oil leakage, but how and why it worked I'm not sure. It probablly created a barrier before the oil got to the washers.

I recently did mine.

Cork vs paper gaskets notwithstanding, the big issue is getting the factory gasket off of the head surface.

I used a gasket scraper with a razor blade, being very careful not to gouge the aluminum surface. Permatex makes a gasket remover that is supposed to soften the shellac based gasket cement - but it was only marginally effective when I tried it and I got best results after leaving it to soak for a while. I'd guess it took me 3-4 hours per cover to get the old material off the head. After I got most of the gasket material off, I used a grey scotchbrite pad to finish cleaning by hand. I resisted putting a scotchbrite pad in the die grinder out of fear of gouging the aluminum head.

Don't forget you need the halfmoon/D seal at the back of the covers too

Hey!

Great info. Will keep it all in mind. I am supposed to be getting the gaskets this week. Currently have a cold and working in a cold garage is probably not the best for me right now but for sure near end of week.

Do i need a half moon for both sides? Not checked yet.

Cheers!

Hi Doug

The gaskets are coming in this week, apparently. So will try and do the work near end of week.

Was wondering if just applying some sealant all the way around the cover is sufficient and not the gasket while on the valve block?

Thank you!